FTBR front and rear diff bushings

blwn89gt

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Noticed the stupid rear end cover is dripping fluid on my 03 the other day when I went to push the car out of the garage to get it towed back to the shop for the motor to get put back in. Figured once the cars running and good I’ll get it home and tackle this issue. Has anyone here done the bushings themself ? I want to do the bushings, ford racing cover and that support that goes on the cover all at once.


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gmtech

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If you do the cover, no need for a cover brace. I did the solid mounts, FTBR front brace(I have an 01), and the ford racing cover all at once. Well worth the money, I experienced more diff noise after the install but livable for sure. I lowered the front of the subframe, removed the catback, removed the ABS sensors and disconnected the upper A arms to move the axles out of the way. Used my low profile trans jack to help position the diff for removal and install. Not a bad job honestly.
 

01yellercobra

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I've done it s few times. I drop the brace under the pinion to get the clearance to drop the diff out.
 

blwn89gt

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I want to get the ford racing cover that’s milled down to fit that FTBR mount that goes on the front of the cover, I figured once the cars back from the shop I got to break it in before it gets the full dyno tune so I’ll just knock it out over a weekend. I had the cover leak in the past and I’m done with dealing with it.


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blwn89gt

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When is the lowering mount required? What does it fix? Is it just for extremely lowered cars that need extra pinion angle adjustment?

I’m honestly not sure. My car is on h&r race springs and sits pretty friggin low, but I’d rather do it now and not be doing this again down the road.


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01yellercobra

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The consensus is to get the pinion as high as possible to correct the drive line angle. Bruce recommends his drop mount along with stacking the aluminum bushings so the pinion is as high as possible. I had the aluminum bushings for a while and had them stacked up. But I put poly back in because I got tired of the gear noise. I didn't notice any difference. But I don't track the car or anything.
 

P49Y-CY

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When is the lowering mount required? What does it fix? Is it just for extremely lowered cars that need extra pinion angle adjustment?

ride height doesn't affect pinion angle on an irs car.

like @01yellercobra said the purpose of it is to acheive the desired goal of a 0* driveline angle, meaning that the block face/trans and the pinion yoke flange are parallel. it's pretty far off on a factory terminator. there is plenty of info available about it on both the ftbr and mm websites. mm was first to introduce that lowering bushing (along with the convex/concave front bushings), but i have the ftbr stuff because i felt that theirs was better quality and better engineered overall.

and there are plenty of us on here who have done these ourselves. i did the full ftbr kit (cradle, uca, lca, diff bushings) on both my cars on my back. it's a lot of work, but it's fun work.

it definitely increases the cabin noise level drastically. but in a good way (to me). plus the car feels, rides, handles, and launches so much better. best of luck with it.
 

blwn89gt

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Is the noise from the delrin bushings that bad ? I just don’t want to put poly bushings in and then have to change them out again because I should have done delrin


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01yellercobra

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I don't think he does delrin for the diff. I ran the aluminum because it came in the kit that the PO included with my car. Bruce likes aluminum because it won't melt on the track. Which apparently the poly can do. I don't race my car on the track so I'm not worried about melting anything.

I had to pull my diff apart and I really tried to get everything back where it was, but I missed a little. I don't remember being to bad before then.
 

blwn89gt

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Ok I assumed it was delrin like the other bushings. I drive my car on the street and I get on it here and there but no track. I just know that my cover has a slight leak and I wanna do new bushings and cover at the same time and not be doing it again.


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hotcobra03

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I opted not to do cover,,
It does not stop it from leaking again.

But to seal cover it can be done in car. Vs dropping rear out completely

Just pull cat back ,let driveshaft hang

That lower cross member on the front of diff has to come off. Just remove nuts and back bolt out till member moves to get out.

Rear will move forward enough to get cover past ring gear

Also if you haven't. Front of subframe bolts must be changed to proper 9/16-14mm bolt,,


I did front poly. Never had to change rear
 

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