Front wheel bearings

[sonic cobra]

What are you guys doing for front wheel bearings?
The original bearings lasted 60,000 miles and 14 track events, now I'm using Ford Hubs and replacing them every year! Especially the left side. Three days at VIR and 6000 street miles and they are starting to moan already!

 

[gcassidy]

I do mine every 2~3 years. But my front end doesn't weigh quite as much.

 

[mu22stang]

Are you using new hub nuts each R&R and checking torque before and after every event?

 

[TroyV]

I would replace them in April of every year whether they needed it or not as part of normal maintenance. At least one would always be burnt. I have used the Timkens and Koyos supplied by Ford. None ever lasted as long as the original, which on my Cobra were Timkens of the same part number.

I'm guessing that you are getting faster, and putting more overall stress on the car than before. The burn rate on consumables will always get higher as you get faster.

The other thing that will affect the burn rate on front hubs is the brakes.. If you are not ducting them properly, or are over working them, they will cook that grease in the hubs easily....over time it breaks down and the bearings start to crunch up the races. Sticky tires also has an affect. I think I probably burned up 6 left front hubs in four years.

 

[sonic cobra]

Thanks Guys, Thats pretty much what I figured out but wanted to check with the experts. Thought there might be a ceramic option.
I am getting faster Troy but still not as fast as you and your Cobra were at Shenendoah with SVTOA.
New hub nuts, but i haven't been checking the torque once installed.
So are you guys replacing the entire hub or have you found a way to replace the bearings?

 

[racebronco2]

You can repack the bearings. I've done them twice already. I have only bought one set so far. Go to corners-carvers to get the in depth procedure. Basically you need to repack them before they need replacing, you need to be careful and carefully pry one out at a time and when one side is all removed you can remove the plastic race and then start on the other half. Clean all surfaces and reverse the procedure.

 

[MFE]

Take them apart before they go bad, clean them out, pack them with Redline grease, and re-assemble. Then make damn sure you really get that nut tight.

 

[TroyV]

I guess I could have been more thrifty and repacked them. I just felt like I couldn't trust them after having had them apart, but if you guys are doing it, then it must be pretty reliable.

 

[sonic cobra]

Thanks Guys, I checked out the proceedure on Corner-carvers and its looks doable even for a Klutz like me. Seems the key is replacing the stock grease with some high temp stuff that won't melt away, I ordered the tool to remove the bearings from someone on the site. next will get two new hubs, remove clean and repack the bearings after practicing on the old hubs first. Klutz- remember? Just have to wait till i pay for the new clutch and engine rebuild.

 

[Sirl]

Can you post the part # for the bearings, and removal tool?
Maybe the link to the C-C writeup?

TIA.

I've got 3 inch studs in mine. Hate to have to buy new studs.

 

[sonic cobra]

Time to revisit the front bearings. I have the bearings out of the old hubs and about to order new hubs from Rockauto and repack them with high temp synthetic bearing grease. I notice several hub assemblies available including Timkin and SKF. I've read the Timkin is same as the Ford. But has anyone tried the SKF. I know they are a big supplier to the aircraft industry. I'm wondering if they might work better out of the box, without the bother of repacking.
Anyone have any experience with the SKF bearing assemblies?

 

[KILRSVT]

My left side is starting to moan as well... Are they hard to do?

 

[ac427cobra]

My left side is starting to moan as well... Are they hard to do?

Remove caliper and rotor. Pop the center cap off and remove nut with 36mm socket. Remove old hub, replace with new hub, torque nut to 240-250 lb. ft. and you're good to go.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[sonic cobra]

Strange, my problems always seem to show up on the left side first. I always assumed its cause most of the tracks I go to have mostly right hand turns.
Replacing the hubs is just as easy as indicated in the above post.
Removing the sealed bearings isn't too difficult either and I haven't wrenched on a car since the 60's.
I decided to go with the OEM Ford hubs and repack the bearings before installing. Hope they will last more than one season.

 

[ac427cobra]

Strange, my problems always seem to show up on the left side first. I always assumed its cause most of the tracks I go to have mostly right hand turns.
Replacing the hubs is just as easy as indicated in the above post.
Removing the sealed bearings isn't too difficult either and I haven't wrenched on a car since the 60's.
I decided to go with the OEM Ford hubs and repack the bearings before installing. Hope they will last more than one season.

You are correct in thinking the left side hub gets used up at a 2 or 3-1 pace over the right side hub because the left side is loaded 3 times as much as the right.

But your hubs, particularly Ford hubs, should be lasting at LEAST a year. If not, you're either doing events every weekend or you could be dumping too much brake heat (via the rotor) into the hub causing premature failure. A two pc floating rotor set-up will help to keep heat out of your hub.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[sonic cobra]

Yes, I'm sure my somewhat less than smooth driving ability has a lot to do with it. I've been running brake cooling ducts for many years, but i still tend to use the brakes too much. I've been looking at your two piece rotors for awhile but i just dropped obscene money on new clutch and engine rebuild so I have to be very selsctive with the few dollars I have left.
And thanks ac428 cobra for your always excellent input. I'm trying to do more and more of the work myself and look to the info and videos on your web site often.
Have a happy and prosperous New Year

Paul

 

[Jowsik]

Paul,

Do you want to break your new engine in at VIR the last weekend of the month?

 

[sonic cobra]

Love to Joe but the car is already up on jackstands with most of the front suspension lying on the garage floor waiting for parts. VIR was my last event before the clutch and engine rebuild. I want to make sure everything is sound before I go back there next spring
I'll probably be looking for a little tune up at NJMP march/april then I should be ready for VIR and the Glen

 

[a1yola]

How would one know when it's time to replace the wheel bearings? My car doesnt make any noise that I'm aware of but would it be a good idea to replace them as precaution? My 98 cobra has about 120k on it and from what I know, they're still original. Would stock hibs be ok to use as-is if I ordered them from say, Tousley Ford? Would the grease already on the bearings be sufficient?

how about the rears? Should they be replaced as well? Is it the same...replace the entire hub, or would it be easier to just do the bearings?

 

[ac427cobra]

How would one know when it's time to replace the wheel bearings? My car doesnt make any noise that I'm aware of but would it be a good idea to replace them as precaution? My 98 cobra has about 120k on it and from what I know, they're still original. Would stock hibs be ok to use as-is if I ordered them from say, Tousley Ford? Would the grease already on the bearings be sufficient?

how about the rears? Should they be replaced as well? Is it the same...replace the entire hub, or would it be easier to just do the bearings?

Your front wheel will start to get a little play in it when the bearing is starting to go. If it gets bad enough, it will start groaning when you load the side with the bad bearing. If you want to replace them as a precautionary measure for peace of mind, that is a very common exercise. I like to keep close tabs on them when I work on my brakes but I always carry a spare, sometimes two.

Tousley would be an excellent choice to buy your hubs from. If you have an IRS those rear knuckle bearings are a little more tricky to diagnose. The main thing with them is keeping the halfshaft to hub retaining nuts torqued to 240-250#.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer: