Ford Racing K-springs (M-5300-K) inside...

[Z25OH]

I have the K springs and no its not needed, and I didnt use one. But if you want the rear to be correctly centered like it was oem, then yes you need one. Mine is visually off to the drivers side. And its noticeable. If you get a panhard bar, you need to make sure the adjuster is in the middle of the bar, skip the bar with the rod ends. The passenger side rod end is boxed in by the mount, and its virtually impossible to properly tighten it after its adjusted. I forget which brand one has the solid end mounts and has the adjuster in the middle of the bar, but thats the one you want. Trust me you will be smacking yourself if you get the other one. While you are at it, you might as well do the lower control arms too. Again, no relocation brackets needed. But if you get those too then they need to be welded on NO QUESTIONS. I have seen them shear off bolts at the track because they were not welded on along with being bolted.

Get this type....

NOT this one....

nice! good info man thnx

 

[Ordie]

Good I was gonna get the right one.. the BMR one, along with an Adjustable Upper Control arm.

Does the BMR rod support make any difference

 

[kingnut]

Great info sic

 

[grnenvy]

Hmm

I agree some what but solid ends are noisey!(NVH) I like bushings in there. A grinded Sears wrench fits fine in the boxed end to tighten but it would be nice if it was in the center. As for the relocation brackets the new design doesn't needed to be welded there plenty strong they have 4 bolt mounting points. If installed properly theres no way they can be ripped out.
BMR sells a high quality set.

I have the K springs and no its not needed, and I didnt use one. But if you want the rear to be correctly centered like it was oem, then yes you need one. Mine is visually off to the drivers side. And its noticeable. If you get a panhard bar, you need to make sure the adjuster is in the middle of the bar, skip the bar with the rod ends. The passenger side rod end is boxed in by the mount, and its virtually impossible to properly tighten it after its adjusted. I forget which brand one has the solid end mounts and has the adjuster in the middle of the bar, but thats the one you want. Trust me you will be smacking yourself if you get the other one. While you are at it, you might as well do the lower control arms too. Again, no relocation brackets needed. But if you get those too then they need to be welded on NO QUESTIONS. I have seen them shear off bolts at the track because they were not welded on along with being bolted.

Get this type....

NOT this one....

 

[SicShelby09]

I agree some what but solid ends are noisey!(NVH) I like bushings in there. A grinded Sears wrench fits fine in the boxed end to tighten but it would be nice if it was in the center. As for the relocation brackets the new design doesn't needed to be welded there plenty strong they have 4 bolt mounting points. If installed properly theres no way they can be ripped out.
BMR sells a high quality set.

I can agree with you, but I have had a few panhard bars with the rod ends, and those go bad much quicker and they rattle like nobodys business at low speeds over bumps. Granted they are easy to replace if they go bad, but chrome moly rod ends that can withstand the beating they would get are not cheap. Like $20 a piece. And you will need to replaced those atleast once a year like I had to on two separate bars I had on my older mustang and shelby. I switched over to the solid ends with the urethane bushings and they were super quiet and never needed to be replaced. Just greased before installation. To each his own, but Im telling you that I know the rod end design is not optimal and myself and a few friends have faught with them over and over. Do what you like, but you cant go wrong with the solid ends. Glad I could help.

 

[Strpperpolef150]

Is it absolutely necessary to get the camber plates? I thought if you dropped lower than 1.5" you'd need them. Aren't there guys on here who were able to adjust the stock alignment normal without them?

Also op how you are liking the ride compared to stock?

 

[scott_0]

^^its been mentioned numerous times in this thread by myself and a few others that camber bolts are a cheaper viable option. I got my 14mm bolts from Napa for a little over $22

 

[Strpperpolef150]

^^its been mentioned numerous times in this thread by myself and a few others that camber bolts are a cheaper viable option. I got my 14mm bolts from Napa for a little over $22

I have camber bolts on my truck so I don't have a problem using those. I just can't justify dropping $300 on camber plates...

My rear fender is an 1nch lower than my front fender on my truck so the car needs a drop bad lol

 

[scott_0]

Id go with the camber bolts if I were you then, the hard core track day/autox guys dont like them but Id say theyre fine for those of us that are into spirited driving