Electrical issues(battery light after battery replacement)

king nothing

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I just replaced my battery the other day but the battery light on the dash is still on. Is this something that needs to be cleared or do i still have a problem somewhere? What should my voltage be at idle? My multimeter is only saying 11.5v seems low. i thought it should be 13-14. the car has been sitting for 5 months. the alternator couldnt have gone bad just sitting could it? I just took the car on a 15 mile shakedown and it ran perfectly
 

Blueline

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Yes your alternator is bad. You should be 13.8v - 14v depending on your idle. Swap in another alt. and you should be all good.
 

Jomo1994z71

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Do your research. Skip the crapzone, o'reilley's, or advance auto alts. Even with a lifetime warranty. They don't hold up.
Go with a start-n-charge or reman ford one from Tousely Ford.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Cant really afford an new alternator. Anyplace to get a decent used one? I read in another thread that a v6 alt might fit?

Then park it until you can afford to repair it correctly.:nonono::rollseyes

That is unless you want to the new president of "the alternator of the week club", then by all means, continue on your present path.:nonono:
 

Jimmysidecarr

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I just Un-parked it. Can an alternator go bad from sitting over the winter? It was fine last fall...

Yes and here is how.

Let's say the battery was not on a tender and went flat during storage.
Owner jumps the car to start it with his other car.
When the car starts and the cables are removed the alternator begins trying to charge a completely dead battery.

That job is for battery chargers not alternators because an alternator is just designed for repeated top offs and maintaining a charge.

Within a short period of time the alternator over heats and bites the dust.

The battery is found to be bad and gets replaced, but now the light is on.

Or it was just ready to fail anyway and the restart on the bad battery heated it up enough for it to tank.
 

Bdubbs

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I assume Tousley sells brand new ones and reman ones? I myself would go with a brand new one if possible. But do you have to send them the junk one for a core?
 

king nothing

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Yes and here is how.

Let's say the battery was not on a tender and went flat during storage.
Owner jumps the car to start it with his other car.
When the car starts and the cables are removed the alternator begins trying to charge a completely dead battery.

That job is for battery chargers not alternators because an alternator is just designed for repeated top offs and maintaining a charge.

Within a short period of time the alternator over heats and bites the dust.

The battery is found to be bad and gets replaced, but now the light is on.

Or it was just ready to fail anyway and the restart on the bad battery heated it up enough for it to tank.
Battery did go DEAD over the winter. Charged it up before starting for the first time this year. Couldnt bring it back to life though
 

hiimdrummer03

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As mentioned.Just do the correct repair.
Also buy yourself a battery tender next year.

Also,who checked your electrical.On a previous cobra i had.Took it to advanced AutoParts,they checked it and said battery was fine but the alternator was the problem.This was done with there handheld scanner.If they could do it,makes me wonder who scanned yours.
 

skratpiece

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Whatever you decide to do, be aware that someone recently wrote an entire review on here about how the factory alternator in a terminator is heavily overspun. By reducing the size of the pulley, you can prolong life of the alternator, and maintain if not increase the performance.
 

king nothing

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I feel like an idiot for asking this, but is there a trick to getting the alternator out of the engine bay without removing a bunch of other stuff? I have it unbolted, but it seems that any way i try to go I have to remove brackets or all the cooling hoses. id prefer not to open the cooling system if i dont have to
 

Jimmysidecarr

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I feel like an idiot for asking this, but is there a trick to getting the alternator out of the engine bay without removing a bunch of other stuff? I have it unbolted, but it seems that any way i try to go I have to remove brackets or all the cooling hoses. id prefer not to open the cooling system if i dont have to

**Alternator - Removal How-To PICS ** - SVTPerformance

from here-> http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/740817-new-complete-how-thread.html


Which is from here--> (sticky is at the top in Terminator talk)http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ator-frequently-asked-questions-new-guys.html
 
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king nothing

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Just found that. Ran out of light so ill have to finish removal tomorrow. Decided to go with a local shop that all they do is rebuild starters, alternators, and fix auto electrical to rebuild the stock alt.
 

Blueline

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When they rebuild it, have them upgrade it as well. My alt. was sent to a company that does alternators for ambulances and other high load applications. They upgraded MY alt. and now it charges perfect and no issues thus far. Its basically like a stock heavy duty one now. Im sure if the shop your taking it to rebuilds them, they will know what is needed to beef your stock one up. GL
 

king nothing

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Jesus, I remember when replacing an alternator was a 20 minute job from start to finish. I spent 45 minutes today just getting mine out from under the car after it was already unbolted LOL. off to the rebuilder tomorrow hopefully. Back on the road early next week
 

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