Edelbrock Or Roush Blower?

[Big Ben]

You can imagine but I tried a copy of the Roush 'warranty' tune and it felt like I took the blower off. Maybe if I went from stock to the blower with the standard tune it would be different, the Roush and Edelbrock tunes are ultra-conservative and quite a bit more than 20hp short. But if you are concerned about warranty not much of a choice I guess, I'd rather have the Roush or Edelbrock with the warranty tune than no blower at all

I see your point. For me I'm not so concerned about warranty (I voided mine the second day I had the car ) and my plans will be more than likely a non warrantied nicely tuned TVS. I was merely sympathizing the OP's concerns and I guess now I'm slightly contradicting myself :rockon:

P.S. Those restrictions seem like they could get themselves out of any repair!

 

[jayman33]

Edelbrock's given tune is better than the Roush. Don't know first hand just examples from companies and reading other people's posts. I went with the Whipple, installing next weekend.

 

[kevinp]

TRUTH!! $7k for approximately 1.4 seconds faster isn't in the cards for me. For $7K I could stay N/A and be in the same ball park or even faster.
This is a VERY strict warranty.

I know that w/ the Mustang community, SuperCharging is the norm and a quick, easy way to gain a good 100-150+ WHP, but for the $, staying N/A sounds better to me. $7 buys a LOT of WHP staying N/A, and have it almost on tap, w/out the risk of over-boosting, and less chance of running lean.

I have been down the late model 10 second car route for many years, not just Fords either.

If you add up what it costs to run 10s without being in mineshaft air you will spend around the same amount staying NA and have a less daily driver friendly car when the smoke clears.

You are going to need drag wheels/tires, converter (or clutch), gear swap, headers and ORX, some weight reduction, CAI, tune (a damn good tune), most likely some rear suspension parts (60 foot is everything on limited HP) and in the end the car will stink with no cats and not handle very well with those drag wheels/tires driving it every day. If you have to pay people to do all that work it will easily exceed the cost of the blower and you wont have any warranty, and it will be about even if you just buy the parts. If you start getting into the engine, ported heads, cams then the price goes up even more. These arent small block Chevy's and parts are not cheap for these at all.

A car like mine, except for the power, drives 100% like stock until you floor it and runs 10s with a set of drag radials on the stock wheels. Stock exhaust and suspension parts (save for some lowering springs and PHB to center the rear). Plus there is enough in reserve so if I want it could be a 9 second car with drag wheels tires, suspension and headers. Certainly not for everyone but I like it.

Its a lot of personal preference, some guys look at blowers as 'cheating,' I look at it as achieving my goals (10 second DD) without screwing up a brand new car's ride. Yes its a big up front cash outlay, and I can understand not wanting to spend that much up front.

I really like the overall package of the 2011 with the PD blower. As far as reliability I think more people have broke pistons NA on these than people have with a blower, NA will need more RPM and thats harder on everything in the driveline as well. Of course you can blow it up easily with forced induction, but you cant really overboost a blower unless you swap a pulley, turbo yes, blower no.

Honestly the cheapest way to achieve 10 second status o one of these is a set of drag radials, tune and a 150 shot of nitrous

Main thing is do what works for you have fun with it, not everyone likes the same thing and its certainly more of a challenge to run 10s NA then with a power adder of any sort.

 

[try03venom]

a twin screw with the supplied roush or edelbrock tune isnt that great actually quite boring for the money to fun factor. When you add a smaller pulley and a real tune hold on!

 

[Ditty]

I have been down the late model 10 second car route for many years, not just Fords either.

If you add up what it costs to run 10s without being in mineshaft air you will spend around the same amount staying NA and have a less daily driver friendly car when the smoke clears.

