Ford Mustang GT500 Hot Water Bypass Kit by Fischer Motorsports

[Vinnie_B]

Upgrade worth considering for any S197 Shelby's. I will be considering in my future engine build.

Ford Mustang GT500 Hot Water Bypass Kit​

The Hot Water Bypass Kit includes Intake modifications (CNC machining to remove the front and rear cast water necks, Un shrouding of the stock intercooler core, fabrication to install the diverter plate that maintains stock function of the bypass valve and o-ring seal gasket, increases bolt holes to metric 8 clearance size, modification of the rear of the intercooler core to a -16 female rear entry while maintaining the stock front ports for exit of the IC water.)
Front and rear 5 axis CNC billet water necks that o ring seal directly the head using high quality Viton o rings. These maintain steam port exits adding two to the rear water block. We provide the -4AN fittings for these and the 1.125” hose nipples.
Phenolic spacers that drop over the billet water necks and are o-ring sealed to the head. They are heat isolators that prevent engine heat from heating the induction system. The intake system will run warm to the touch as opposed to scorching hot. You will see about a 100F temp drop of the intake system components. Includes fastener that secure these spacers using the stock dowel holes along with two transfer punches for adding two dowel locations to the intake manifold should you choose to do so.
Custom ARP Stainless 8mm Studs with M8 Jet nuts and washers for securing the components and adding a touch of dress up.
FM GT500 Hot Water Bypass Kit pricing is:
Retail: $5,675.00 each
Note: The customer must send us your Intake to be modified.
Please Contact Us for additional details:
1.682.558.9275
[email protected]
Hot Water Bypass Kit Options:

• Polishing the intake is an available option that has proven popular and really improves the look of the intake. Call For Pricing
• Billet -12AN dual IC water outlet that straightens out the water exit from the stock core and eliminates the cast stock outlet. Call For Pricing
• Intake Plenum spacer… this is an aluminum spacer, black anodized, that uses a factory lid gasket. It is 3/8” thick and spaces the floor of the intake lid 3/8” further away from the IC core. This un-shrouds the outlet of the intercooler air for more airflow and less pressure drop and increase the plenum volume for more power. (shown in one pic… black ring between plenum and plenum lid. Pricing: $432.00

https://www.fischermotorsports.com/

https://www.fischermotorsports.com/specialties/ford-mustang-gt500-hot-water-bypass-kit/#

2013-14 Shelby Cooling System


5.8L with Coolant-Cooled Oil Cooler

NOTE: At (100°F) ambient temperature, green arrows indicate coolant temperature below (194°F), amber arrows indicate coolant temperature approximately (194°F), red arrows indicate coolant temperature above (194°F)

5.8L with Air-Cooled Oil Cooler

NOTE: At (100°F) ambient temperature, green arrows indicate coolant temperature below (194°F), amber arrows indicate coolant temperature approximately 90°C (194°F), red arrows indicate coolant temperature above (194°F)

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

interesting but my first thought is - ridiculous. I have a hard time seeing this being worthwhile on the street or drag strip without more data. What comes to mind is extended road course use and even then - maybe

Shows temps above 194 - how far above? Whats the temp delta to stock
Does it actually keep IAT2s any lower?

That's a LOT of money

 

[Vinnie_B]

interesting but my first thought is - ridiculous. I have a hard time seeing this being worthwhile on the street or drag strip without more data. What comes to mind is extended road course use and even then - maybe

Shows temps above 194 - how far above? Whats the temp delta to stock
Does it actually keep IAT2s any lower?

That's a LOT of money

Those are excellent questions and one's consideration that needs to be thought thru with the lack of proven data that I don't personally have access too unfortunately @DSG2003Mach1 . The concept is definitely interesting thou and an option for those who would be interested in trying it out for a cooling/performance option and/or cosmetic looks for the polishing. I think ppl in hotter climates or those with high power output motor builds could possible benefit IMO.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

$5,675?
And you send em your intake?
Ya, data is needed

 

[Vinnie_B]

$5,675?
And you send em your intake?
Ya, data is needed

I'm going to see if I can get Shawn to gives us some feed back on this guys.

