Finally Have Engine Out

ktulu1984

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So I finally have my engine pulled and was able to see all of the damage from when my engine blew. Of course the expected damage was there from the rod breaking, but we found something that wasn't expected. The rod that broke was the number 2 piston on the passenger side, but on the driver side between cylinder 7 and 8 the block and head have a section that was washed out. The head gasket was burned also in that spot. Prior to the engine blowing the car wasn't showing any signs of a blown gasket. I did notice that my gas mileage had went down a little bit, but not enough to make me think that something was wrong. I ordered my short block through L&M Engines, it will be arriving this Friday. Now I have to figure out what to do about my heads. I talked to Mike at L&M and he said that they can be fixed, but due to the location of the washed out area he cannot offer any warranty on it. Now I have to decide if I should buy a new head or try to repair. If anyone has any experience having heads welded and repaired I would like to hear the pros/cons of having that done.
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ktulu1984

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In the picture that shows the broken rod you can see the window that it put in the block.
 
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Bad Company

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In the picture that shows the broken rod you can see the window that it put in the block.
Can the head be salvaged? Yes. But there are a lot of issues in trying to salvage it.

The first one is the fact it is cast aluminum. During the casting process impurities are usually introduced into the molten aluminum as it is poured into the casting mold. These impurities create porosity in the weld as you try to repair that area. Also the cast aluminum will be of a different grade of aluminum versus the welding wire used to repair the area. These dissimilarities in the aluminum will create problems in the quality of the weld.

The second issue is the fact that when you weld cast aluminum you make it brittle, which intern makes it more prone to crack in that area. The fact that the repaired area will be subject to both high cylinder temperatures and pressures, along with constant temperature changes each time you shut the engine off and restart it. I'd bet it will crack in the repaired area at some point in the future. If this was in a valve seat area that you were welding up, I'd be more willing to say the repair would hold, but the fact it is between 2 cylinder with a very narrow area to fill. I don't think it will

Now the thing that really gets me is your comment about a warranty. I had a motor built by L & M Engines. When it failed with 5 hours of run time and 325 miles of mostly interstate cruising miles, Michael's comment was his engines don't have a warranty. If he is telling you he will warranty his workmanship..........GET THAT IN WRITING FROM HIM.

My personal thoughts are is it is cheaper to buy a new head then take the risk of repairing this one. If you repair this head and it does fail, you run the same risk of torching the deck of the block and not only lose the cylinder head, but the block also. That is too much money to gamble with on a repairing this head versus maybe doing the exact same rebuild in the future that you're doing now.
 

Imatk

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I agree... new head.

Even if you managed to fix it, would you be comfortable with it?

I wouldn't.


Just seems like something that could cause another catastrophic failure down the road... and even more money :/
 

RBB

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Agee with BC and Imatk. Spend a little more now to make sure it's done right or you might be spending a lot more in the future. I would not trust a repair to hold up in that spot.
 

TVS VERT

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I have a strong suspicion this thread is gonna go to $hit fast lol.......Sorry for the failure on the engine OP and wish you nothing but the best in your build.
 

merkyworks

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Sorry to hear this ktulu1984 ,the mods listed in your signature are pretty mild for these motors. Did you get bad gas or over rev the motor to cause a rod to let go like that?
 

Catmonkey

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I'd spring for a new head. I was getting misfire codes with just this between 7&8. Hard to imagine that window between the cylinders went unnoticed.

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2011 gtcs

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Glade you finally got the engine out OP. Did you get a built 5.8 short block or a 5.4 short block? That's crazy what happen to block and cylinder head.
 

ktulu1984

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I went with the 5.8 block. Going to buy just the LH head, repair the RH head that only has the bent valves.
 

Weather Man

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I went with the 5.8 block. Going to buy just the LH head, repair the RH head that only has the bent valves.

With the money involved, you made the right decision. Good luck with the new engine!
 

KENS96M6

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Also interested in hearing what led to the failure. Thanks
Sorry to hear this ktulu1984 ,the mods listed in your signature are pretty mild for these motors. Did you get bad gas or over rev the motor to cause a rod to let go like that?
 

2011 gtcs

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ktulu1984

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Staying with the TVS, costing enough money to get it back up and running already, lol. One day I my do a KB swap.
 

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