Forced induction for 13 boss 302

[Wile E. Coyote]

Hey guys, I have 2013 boss 302 and I really want to go forced induction. Now I know there is more to forced induction than just bolting up a supercharger. My question is what forced induction route is more efficient and most people running with. Twin turbo ? Pro charger ? I'm looking to have a 750-800 hp to the wheel daily driven boss. I want all things considered for my choice price, efficiency, and reliability. If you guys can help point me in the right direction I would appreciate it and consider all options. Thanks in advance for the replies.

 

[Deranged2013]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...80830-epic-turbo-boss-build-going-low-8s.html

Probably your best option.
Talk to Poof100, He has the JPC single turbo set up. I think he made around 875 RWHP.

 

[86Fbody]

Efficiency would have to be a turbo since it uses much less power to make power.

 

[spray'n mach 1]

you can make your power goals with any of the FI options, but for around 5K a centri will get you there and keep your underhood looking nice and neat...turbos are awesome but most of those are around 8-10K..good luck with your choice..

 

[86Fbody]

Not sure if you would have to worry with the Boss but don't TVS/root style blowers cause stress on the crank?

 

[Dizzyscure1]

Hey guys, I have 2013 boss 302 and I really want to go forced induction. Now I know there is more to forced induction than just bolting up a supercharger. My question is what forced induction route is more efficient and most people running with. Twin turbo ? Pro charger ? I'm looking to have a 750-800 hp to the wheel daily driven boss. I want all things considered for my choice price, efficiency, and reliability. If you guys can help point me in the right direction I would appreciate it and consider all options. Thanks in advance for the replies.

What's your budget? Is a supercharger or TT kit all your budgeting for? Above 750rwhp I think a fuel systems is a good idea (JPC) Beefcake sells a Paxton for $5k or less and that is more than capable of pushing the stock motor. Also VMP TVS is a great package but I think you should tell us more about your desire for power delivery, your budget and how modded do u wanna get then we can help you figure out your dreams and goals for her

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

My budget for now is 8k and that's if I make a decision and do the build after christmas. I'll be willing to spend more if I wait longer. My mod capacity is endless ill do what ever needs to be down apart from ripping out my interior, that's a no go. I don't know much but I know that Ill need supporting mods for a FI build like driveshaft, suspension, rear end etc. and I'm budgeting for that as well. I'd like to spend 8k all together but if something is better ill always pay more for quality. Anything else you want to know?

 

[Boss3oh2]

Check out VMP, on these cars if you still plan on tracking your car on the road course I would stay away from a turbo unless you want to end up off the track.

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

A buddy of mine really wants me to do vmp, something about they are looking to do an installation video and need a car.

 

[Boss3oh2]

VMP already has a Boss with the VMP kit, Justin owns one. VMP is a great option or you could look at a Roush.

 

[Dizzyscure1]

I personally would do a Paxton from Beefcake, Starter kits are around $4700 shipped, so maybe $5500 for all the goodies for a Paxton and if you install i would get Shaun @ AED to do a remote dyno tune UNLESS you have a reputable dyno tuner for the 5.0's near you. Install of a Supercharger normally should run $800-1500 with $1000-1200 being the middle ground for a large city. The Roadrunner (Engine in the Boss) Should be happy with 650-750rwhp for a DD with good gas, Be very carful not to get crap gas or you will be shelling out big bucks for a new motor. FRPP Aluminator = under $8000 shipped to you and able to take a beating (800-900rwhp from members on here i think) Transmission will also be a issue ONE day unless you doing roll racing, normally the input shafts get ripped up @ the 750rwhp+ and HARD launches on slicks.
I would say budget $6-8k on a security fund lets call it in case a part lets go just to be safe. Getting your car built to be a awesome 650-750rwhp street machine isn't cheap but its not impossible :beer: just be well aware of what can happen and treat her well and maintain her and the Boss should be around for a long time. :thumbsup: build log and pics when you get your baby going!

 

[Dizzyscure1]

VMP already has a Boss with the VMP kit, Justin owns one. VMP is a great option or you could look at a Roush.

VMP TVS 700 Kit is amazing bundle, instant power which will shred lots and lots of street tires LOL!

 

[nosympathy]

I personally would do a Paxton from Beefcake, Starter kits are around $4700 shipped, so maybe $5500 for all the goodies for a Paxton and if you install i would get Shaun @ AED to do a remote dyno tune UNLESS you have a reputable dyno tuner for the 5.0's near you. Install of a Supercharger normally should run $800-1500 with $1000-1200 being the middle ground for a large city. The Roadrunner (Engine in the Boss) Should be happy with 650-750rwhp for a DD with good gas, Be very carful not to get crap gas or you will be shelling out big bucks for a new motor. FRPP Aluminator = under $8000 shipped to you and able to take a beating (800-900rwhp from members on here i think) Transmission will also be a issue ONE day unless you doing roll racing, normally the input shafts get ripped up @ the 750rwhp+ and HARD launches on slicks.
I would say budget $6-8k on a security fund lets call it in case a part lets go just to be safe. Getting your car built to be a awesome 650-750rwhp street machine isn't cheap but its not impossible :beer: just be well aware of what can happen and treat her well and maintain her and the Boss should be around for a long time. :thumbsup: build log and pics when you get your baby going!

Or the OP could just go ahead and have the trans pulled apart, gears cryotreated, better synchros put it and brass shift forks put in.