 

[manny231988]

Shawn has data with motec and it seems legit I didn’t do this on my project as I’m already deep into my project and just couldn’t swing it, but if I do do it a little later at least I will have motec data for before and after the modification

 

[Vinnie_B]

Shawn has data with motec and it seems legit I didn’t do this on my project as I’m already deep into my project and just couldn’t swing it, but if I do do it a little later at least I will have motec data for before and after the modification

Thanks for the info @manny231988

 

[Poisonous West]

Upgrade worth considering for any S197 Shelby's. I will be considering in my future engine build.

View attachment 1796058

Ford Mustang GT500 Hot Water Bypass Kit​

The Hot Water Bypass Kit includes Intake modifications (CNC machining to remove the front and rear cast water necks, Un shrouding of the stock intercooler core, fabrication to install the diverter plate that maintains stock function of the bypass valve and o-ring seal gasket, increases bolt holes to metric 8 clearance size, modification of the rear of the intercooler core to a -16 female rear entry while maintaining the stock front ports for exit of the IC water.)
Front and rear 5 axis CNC billet water necks that o ring seal directly the head using high quality Viton o rings. These maintain steam port exits adding two to the rear water block. We provide the -4AN fittings for these and the 1.125” hose nipples.
Phenolic spacers that drop over the billet water necks and are o-ring sealed to the head. They are heat isolators that prevent engine heat from heating the induction system. The intake system will run warm to the touch as opposed to scorching hot. You will see about a 100F temp drop of the intake system components. Includes fastener that secure these spacers using the stock dowel holes along with two transfer punches for adding two dowel locations to the intake manifold should you choose to do so.
Custom ARP Stainless 8mm Studs with M8 Jet nuts and washers for securing the components and adding a touch of dress up.
FM GT500 Hot Water Bypass Kit pricing is:
Retail: $5,675.00 each
Note: The customer must send us your Intake to be modified.
Please Contact Us for additional details:
1.682.558.9275
[email protected]
Hot Water Bypass Kit Options:

• Polishing the intake is an available option that has proven popular and really improves the look of the intake. Call For Pricing
• Billet -12AN dual IC water outlet that straightens out the water exit from the stock core and eliminates the cast stock outlet. Call For Pricing
• Intake Plenum spacer… this is an aluminum spacer, black anodized, that uses a factory lid gasket. It is 3/8” thick and spaces the floor of the intake lid 3/8” further away from the IC core. This un-shrouds the outlet of the intercooler air for more airflow and less pressure drop and increase the plenum volume for more power. (shown in one pic… black ring between plenum and plenum lid. Pricing: $432.00

https://www.fischermotorsports.com/

https://www.fischermotorsports.com/specialties/ford-mustang-gt500-hot-water-bypass-kit/#

2013-14 Shelby Cooling System


5.8L with Coolant-Cooled Oil Cooler

NOTE: At (100°F) ambient temperature, green arrows indicate coolant temperature below (194°F), amber arrows indicate coolant temperature approximately (194°F), red arrows indicate coolant temperature above (194°F)

5.8L with Air-Cooled Oil Cooler

NOTE: At (100°F) ambient temperature, green arrows indicate coolant temperature below (194°F), amber arrows indicate coolant temperature approximately 90°C (194°F), red arrows indicate coolant temperature above (194°F)

I would highly recommend you think TWICE before committee to this upgrade and I am not talking about the cost of this upgrade.

This modified dual front inlets (assume total of 2 -16AN which is 1") and a single rear outlet (assume is a -20AN which is 1.25") would take any average person a LONG time to figure out HOW to re-route the rear single exit 1.25" water lines IF you don't use a rear trunk mounted I/C tank reservoir.

Hopefully we can meet sometime this year so I can show you what I have done to my I/C cooling system.

