This is an ad I wrote a while ago but should still be pretty close to accurate. Photobucket link at the bottom.
1988 5.0 LX Coupe/Notchback for trade
I purchased the car in 2007 from the 2nd owner that only owned the car for 1600-1700 miles. (wife was mad that he bought it) The car had 115K miles as an all original, down to the plug wires which I kept, unmolested car. I will provide a list from here
Engine and related
Edelbrock Hi-flow water pump
New timing chain/gears
PowerMaster 130 AMP alternator
All new sensors (Motorcraft) (Everything I used in the car was Motorcraft, if available) (o2's, ECT, ACT, TPS etc) Never failed emissions but not required anymore.
MAC cold air intake
Fresh intake gaskets
FMS plug wires
Kirban adjustable FPR
Fuel pressure gauge mounted under the hood
Rebuilt fuel injectors
Aluminum FMS D/S
Aluminum Flywheel (Fidanza) with Spec stage 2 clutch. (Pretty firm)
Mark VIII electric fan controlled by a DCC controller (best on the market)
Bassani catted x-pipe with Flowmaster cat-back system (3-chamber)
190LPH Walbro fuel pump and new sending unit
A/C works great
Polyurethane engine mounts/trans mount
Engine has never been "beheaded"
Suspension/Chassis
Maximum Motorsports Road and Track Package
BBK upper control arms (MM only supplies lower in the kit)
UPR Spherical upper control arm bushings.
4 wheel disk (new) (Thunderbird Turbo coupe application)
8.8 rear with 3.55 gears (completely fresh with 03/04 carbon fiber clutch packs, bearings, shims, cross pin, bolt etc)
Retrofitted turbo coupe rear hard brake lines (larger). It took some light fab to work. Most people don't go to that effort. (I don't know anyone that has)
New axles
73mm SVO calipers (stainless steel pistons)
Steel Braided brake hoses
All bushing positions are polyurethane (Energy Suspension)
Ford Motorsport proportioning valve
Eibach front and rear sway bars
Flaming River power steering rack with an AGR pump and commercial grade hi pressure hose
Exterior
Fresh PPG Concept paint in factory color code (9L) paint (SHOW WORTHY)
Fully disassembled and reassembled professionally (all gaps are perfect!)
(Have photos of all vin tags/labels from all panels) (Body shop stated that there was a repair made, probably in its first couple of years of life to the L/H rear quarter fender lip)
All original sheet metal and bumpers
All new factory decals and emblems replaced. I wanted the car to appear to be factory correct. Two stickers not available are the Calibration Label and the VIN sticker in driver door jamb. ALL others present
New door jamb switches for the interior lights that have rubber dust covers on them as well
New power mirrors installed
New dew wipes, inside and out
New seals throughout. Doors, trunk...
New one piece headlights (I like them but would probably go back to the original 6 pc config)
New tail lights
New Saleen SC knock-offs that were painted white (9L) with a polished lip (17x9 all 4 corners with Michelin Pilot Super Sports) 245 front 275 rear
Custom center caps that I made using a laser cutter.
Door and truck locks etched and painted body color WITH gaskets. Most people over look those. Makes a difference in over all professional appearance
New Safelight tinted windshield
302 emblems vice 5.0 from a 69 Z28. (Wheel center caps have 302 in the same font engraved in the Ford blue oval)
PPG Ceramic (legal) window tint
Interior
This you need to see to appreciate
Originally all blue
New carpet, correct blue color
Corbeau GTS 2 with pump-up lumbar supports and BOTH seats have Corbeau double locking seat rails if you choose to legally track the car with a passenger (black)
New seat belts (black)
New Hurst completion plus shifter (The whole thing, not just the stick and ball) I bought a stick and ball JUST to get the shifter cover plate.
New power mirror control switch (sounds menial but expensive switch!)
New arm rests for doors and center console (needs a dye that adheres better than the paint that is sold)
Tasteful black/blue paint scheme that looks factory but aggressive. It's truly bad ass! I get compliments at every car show about the interior
COMPLETE DYNOMAT install, to include the quarters, truck, doors.
Used closed cell silicone aircraft insulation on top of that. (You really notice it when driving with the stereo on)
Pioneer stereo BT capable with the ability to connect a phone.