Would be a lot cheaper to do that ahead of time than after words.

Or put in a T56 magnum and new rear gears 3.90 or 4.10

 

[Tyler72]

Ive looked at blowers too... Ive also installed multiple kits. Its gonna be hard to beat a blown boss because you get the handling & also incredible power. If you do any type of road racing or auto x I wouldn't suggest a turbo setup at all. Centri blowers are cheap & make incredible horse power, but they are a little lacking on torque. They are great blowers if you keep the rpm up but a positive displacement blower (roush, vmp, kenne bell, Whipple) will make instant torque. This is nice coming out of the corners because you can run in a higher gear. Sometimes saving you a shift or 2 which would normally cost you time. If its in your budget, my suggestion would be a 2.9 Whipple. The bigger blower is more efficient & IAT will be lower for the given amount of boost pressure.

 

[Boss949]

I've also been thinking about a blower.

Whipple 2.9 has been recommended to me. I have a relative and a good friend who have access to FRPP and Roush who can hook me up with prices.

I've also wondered about the Centri's and keeping the Boss Intake? If I use it mainly for drag racing (as opposed to Road Racing) which type of SC is better? Off the line power? or at the mid to top, since the Boss is not the easiest to hook up off the line?

So many choices!!

 

[Tyler72]

Any positive displacement blower is going to have better off the line capability due to the instant torque. Its great for road racing & drag racing too IF you can hook it. I think its probably easier to launch a centri car at the track if you have traction issues, but as soon as it builds boost you may still start spinning, only difference is you'll be 100ft down the track. Power of a centri is more curved, kinda similar to a high revving N/A engine (Boss) but with a lot higher peak. Torque will be curved too. A posi blower will have a much flatter torque curve that is really high as soon as you hit it, even at low rpm. The horsepower will still have a slight curve, but no where near as steep as a centri car due to the fact that boost pressure stays fairly consistent throughout the RPM range. Either will get the job done on the drag strip. But the centri can be manipulated by short shifting & keeping the RPM down in cases where traction is an issue. So I'd probably go centri for the drag strip (unless I was going to do full drag suspension & slicks) & a posi for a road course car.

 

[J.Shoot]

ProCharger...

I have a D-1 on my 2013 Boss. I really like the set up. I would keep an open mind to all the mods you will need. Definitely will want UCA and LCA's to get the power to the ground. My car runs great, it's not a DD, and it sees alot of track time. I've put a McLeod clutch in it also. I havn't done any transmission work but I know it will probably be next on the list. Good luck on your set up, any of them will be fun.....

J.Shoot

 

[Deranged2013]

All the above super chargers, turbos, and pro chargers have proven work great with these cars. You really have consider supporting mods though. I have seen where FI cars running Fuel pump voltage regulators or BAPs have killed their fuel pumps recently, so you may want to look in to upgrading your fuel system. A 1 peace drive shaft with safety loops is a must and upgrading your suspension and tires/wheels if you want to get all that power to the ground. I could probably afford to get a $7000.00 supercharger but to do everything right and make it safe, I would have to spend another 5k. Plus another $1,500.00 for the install and tuning. That's the reason I haven't done FI yet. I would have to have about $14,000.00 saved up before I would attempt adding a supercharger. IMO it would be pointless if I couldn't get all that power to the ground safely.

 

[guarnibl]

I've done the basics -- I'm putting down above 600 rwhp with:

1) Whipple 2.3, Smaller (not quite smallest) Pulley, Cobra Jet Throttle Body, JLT Intake, KB BAP, 60 lb injectors, SCT Tuner / Remote Tuned

2) Full Exhaust (Kooks Long Tubes, Kooks Side Pipes, Kooks Catted H Pipe)

3) UCA/LCA (Billet) / Mounts. Wheel hop went away -- will help keep your rear axle happy. Does increase NVH.

4) NT05R's in the rear.

I think I spent around $13,000 after everything. I'm on a crazy conservative 91 tune right now and made 600 rwhp. Since then I've added full exhaust/intake and had the tune adjusted -- did not dyno it though. I'm probably around 650 rwhp on 91 pump gas (~10 psi after headers). Was right about 600 before the full exhaust/intake setup.

If you're looking to get higher I would just flat out go with the Kenne Bell 3.6 (unless you're really nuts and want the 4.2) and a GT500 transmission if money is there (can always do tranny later). My 2.3 is plenty and I can probably squeeze another 100 rwhp out of it with a pulley swap and E85. Should put me around 750-800 rwhp -- but honestly that's too much power for the street so I probably won't do it.

 

[12C/OBoss]

2.8LC Kenne Bell with 8 rib drive, 2200 CFM throttle body, 72lb injectors, ATI damper, Maggy o/r x pipe/ Borla S types/ Lund Tune/ 18.5 psi/ ALL ELSE STOCK is 785 RWHP!


Felt like a 10 liter motor and revved to 7500 RPM


Google "Kenne Boss"

We did this all back in April 2011...My Boss was the testbed for all Kenne Bell blowers!

5.0 Mag has the dyno vid 930 CHP/785WHP


I removed the TB and ran 14 PSI so about 650 RWHP and the thing was a beast on the street. No full throttle till top of 3rd gear and stock clutch was fine. MANY "top street" cars were "killed" on closed course 60-160 pulls. Best was a 2010 Dinan supercharged m5 that ran low 10's...beat him 3 times to over 160 when we ran to Mexico!!! He could not beleive the speed of this car