 

[SteveWK]

Here is a thread with more information about the system.

Who Is It That Modifies The Intake Manifold/Intercooler?

Who Is It That Modifies The Intake Manifold/Intercooler? They break the engine cooling out, convert to single pass, etc. It's something like $5,000. Thanks!

www.svtperformance.com

 

[Vinnie_B]

I would highly recommend you think TWICE before committee to this upgrade and I am not talking about the cost of this upgrade.

This modified dual front inlets (assume total of 2 -16AN which is 1") and a single rear outlet (assume is a -20AN which is 1.25") would take any average person a LONG time to figure out HOW to re-route the rear single exit 1.25" water lines IF you don't use a rear trunk mounted I/C tank reservoir.

Hopefully we can meet sometime this year so I can show you what I have done to my I/C cooling system.

Thanks for sharing @Poisonous West. Im not locked into doing anything. Its just an option for whomever may be interested. When I have my motor built, which will hopefully be by Accufab 4.6L/5.4L Racing Engines - Accufab Racing John Mihovetz. Most of the other work will be with SAI and Late Model Mustang racing parts - Expert Road & Drag Race Car Builds. The builder will have the last say!! Hopefully I can catch up with everybody over Dreams Cruise weekend and/or Mustang Memories 2023 car show.

​

 

[Vinnie_B]

Here is a thread with more information about the system.

Who Is It That Modifies The Intake Manifold/Intercooler?

Who Is It That Modifies The Intake Manifold/Intercooler? They break the engine cooling out, convert to single pass, etc. It's something like $5,000. Thanks!

www.svtperformance.com

Thx for sharing the thread @SteveWK . Its a great thread for info regarding this post for anyone interested in this install.

 

[Vinnie_B]

I would highly recommend you think TWICE before committee to this upgrade and I am not talking about the cost of this upgrade.

This modified dual front inlets (assume total of 2 -16AN which is 1") and a single rear outlet (assume is a -20AN which is 1.25") would take any average person a LONG time to figure out HOW to re-route the rear single exit 1.25" water lines IF you don't use a rear trunk mounted I/C tank reservoir.

Hopefully we can meet sometime this year so I can show you what I have done to my I/C cooling system.

Yea I read that thread. I have no plans to run a ice tank in the rear for me. Wont work for what I have planned. If I was building a car strictly for racing on the track.....Maybe!! Thx again Man!!

 

[Poisonous West]

Yea I read that thread. I have no plans to run a ice tank in the rear for me. Wont work for what I have planned. If I was building a car strictly for racing on the track.....Maybe!! Thx again Man!!

Yes you can have this modified dual front inlets (total of 2 -16AN which is 1") and a single rear outlet (-20AN which is 1.25") and still using the existing OEM I/C reservoir. The reservoir can be at the stock location or relocated right next to the battery with a light weight and much smaller one just like the Anti-Gravity Lithium Ion battery.

It took me quite sometime to figure out all the 1.25" rear exit return routings and is not easy especially with the KB water lines. So at the end I decided NOT to go for this route.

 

[Vinnie_B]

Yes you can have this modified dual front inlets (total of 2 -16AN which is 1") and a single rear outlet (-20AN which is 1.25") and still using the existing OEM I/C reservoir. The reservoir can be at the stock location or relocated right next to the battery with a light weight and much smaller one just like the Anti-Gravity Lithium Ion battery.

It took me quite sometime to figure out all the 1.25" rear exit return routings and is not easy especially with the KB water lines. So at the end I decided NOT to go for this route.

No......I can see the difficulties in the install. Its a very interesting set up thou and im sure it works for the right setup. Its just not for everybody. Im no pro at this stuff. If it doesnt have wires hanging from it im lost.....lol (Im a damn electrical nerd) I'll let the pro's at Accufab and Watson Racing figure what best for what I have planned for the SS. I appreciate your opinion!!

 

[Bad Company]

I would highly recommend you think TWICE before committee to this upgrade and I am not talking about the cost of this upgrade.