You are going to need drag wheels/tires, converter (or clutch), gear swap, headers and ORX, some weight reduction, CAI, tune (a damn good tune), most likely some rear suspension parts (60 foot is everything on limited HP) and in the end the car will stink with no cats and not handle very well with those drag wheels/tires driving it every day. If you have to pay people to do all that work it will easily exceed the cost of the blower and you wont have any warranty, and it will be about even if you just buy the parts. If you start getting into the engine, ported heads, cams then the price goes up even more. These arent small block Chevy's and parts are not cheap for these at all.

A car like mine, except for the power, drives 100% like stock until you floor it and runs 10s with a set of drag radials on the stock wheels. Stock exhaust and suspension parts (save for some lowering springs and PHB to center the rear). Plus there is enough in reserve so if I want it could be a 9 second car with drag wheels tires, suspension and headers. Certainly not for everyone but I like it.

Its a lot of personal preference, some guys look at blowers as 'cheating,' I look at it as achieving my goals (10 second DD) without screwing up a brand new car's ride. Yes its a big up front cash outlay, and I can understand not wanting to spend that much up front.

I really like the overall package of the 2011 with the PD blower. As far as reliability I think more people have broke pistons NA on these than people have with a blower, NA will need more RPM and thats harder on everything in the driveline as well. Of course you can blow it up easily with forced induction, but you cant really overboost a blower unless you swap a pulley, turbo yes, blower no.

Honestly the cheapest way to achieve 10 second status o one of these is a set of drag radials, tune and a 150 shot of nitrous

Main thing is do what works for you have fun with it, not everyone likes the same thing and its certainly more of a challenge to run 10s NA then with a power adder of any sort.

I'm not going to go off on a "NA is better than FI" (or vise versa) rant. I NEVER said anything about running 10's. Not once. I was SIMPLY saying, for $7k, I could easily be making the same or more power staying n/a than going supercharged. It IS a matter of personal preference. $7k for what, 100-150+ hp just doesn't add up for me. (I'm trying to stay on point w/ the original post as best I can here.) For that $7k, you're looking at about 550WPH. Ok. We've already seen modestly built N/A cars putting down 450-460 WHP right? What'll that run? Ohh about $4-5k(Over estimated price). (CAI/Full Exhaust/Boss Intake/Larger TB/AWESOME Tune) Add another $1000 (way over estimated price) and toss on a nitrous system....spray 100 shot and WHAMMY!!! Probably same or close times and power levels. NO...I have NOT gone into chassis improvements...as that was NOT the direction of the original post. I'm JUST saying.

 

[try03venom]

FI vs Max effort cam heads gears is far superior in drivability,mpg and 1320!

 

[kevinp]

I'm not going to go off on a "NA is better than FI" (or vise versa) rant. I NEVER said anything about running 10's. Not once. I was SIMPLY saying, for $7k, I could easily be making the same or more power staying n/a than going supercharged. It IS a matter of personal preference. $7k for what, 100-150+ hp just doesn't add up for me. (I'm trying to stay on point w/ the original post as best I can here.) For that $7k, you're looking at about 550WPH. Ok. We've already seen modestly built N/A cars putting down 450-460 WHP right? What'll that run? Ohh about $4-5k(Over estimated price). (CAI/Full Exhaust/Boss Intake/Larger TB/AWESOME Tune) Add another $1000 (way over estimated price) and toss on a nitrous system....spray 100 shot and WHAMMY!!! Probably same or close times and power levels. NO...I have NOT gone into chassis improvements...as that was NOT the direction of the original post. I'm JUST saying.

Well the direction of the original post was warranty between two superchargers, not what way of adding power is more cost effective.

As far as warranty a set of headers and a tune voids the warranty just as quick as a blower in Ford's eyes so thats a moot point. But to answer your question a simple 150-175 shot and drag radials should run as quick as my car, but my bottle never goes empty. Is it worth an extra 6K not to fill a bottle? Probably not but thats not the point of the thread either.

Another thing to remember is even if the peak rwhp on the stock PD blower tunes arent way up there that across the board power range increase is pretty nice on a 3800lb or so daily driver.