Infinity speakers in dash and Polk Audio door and rear deck speakers
New rear "package tray"
Rear seat delete with powered subwoofer (8 inch) Battery mounted within the rear seat delete kit (used 0 gauge silver coated aircraft starter/charging system cable. About 2K if you had to buy it...)
All wiring ran through factory wire looms and connections were soldered
Certified Calibration 140 MPH speedo. Left it black faced to show authenticity. Other gauges are white faced.
Grant leather steering wheel
A/C works great! All HVAC ducts are sealed and have R3 insulation wrapped around them. Fully sealed system.
Steeda adjustable clutch quadrant
Maximum Motorsports clutch pedal relocation kit (puts it on the same plane as the brake pedal, so no more 3 different heights of pedals)
Points of concern on the car
* I replaced the heater core 6 years ago and this one has sprung a leak. Needs a new one. $50-$70 and about 7 hours of time to replace.
* Front Right has a sIight “chirp.” I have new bearings and seals (National) and new EBC Yellow Stuff pads. Wanted to get slotted rotors and do them at the same time.
* TOB is a bit noisy it idle. It only has about 3000 miles on it.
* Parking brake cable needs adjustment. It works great but is adjusted wrong. When you are turning leaving a parking spot (tight turn) the pads rub the rear rotors and moan a bit.
Those are the items that need attention, if you choose. So, about $120 in parts and about 15 hours of labor depending on your mechanical ability. That includes changing the TOB (Throw Out Bearing).
Points of interest
I could go on forever about this car. I spared no expense and used the best parts available for the restoration. I spent slightly over 17K last year on the exterior and interior ALONE. I have right at 29 - 30K in this car. It handles/drives and runs flawlessly.
It has been to Wisconsin twice, just drove it to Charleston SC last weekend, so I know it's reliable and sound. I managed a 26.98 mpg to Wisconsin (2.73 gears) and 22.67 MPG (3.55 gears) averaging about 73mph. It IS the best foxbody you will ever drive, bar none. EVERYONE that sees it says it's the cleanest foxbody they have ever seen. I don't deny that.
I ran out of money with the exterior and interior resto, so that is why the engine and trans has not been gone through, nor a repaint of the engine compartment. Those items along with the entire underbody repaint were next on my list.
I know most people you are more interested in a supercharged car. I can tell you this; it's much cheaper AND easier to SC a car than it is to do what I have already done. I can tell you while writing the last paragraph many things have not been mentioned, some visible, some not (like new screw kits, door moisture barriers (the plastic the factory put behind the door panels) Believe me, I didn't miss anything in the restoration effort... it's all there. If it came from the factory, it's on this car.
Don't be one of those guys/gals that think they can buy a 5-7000 dollar coupe and put it at this level for less than the trade value I’m looking for. It ain't gonna happen. If you want to do that, by all means, go for it. This car is already set for the power plant of your dreams! Alright, I'm done or I'll be here all day!
Reasoning for offering this car
I have two foxbody's and I want to concentrate my efforts on my SVO. The coupe is FANTASTIC but I don't drive it much for fear of something happening to it. I don't think I'll take another car to this level again, for that reason.
I'd like to trade for something different all together. Mostly interested in an BMW M3 (E30 or E36) a nice E30 with an S52 swap, Porsche 944 Turbo, 93-96 Corvette, 96 LT4 preferred, 2003/4 Mach 1, 96-98 Cobra, Lightning, including "old school" Lightnings. Those just come to the top of my head but would consider other performance vehicles.
My car is surely not junk and can be a daily driver, if you choose. I'm looking for the same with the caveat that it doesn't have to be perfect as long as it is: A) a daily driver with working A/C, a decent interior and presentable in exterior condition. B) you are able to put cash on top if your trade isn’t up to par. I'm more than happy to trade down and I would actually prefer that. BUT, if you have something nice, that you are into for more than it's worth, like I am, then by all means, send me an e-mail and we can at least feel like we are breaking even!
If you are looking for a cash price, send an e-mail. It's 5-figures, so If you aren't prepared for that, do not ask. I am also willing to part with some other goodies that I have stashed away for this car, for the right trade. (Heads, Roller Rockers, GT 40 Tubular intake and BRAND new stand-alone system with wide band O2.) Also have all the stock parts as well. Depends on the trade..
Tony
http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/USMarineRet/library/Mobile Uploads
Tony