This modified dual front inlets (assume total of 2 -16AN which is 1") and a single rear outlet (assume is a -20AN which is 1.25") would take any average person a LONG time to figure out HOW to re-route the rear single exit 1.25" water lines IF you don't use a rear trunk mounted I/C tank reservoir.

Hopefully we can meet sometime this year so I can show you what I have done to my I/C cooling system.

Hey Kam

Yes these modifications really only work with a trunk tank. The rear fitting is actually the inlet and the front fittings become dual outlets to the HE. I used -16 for the inlet at the rear of the manifold to have an easier job of routing the hoses from the tank to the manifold and back. my return from the HE to the tank is also -16. Everything gets converted to a single pass on both the IC and HE with a significant volume increase in flow. This meant I had to route 2 -16 hoses from the trunk to the engine and back. The way this was done was actually with bulkhead fittings at the end of the rocker panels with the a hose running inside of a rocker panel on each side of the car to get from the trunk to the engine bay without having a hose under the carpet in the passenger compartment for your feet to be resting on top of in the footwell areas of both the driver and passenger.

 

[Poisonous West]

Hey Kam

Yes these modifications really only work with a trunk tank. The rear fitting is actually the inlet and the front fittings become dual outlets to the HE. I used -16 for the inlet at the rear of the manifold to have an easier job of routing the hoses from the tank to the manifold and back. my return from the HE to the tank is also -16. Everything gets converted to a single pass on both the IC and HE with a significant volume increase in flow. This meant I had to route 2 -16 hoses from the trunk to the engine and back. The way this was done was actually with bulkhead fittings at the end of the rocker panels with the a hose running inside of a rocker panel on each side of the car to get from the trunk to the engine bay without having a hose under the carpet in the passenger compartment for your feet to be resting on top of in the footwell areas of both the driver and passenger.

Hi Kurt, good to hear from you. How is your wife doing? Hope she is getting better now.

I took a deep dive on this special I/C mod about 3 years ago and decided if I want to re-use the OEM I/C reservoir at stock location or relocated next to the battery - because I don't want to add the trunk mount tank.

In my case the front dual -AN16 are the inlets and the single rear -20AN is the outlet. Then I design and 3D print 2 special adapters in aluminum (1 for dual split inlet for 1" hose and 1 for single outlet for 1.25" hose). The 1.25" return routing (goes to passenger side or driver side) depends on the location of the OEM I/C reservoir. If goes to passenger side then I would just go get the DOB Triple Titanic H/E. If goes to the driver side then I would need DOB custom made a Double Titanic H/E. The 13/14 I/C pump is rated at 6gpm but the Mercedes Benz pump (same size, same connector design & and made by the same company) is rated at 8gpm. With is 8gpm pump and shortest routing I would have much less pumping lose due to the extra 40+ feet long hose and several 90 degree turns. My objective is to have minimum pumping lose with the 8gpm Mercedes Benz pump and a single pass I/C.

But since I already spent so much $$$ on my current custom 1" setup already so I decided not to do it.

My last dyno session shows my custom 1" setup works quite good - only 11 degree different between IAT1 vs IAT2 at the end of the pull at around 21-22 psi with the KB 3.6.

 

[SteveWK]

What I would like is an IAT1 that matches ambient all the time or close to it. Going through a drive through at McDonalds and etc, I see temps as high as 140 on the gauge cluster. This is the temp measured by the MAF sensor, not after the intercooler, IAT2. A true cold air intake. Don't know if that is possible.

 

[SteveWK]

What I am trying to say is, if we all could get 85 degree air going in and an ultra efficient intercooler that would be better right? Rather than 140 degree air going in or ambient plus 20 until you have cruised down the highway for 5 miles.

 

[Vinnie_B]

Hi Kurt, good to hear from you. How is your wife doing? Hope she is getting better now.

