Front and Rear Sway Bars? Or just rears?

[50blackout]

Hey guys, I've been thinking of upgrading the sway bars after I get new shocks for the car to help with handling and body roll, but I'm getting some conflicting information:

I called Steeda and talked to someone who told me that a lot of their customers call in and only get the rear sway bar because a bigger front sway will cause understeer and since these cars have heavy front ends, a bigger front sway bar will only make it worse.

Then I have also read some post from Kelly at BMR who says that he would do a front sway bar before a rear one.

What do you guys think? My car is a track pack mustang with BMR LCA and panhard bar and brace. Would it be ok to just get a rear sway bar or will that just induce a lot more over steer?

Personally, I feel my car has a little bit of understeer because when I come to a corner, I feel I have to turn the steering wheel a little bit more to make sure the front doesn't go off the road or hit a curb. Thanks again guys!!

 

[86Fbody]

What size tires are you running? I personally would do both front and rear and make them adjustable but depending on your front tire size you may end up plowing due to the increased stiffness of the front bar.

 

[DTL]

Put the new shocks on it and see how it behaves. Sway bars are a tuning tool. If the car starts doing something you don't like, stiffer (or softer) bars car help cure it. Be aware, that some adjustable bars, even on their softest setting, are far stiffer than your stock bars. You may end up needing both front and rear, if you change either, to keep the car balanced.

 

[djclark]

I installed the SB041 and SB042 bars couple weeks back. Do both. That and the LCAs/Relocation brackets, made a ton of difference. Both bars on on the first hole. Still on the stock springs/struts/shocks too. Can't wait to install the strange and bar springs.

 

['14 Shelby]

The front end is heavy. There are a lot of factors to consider including tire size and compound. Do both but adjustable. Big difference and I'm still on stock shocks/struts. I went with too much up front and had to 'loosen' it up one hole to get it just right.

 

[BMR Tech]

I always recommend a front bar first, on a mild to stock car.

There are theories....no one is "right". On a stiffer spring car, bars are 100% tuning tool. On a soft spring car, they will add enough rate to improve roll substantially. Ever since we released our SB041....I have gotten guys that I never thought would call BMR, calling me discussing this piece. I had a race team order (10) of them after testing one out on their NASA car. Said car, was tested without a rear sway bar.

The OEM cars come with spring rate bias in the rear, and a massive front bar (for OEM). The front springs are super soft, substantially softer than the rears. The rears also come with a pretty damn big bar already at 24mm. That is crazy, and good for many IMO.

Both bars adjustable makes a great difference....especially when they are tuned such as our 041/042 Combo. As djclark said, they work really well together.

Some say our bars are overkill. Well, who knows that? We didnt want to just make new 11+ bars that matched what everyone else has. We filled a void, and the word is spreading in the competitive handling world. I also heard from a birdie that an OEM bar supplier was considering, and wanted to use a 38mm front bar on select apps from the factory. I suspect in a few years, the 38mm stuff will be common. They work so well.

 

[50blackout]

Thanks for the info guys, I'm keeping my stock track pack springs, so it looks like I will go with the "soft spring, big bar approach".

Also Kelly your TCA019 control arms along with my new Michelin Pilot Super Sports, let me finally the push the gas (wot) in 2nd gear, without vibration (wheel hop) in the back. It felt like the car was going to come apart sometimes with the stock arms and Pirellis.