1500 rwhp in a non sleeved block ? They must use unicorn blood in the base pan
Finally Have Engine Out
- Thread starter ktulu1984
- Start date
...lol
I think a 5.4 block would prove to be more reliable then the 5.8 which is not really "serviceable", rare and expensive. A 5.8 at 1000 hp something tells me you will be buying another one. Are you getting a brand new 5.8 block from LM or are they sleeving a used block?
I was surprised to see they don't sleeve the blocks and rate them to that power level
This is from Mike on the sleeved block. I emailed him and it makes sense to me.
We offer sleeved 5.8 AFTER they are damage by a melted piston or by request.
The Plasma coated block is structurally stronger than the sleeve block.
Just think about it, we bore all but less than a sixteenth of an inch (.040” left until water) of the block to install the sleeve.
There is nothing left to keep the deck connected to the bottom (mains) of the block when the combustion is trying to blow the head off…………
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All the Texas Mile cars are stock blocks, our NMRA Renegade cars are stock blocks, etc.
The Devils Reject running 7.40’s is stock block.
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The Internet are not engineers nor build engines, but somebody like MMR (They have no engine shop or machine shop) sells a sleeved block starting the rumor the sleeve is better.
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Sleeved job is $1995, takes us about 7-10 days.
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Michael
We offer sleeved 5.8 AFTER they are damage by a melted piston or by request.
The Plasma coated block is structurally stronger than the sleeve block.
Just think about it, we bore all but less than a sixteenth of an inch (.040” left until water) of the block to install the sleeve.
There is nothing left to keep the deck connected to the bottom (mains) of the block when the combustion is trying to blow the head off…………
*
All the Texas Mile cars are stock blocks, our NMRA Renegade cars are stock blocks, etc.
The Devils Reject running 7.40’s is stock block.
*
The Internet are not engineers nor build engines, but somebody like MMR (They have no engine shop or machine shop) sells a sleeved block starting the rumor the sleeve is better.
*
Sleeved job is $1995, takes us about 7-10 days.
*
Michael
The stock 5.8 block will always be better than a sleeved one as there is already very little material between the bores. The smaller bore 5.4 with a sleeve will be better in every way. The iron Boss block which has the same bore as the Trinity engine won't hold boost like the 4.6 or 5.4 with the smaller bore. Ford has to resort to plasma arc heat transfer process as a cost cutting measure and to allow larger diameter cylinder on an engine which such close bore spacing.
I would dial the engine back from your stated goals to get greater longevity out of the engine. Bare 5.8 blocks from Ford are around $5800 last time I checked. The supply of those blocks are going to dry-up pretty quickly as the 5.8 is a very low production engine. You could bore the cylinders on the 5.4 2-3 times before you need to re-sleeve it. At the very least I would get a used 5.4 block and keep it as a replacement.
Interesting, Thanks for posting that. It defiantly makes.
Makes total sense for anybody that knows these motors…..
Tim @ MPR doesn't recommend taking non sleeved blocks past 1000rwhp . ....just a thought
As a Certified welder , That head is fixable . I've welded up bigger holes and cracks in heads than what you have for one of our local engine shops . Every welding /fab shop near you should have an aluminum tig welder and a competent welder skilled enough to do that . Most shop rates run $40-60 an hour and would be looking at roughly 15-30 mins with an hour at the max .
No where does it say in that link or on his website about the complete engine does it claim there is a warranty included in the purchase of said products
This 100%
Can OP or someone else share context of when the engine failure occurred? Street pull? Dyno? 1/4 mile? Texas mile? Can't find other threads / posts to indicate.
Just did a brief review of mods in signature and has me worried bc of a similar mod route I'd like to go.
Good luck getting it back up and running OP.
Just did a brief review of mods in signature and has me worried bc of a similar mod route I'd like to go.
Good luck getting it back up and running OP.
Wow! usually when a rod lets go, it breaks at the cap, bolt or sometimes the small end. I'm basing this on what I have seen on earlier engines from the 60's and 70's. Typically the beam doesn't break unless there was a stress riser or a flaw. This is why they used to polish the flash along the beams to get rid of the stress risers.
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