Finally made some headway on my Knock issue

[VNMOUS1]

I HAVE seen a random hose clamp on a coil cover that made enough rattle to set them off, but there's nothing in the design or operation of the cai itself that can possible cause it.

bj

 

[JPs2013GT500]

The JLT I have is an older model (with sticker logo) and it had a LOT of play/movement. The PMAS seems to be held firm by the somewhat ill-fitting air-box that came with it.

As I mentioned earlier the local dyno tuner saw/heard no signs of knock with the JLT/dual 65mm combo. That led me wonder about it bouncing around against the coil cover due to bumps on the road vs. a smooth dyno pull.

At some point I'll put the JLT back on and isolate/insulate it to keep it from moving around and see if that was an issue for me.

 

[dennisdiecast]

I'm also having a weird situation with false knock, i just changed spark plugs (TR7IX) and gapped them at .028 and i'm starting to see - and + readings on my Lund nGauge at WOT in 3rd gear. Has anyone ever heard of spark plugs possibly causing this? I have JLT intake, 2.4 upper, Stainless Works Headers.

Last year i was running TR6 plugs gapped at .030 and i'm pretty sure i wasn't getting a knock reading unless i WOT in 6th gear while going 35mph.

 

[biminiLX]

Going to a colder plug (7 vs 6) should definitely not cause knock to be more of an issue. I’d be looking at the headers and steering shaft or easy sources of false knock. Otherwise, load is higher in 4th than 3rd, so you’d expect to see true knock in a higher load environment. If 4th is clean but 3rd shows knock and you’re experiencing wheel hop or traction issues in third, I’d consider that false knock.
I’m glad I’m on E85 and can turn my sensors down.
The best thing for your engine is appropriate octane.
-J