Electric Fan not working

[RFM50]

Has anyone experienced any issues with there fan not working? My fan decided to stop working on me today and I'm not sure if it went out or not. I swapped both hi and low relays with the wiper relay and the wipers came on fine with each relay. I also swapped the 40 amp relay with the rear defroster 40 amp and still nothing. I plan on pulling the fan out and testing with a straight hot and ground to the fan but I was hoping someone else has experienced this and can maybe point me toward something simple. Thanks.

 

[RFM50]

Anybody?

 

[svt04cobra1]

Yes..... I had the same issue. Just raced a Vette and beat it. Then pulled a left to bang and U and looked down. My temp gauge was buried. I shut off my car but it over heated a bit. Hobbled home and found the low pressure relay was not working. I bought a new one but during the trouble shooting process I did the same thing with swapping out the high with the low and so on. When I did that mine started working again. Have not had the problem since but keep a close eye on it. Was very strange but same thing happened. It was not the fan but the relay. When we started checking power to the relay, it was like the PCM was not sending a signal to power on the low pressure relay. If that happens the car will over heat.

 

[RFM50]

So what did you figure out with the car not sending a signal to the relay?

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

I have seen this many times. Mostly 2007+ models in warmer environments. The factory relay burns out. Swapping this usually is the fix. Some upgrade their fans too.

 

[RFM50]

I found the problem and it wasn't a relay. I'm pretty sure the reluctor on the side of the fan went bad and fried the plug. Anyone know where I can get a new plug for the wiring harness. I'm lucky this didn't start a fire.

 

[5.0s 4 ever]

The service wiring pigtail kit for the cooling fan resistor is part number DU2Z-14S411-ABA, a local Ford dealership should have it in stock or order it for you

 

[RFM50]

The service wiring pigtail kit for the cooling fan resistor is part number DU2Z-14S411-ABA, a local Ford dealership should have it in stock or order it for you

Thanks. Yeah I actually found it online yesterday and ordered it. My local dealer said it was only available from Detroit. So I will be fixing the plug and installing a GT500 fan setup. Have you seen this problem before? Is that how you know the part number?

 

[Derek@Lethal]

Funny how some things never change. Had this same problem on numerous 5.0L SN95 cars, drove me nuts. On those, it was the CCRM that would have a shorted relay in the box. Car would run hot, pop the hood, fan isn't working, look at the connector and its melted with glowing red wires :fm: . Good thing you caught it and yes, good thing it didn't start a fire!

 

[RFM50]

Funny how some things never change. Had this same problem on numerous 5.0L SN95 cars, drove me nuts. On those, it was the CCRM that would have a shorted relay in the box. Car would run hot, pop the hood, fan isn't working, look at the connector and its melted with glowing red wires :fm: . Good thing you caught it and yes, good thing it didn't start a fire!

Anyway to avoid this?

 

[5.0s 4 ever]

Thanks. Yeah I actually found it online yesterday and ordered it. My local dealer said it was only available from Detroit. So I will be fixing the plug and installing a GT500 fan setup. Have you seen this problem before? Is that how you know the part number?

I am a ford tech but i have not personally seen this problem before on the 2011+ mustangs, but its not an uncommon thing to see on other models and older vehicles with a fan concern. I wouldn't know how to avoid it either, but a GT500 fan is smart upgrade over stock.

 

[RFM50]

Ok thanks for the help though.

 

[2012csgt]

I found the problem and it wasn't a relay. I'm pretty sure the reluctor on the side of the fan went bad and fried the plug. Anyone know where I can get a new plug for the wiring harness. I'm lucky this didn't start a fire.

View attachment 15614
View attachment 15615

RC. That is the exact same thing that happened to me. I mean exactly. I found another plug at u pull it and spliced it in. All good now but I still don't know what caused it.

 

[RFM50]

I am really wondering if it has to do with having to move the reluctor when installing a Paxton or Vortech. It may also be getting hotter with the blower and pipping right in front of it.

 

[frogui]

I had the same thing happen, even the pictures are identical. I think I solved it in mine. Took out the thermostat and my temperatures went from a steady 194-197 to 183-186. That was enough to let the fan turn off and on as required. Before I removed the thermostat the fan was ALWAYS ON. I think that is what fried mine. It never goes below 70f down here so I don't worry about warmup. Hope that helps.

 

[RFM50]

That makes sense. I just can't pull my thermostat out. We get some pretty cold winters. It shouldn't be a problem for the fans to run constantly. They have to be on when the AC is on.

 

[frogui]

I think the fan is not the problem it might be the plug can not handle continous duty. You might try moving it so it gets some airflow even if its hot air. Maybe getting the fan to turn on at a higher temp in the tune will help.

 

[JayVee]

I have had this same issue for a couple weeks. I am picking up my new plug today at he dealer to fix the plug. I also live in warmer weather here in Tampa Fl and the car is TT. Besides the obvious plug just going bad, I also felt the relocated fuse box had something to do with it since the cool side piping T Clamps threaded rods were pinning the fuse box against the plug directly and even sitting on top. That imo would give a loose connection or stressed uneven connection causing additional heat. Another factor could be TUNE. The tune can be set for the fans to run continuous. Just some factors I have check or going through to share on a old thread bringing it back to life

My burn was not nearly as bad as OP, nevertheless not a good thing to happen and a frustrating thing to track down to fix. Electrical/cooling issues are always a PITA!

 

[JTS_7]

^

Something being pinned up against a connector would have nothing to do with a loose or uneven comnection. If the plug has no damage and is connected properly it wouldn't make a difference, everything inside a connector is secure and not budging that is their purpose lol.

The only way I see that even being a theory is if it was pushing on the prong/tab to release the connector or in this instance a fried plug like that may give it enough room for an inconsistent connection, which is likely. I have actually had That happen on a customers fuel pump which was traced to his fuse box.

This has happened to 100% factory 5.0s and other makes models for that matter so keep that in mind guys.

 

[11redGT/CS]

So is this more common on boosted cars? Is there a way to minimize the possibility of this happening?