Well I just purchased the last upgrade for now on my 2013 GT Premium. I ordered the DSS Aluminum driveshaft from AmericanMuscle.com I am looking for some good reviews, actual 1/4 mile gains from this upgrade, and any advice for the installation of the piece. I currently have the SR Performance lowering springs, which lower the car 1.5" all around. That is the only suspension mod I have done, besides a strut tower. As far as other mods, I have an AirAid CAI, Pypes OXP and PipeBomb axel back, Barton 2 Post STS, BAMA 93 race tune and 20" charcoal AMR rims from AmericaMuscle with 285/30 on the rear and 255/35 on front. I am hoping with this set up to get into the high 11s. I haven't been able to get to our local dragstrip, No Problem Raceway, due to crazy weather down here. When the car was stock I was able to get a best of 12.8 at 112 on the trackapp, and now I am getting 12.5 at 120 with easing on to the throttle in first and still getting too much spin on the road. Here is a link to one of my runs showing the times. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDqbYGMFf8I, let me know what y'all think.
DSS Aluminum Driveshaft
- Thread starter ktulu1984
- Start date
mph seem really high. I would try it 3 times and see what they show. When I've used a gtech before it showed like 125mph which was about 6 mph off.
I have been running mine for almost 18 months now and I like it. I've only put 6100 miles on it so far. When you install the pinion flange adapter, be sure to torque the bolts down. The factory torque spec is 41 lbs-ft. Lastly, torque the rear driveshaft flange bolts to 57 lbs-ft and the front flange bolts to 76 lbs-ft.
Wheel spin is going to throw the track app off, as it presumes your moving forward rather than spinning.
JM2C and I'm sure I'll get flamed but you'll never see any real ET gains from a DS swap.
Curious as to why you think that? Just asking
Well dam it then! I just wasted a lot of money on my Mcleod aluminum flywheel and DSS carbon fiber shaft. Guess everyone else wasted money also....Oh well..
Man did the aftermarket pull the sheets over a lot of people's heads then, how could we miss this one?
Man did the aftermarket pull the sheets over a lot of people's heads then, how could we miss this one?
I imagine the incremental gains add up, but each in and of themselves are not game changers? Just trying to see both sides of the argument here.
Eh..excuse my sarcasm I just disagree.
Shedding the physical 10 or 20lb weight alone of the driveshaft, I agree is minimal but because of the high rate of spin exaggerates the effect which is where the real benefit comes from.
Just like with wheels. You would think shedding adding 5-10 lbs per wheel isn't a big deal or affect performance all that much but you would be wrong in thinking that.
Shedding the physical 10 or 20lb weight alone of the driveshaft, I agree is minimal but because of the high rate of spin exaggerates the effect which is where the real benefit comes from.
Just like with wheels. You would think shedding adding 5-10 lbs per wheel isn't a big deal or affect performance all that much but you would be wrong in thinking that.
I've gone from 25 lb wheels to 17 lol I believe you. I know you can FEEL a difference, im just agreeing it may be hard to measure one.
The saved rotational mass will definitely make a difference. From some other peoples comparisons I've seen them gain .15-.20 seconds pretty consistently at the track. I will see for myself once it's on. That's why I was asking for peoples real experience with the mod, not someone who just wants to throw there opinion without actual experience.
DSS told me to torque the rear bolts to 70 ft/lbs. Front was stock at 76 ft/lbs I think. Haven't got mine in yet as the weather has been too cold. Heck, it's been too cold on my days off to even open the car up.
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I didn't get any instructions with my shaft so I E-mailed them. 70 ft/lbs for the rear bolts is what they said. And that's all they said so I thought 70 ft/lbs for the adapter AND shaft. Didn't think that was too far off as they said to torque the front bolts to stock specs. Now I wonder which is right.
The torque settings that I posted are what I used with my DSS shaft and at 6200 miles all had been good so far. It definitely sounds like the DSS may have changed something in their installation instructions because I just looked at my instructions and the only mention of torque settings for the DSS shaft is 57 lbs-ft for the shaft to the adapter plate. I got the front and adapter plate settings from the factory service manual.
Unfortunately the smaller diameter of the DS reduces the overall affect of the weight savings. In other words, the further away you get from the rotational center of an object, the more affect the weight savings will have. But rotational weight saved is always preferred to non, and mustangs are fat pigs, so by all means people, let's get those ponies trimmed down to more reasonable levels.
I sent DSS another E-mail to clarify the rear adapter plate and they replied to torque that to 70 ft/lbs also. So it's 70 ft/lbs for all rear bolts for my shaft. They again said to torque the front bolts to stock specs which I think is 76 ft/lbs. They must have changed something.
What wheel are you running?
You are trying way too hard to minimize the effects that a lighter DS will have and didn't word it very well. You act like the weight saved is meaningless because it's a small diameter driveshaft and that's just wrong.
It's true that it won't give you as much of a benefit if the driveshaft was a 12" diameter but my point is because it's spinning and has inertia the benefit is worth much more than the physical weight savings alone between the two shafts. And since we are talking about a high rate of spin for the shaft the difference is dramatic.
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