I took a deep dive on this special I/C mod about 3 years ago and decided if I want to re-use the OEM I/C reservoir at stock location or relocated next to the battery - because I don't want to add the trunk mount tank.

In my case the front dual -AN16 are the inlets and the single rear -20AN is the outlet. Then I design and 3D print 2 special adapters in aluminum (1 for dual split inlet for 1" hose and 1 for single outlet for 1.25" hose). The 1.25" return routing (goes to passenger side or driver side) depends on the location of the OEM I/C reservoir. If goes to passenger side then I would just go get the DOB Triple Titanic H/E. If goes to the driver side then I would need DOB custom made a Double Titanic H/E. The 13/14 I/C pump is rated at 6gpm but the Mercedes Benz pump (same size, same connector design & and made by the same company) is rated at 8gpm. With is 8gpm pump and shortest routing I would have much less pumping lose due to the extra 40+ feet long hose and several 90 degree turns. My objective is to have minimum pumping lose with the 8gpm Mercedes Benz pump and a single pass I/C.

But since I already spent so much $$$ on my current custom 1" setup already so I decided not to do it.

My last dyno session shows my custom 1" setup works quite good - only 11 degree different between IAT1 vs IAT2 at the end of the pull at around 21-22 psi with the KB 3.6.

If you dont mind sharing @Poisonous West what kinda of numbers (IAT-IAT2) on your current setup you getting on a pull at that boost level?Or on a 80-85 degree day cruising around? Just curious.

 

[Bad Company]

Hi Kurt, good to hear from you. How is your wife doing? Hope she is getting better now.

I took a deep dive on this special I/C mod about 3 years ago and decided if I want to re-use the OEM I/C reservoir at stock location or relocated next to the battery - because I don't want to add the trunk mount tank.

In my case the front dual -AN16 are the inlets and the single rear -20AN is the outlet. Then I design and 3D print 2 special adapters in aluminum (1 for dual split inlet for 1" hose and 1 for single outlet for 1.25" hose). The 1.25" return routing (goes to passenger side or driver side) depends on the location of the OEM I/C reservoir. If goes to passenger side then I would just go get the DOB Triple Titanic H/E. If goes to the driver side then I would need DOB custom made a Double Titanic H/E. The 13/14 I/C pump is rated at 6gpm but the Mercedes Benz pump (same size, same connector design & and made by the same company) is rated at 8gpm. With is 8gpm pump and shortest routing I would have much less pumping lose due to the extra 40+ feet long hose and several 90 degree turns. My objective is to have minimum pumping lose with the 8gpm Mercedes Benz pump and a single pass I/C.

But since I already spent so much $$$ on my current custom 1" setup already so I decided not to do it.

My last dyno session shows my custom 1" setup works quite good - only 11 degree different between IAT1 vs IAT2 at the end of the pull at around 21-22 psi with the KB 3.6.

Wife is doing as well as expected for her condition, unfortunately she has entered Stage 3B kidney failure also due to her heart condition.

I know you've spent a tremendous amount of time analyzing these modifications.

The way my system works is the coolant comes from the trunk tank to the inlet at the back of the intake manifold for the IC. It makes a single pass through the IC and exits the 2 -12 hoses to the HE. The HE is the Shelby Extreme with fans that also has been converted to a single pass. The return out of the HE to the trunk tank is a -16. The tank has a 55gpm Meziere integral water pump that pushes the coolant from the tank throughout the system. I honestly can't remember the flow numbers of the system any longer. If I had the car here I could measure it fairly easily, the car is still in Indiana getting the roll cage finished up. If I remember correctly I think the system flows around 10 to 12 GPM.

I can't remember what we saw on IAT1 versus IAT2 while doing the dyno runs roughly 4 years ago. I do remember them being very good at that time. I had a lot of issues I had to resolve once I got the car back from London. And I got frustrated and took it to Ryan Hargett to fix and install the roll cage. It has been out there for a loooong time, but the workmanship has been stellar and the problems fixed. I'm hoping the car will be done this summer.