FRPS questions

[ported 04]

With a blown FRPS will the car start to run bad right away or will it only die after driving it for a while? And if the car dies then doesn't start with the FRPS plugged in, then I go and un-plug the FRPS and it still doesn't start, does that mean the FRPS is not blown?
I didn't really want to start a new thread but my other thread wasn't getting any responses.

Thanks in advance
:beer:

 

[03yellow]

The car should start with the FRPS unplugged.
Most of the time when the frps blows the car wont start until you unplug it.

After reading your last post I dont think its your FRPS. But go buy one already:bash:..... at least youll know one way or the other. :idea:

 

[ported 04]

Well if it's not the FRPS I don't want to go spend $80 for no reason at all. I guess my problem isn't the FRPS because it will start fine with it still plugged in. And drive fine until it gets hot then it will lurch forward really bad then just die when going to a stop.

 

[03cobra283]

Whats the problem? It sounds like the car runs but, when it gets hot its sluggish? Or does it not want to idle after that?

 

[ported 04]

The car runs but when I drive it for about 20 minutes, or whenever it gets hot, it dies. Sometimes it will re-start and sometimes it won't. It dies when I let off the gas, if I stay on the gas it won't die.

I know it's not the IAC or anything with the tune. And I don't think it's the FRPS.

 

[03yellow]

wonder if you could run by RPM outlet there in houston and talk to them. They are poor on customer service but the may help pinpoint the issue to sell you the part.
Also if your local they are easier to deal with. they are pretty nice in person.

 

[ported 04]

Dang I didn't know RPM outlet was in Houston! Maybe i'll take my truck there and talk to them to see what they think it could be.

 

[ported 04]

I talked to Daniel at RPM outlet over their IM thing on their website. He said it costs $95 and hour and he can hook up my cobra to a computer to see what the problem is.

 

[.n0b.]

5 hours later....OHHHH couldn't find nothing. good luck.



lol that would suck. interested to see what it is though...

 

[ported 04]

^Yeah that's what i'm afraid of. Houston Performance doens't charge by the hour so i'll probably take my car to them. Plus HP has done ALL the work to the car.

 

[03cobra283]

Yea stick with one performance shop and get all your work done by them. But as for RPM hooking a computer to it and being able to diagnois right away doesnt seem to be right. I think your best bet would be to datalog the car and see what its doing before and after the car get hot to see what changes. After it shuts off does it have to completely cool before it will start again?

 

[ported 04]

Yea stick with one performance shop and get all your work done by them. But as for RPM hooking a computer to it and being able to diagnois right away doesnt seem to be right. I think your best bet would be to datalog the car and see what its doing before and after the car get hot to see what changes. After it shuts off does it have to completely cool before it will start again?

Yep i'm just sticking with one shop. After it shuts off and doesn't start up, I have to wait 1 or 2 minutes then it will start.

 

[03cobra283]

Thats odd, can you datalog the car a little to check the parameters?

 

[Melunjin]

My FRPS failure had the EXACT same symptoms- It would run and die within minutes and wouldn't restart for 10 or 15 minutes and then it would fire right up. It really boggled my mind because this happened to me before I was aware of this Termi problem. I replaced the TPS first -no joy-It also happened a day or so after I washed the engine bay so I chased a false lead thinking I had moisture in something important- Like I said I had the exact same symptoms-I would spend the 80 bucks and see if it fixes it and if not you'll do yourself a HUGE favor just having an extra one around. kinda like having an extra IC pump

 

[ported 04]

^Your cobra would run good for 10+ minutes then die? Or would it die after running it for a couple minutes?

 

[ported 04]

Thats odd, can you datalog the car a little to check the parameters?

No I can't datalog..

 

[03yellow]

Go to ford and buy an FRPS. If it dosent work then take it back.
Cant believe your still messing around with this.

 

[ported 04]

Can I take back the FRPS to the dealership if it's not the problem?

 

[ported 04]

Well I bought a new FRPS at the dealer for $107 and installed it. Drove around for about 40 minutes and it was fine. But then I stopped at the enterence of my neighborhoor and it DIED. I had to push it with my 15yr old son and with my 8yr old son steering 1.5 miles! I finally got it into my driveway and waited 10 minutes inside. Went out and it started so I put a fuel pressure guage onto the fuel rail and the PSI was jumping all around. It would jump from 30-40 and when I revved it, it would barely hit 50psi. Also after I shut it off from reading the PSI, it wouldn't re-start and this time when I turned the key on, something from under the hood was making a buzzing noise. It was a box next to the air filter making the buzzing noise and it wouldn't stop. I couldn't see the box but I could feel it. So I hooked up the guage to the rail again and cranked it to look at the PSI, it was at 10.

Would that box making the buzzing noise have something to do with my problem? I'm thinking it's the fuel pumps or the filter...Plz help.

 

[JB]

........Would that box making the buzzing noise have something to do with my problem? I'm thinking it's the fuel pumps or the filter....

Buzzing is the CCRM.

It's a solid-state relay module located inside pass. fender and it supplies power to the FPDM (also PCM, fan & A/C)

Remove inner fender liner to check wiring.......If it's OK, then you'll most likely need to replace the module.

If you have any FPDM mods and/or BAP, check that wiring also because otherwise you might fry the new CCRM.

.