Factory wheel Alignment on lowered cars?

[Saleen313]

I'm wondering if I get a wheel alignment done using factory Numbers will I be ok or will I need a custom alignment done. The car is mostly street driven, might see the strip but will never do autocross or anything. I will be using the local firestone since I have lifetime alignment there. I will have to ask them if they only go by factory settings or if they will align things to my specs.

My set up is: H&R race springs, HD bilsteins, MM caster/camber plates, Steeda bumpsteer, Steeda X2 ball joints. There are no iso's up front just the X2 spacer and lower MM iso's in the back. Feel free to recommend alignment specs or if factory specs will due. Thanks

 

[Brutal Metal]

Tell the Alignment tech guy that you have High Quality aftermarket CC Plates that call for these settings..
4.5-5.0 Degrees Positive Caster
1.0 Degree Negative Camber
Factory Toe
Done!

 

[SlowSVT]

Lowering the chassis alters the steering geometry. That's what drop ball joints are for. The A-arms should be parellel to the ground to correct it. This will not show up in a wheel alignment.

 

[Saleen313]

I just got back from getting the alignment done. Didnt have too much problem getting them to try and get the settings as requested. Results are:

Front L Front R Cross Cam -.4
-1.2

Camber -.08 Cross Cas -.2
4.4 Caster 4.6 Total Toe .30
.15 toe .14 (within factory spec)

Rear L Rear R Cross Cam .1
-.9 Camber -1 Total Toe .23
.11 toe .11

Not sure what going on with my spaces up top. can get them to stay. Hopefully you can still understand it.

Is the .04 difference in front camber an big issue or is it close enough?
Also I checked the orientation of my a-arms an their not quite parallel to the ground. Is this a real issue and what can be done to correct this? Does anyone have pics of there setup showing parallel a-arms. Looking at mine its hard to picture them ever even getting straight. Thanks

 

[Saleen313]

I might have mis-read what Slowsvt was trying to say about the a-arms and x2 ball joints. lowering the chassis makes the arms unparallel but adding the X2 corrects the steering geometry but the arms will remain unparallel to the ground. Is this correct?

 

[Brutal Metal]

They should have been able to get the camber on each side closer, -1.2 on one side and -.8 on the other is what your writing says right? If all they could get on one side was-.8 the other should be the same..Caster looks good!
How does it drive? more + Caster makes these cars feel so much better with your hands on the steering wheel, it tightens all the sloppiness up!

 

[Saleen313]

Thats right -1.2 and -.8. The car felt tighter before with the caster at 3.1 and 3.4 but its not bad the way its is now. I have to put some more miles on it and get a better felt for it. Maybe take some tighter turns at some speed. I wanted to get her home and verify all the bolts were tightened first. I'll know more tomorrow.

 

[SlowSVT]

Late Model Mustang Suspension Basics

 

[Saleen313]

Wow, Thanks for the info slowsvt. Always appreciate links like that.

 

[SlowSVT]

Go easy on how much you lower your Cobra. The more you do it the more bottoming damage will occur. Your stomach will knot a little with every scrape, bump or bang!

 

[Saleen313]

Been there, done that. I just recently switched from the SS to the race spring to try and stiffen things up. Then I added the bottom rear iso just the other day to raise the rear. Its taking bumps pretty good these last few days but time will tell if I have to add the other iso. Im happy with the height and stance but if severe scrapping starts then it will have to get raised some more. I'll prolly post some pics in the pic/vid section tomorrow showing the drop and how my RK plasmas look since getting chromed.

 

[Darkc0bra]

That is why I enjoy my steeda springs with 18" wheels. Lowers just enough not to bottom out on everything. And looks really good. I have the same troubles I can't align it properly but I am tired of messing with it so I just left it. Even with Aftermarket CC plates still won't align right. Or what it looks like at least.

 

[mu22stang]

Wait until the car is the final configuration - springs are settled and you're on the 18's - before it is aligned. With MM plates, there is no reason you can't get an even cross camber alignment on the front. However, each car is different and you may need to slot the holes in the strut tower. Factory settings should be ok, but you can go more aggressive if you'd like. Typically, the more aggressive the camber, the more wear.

The MM camber plates (top plates) are assymmetric and swappable from driver to passenger side. Struts to the inboard side of these plates provides the more aggressive range.

The stock A-arms will never be parallel to the ground at that ride height. As long as the steering rods are even with the A-arm axis points (correctly bumpsteered) the geometry will be correct.

 

[Saleen313]

After I initially installed my plates I had the top plate in the more negative config. but when I swapped to the race springs I did swap top cc plates. I still have more adjustment at this setup but I will see how the car reacts as is.

Oh, and I been swap springs but added the bottom iso's in the rear about 3 days before the alignment.The 18's have been on for about a month and a half when I did the springs and shocks.