I have a jms dry kit on the way and I'm wondering who I should have tune it. I have a Lund tune now. Any one drive around on the dry kit tune when not spraying? I know it will be down on power just wondering how much. Car is a 6 speed 3.31 gear off road x corsa axle back.
Dry kit tune
- Thread starter basspro302
- Start date
It'll suck off the jug. My nitrous tune runs ~7 mph slower in the 1/4 over my 91 NA tune. Plus, nitrous tunes shut off the safety nannies bc they can lead to catastrophic engine damage if you keep shooting nitrous into an engine behind a closed throttle plate or hit a fuel cut limiter. Why don't you just have JMS send you a tune with it?
Jms is sending a tune I was just wondering if anyone else tunes dry kits. I will swap tunes I just wanted to know how it was off the bottle on a nitrous tune with a small shot.
50 to 75 I might step it up to 125 for the track
I run my nitrous tune almost 24/7. Then again, my bottle is open almost 24/7 as well (just have it turned off in-car). Since I have a X4 tuner, switching between tunes isn't something that happens quickly for me, therefore I almost never do. I will for a race against someone who has requested me to be NA or when trying for a good time at the track NA.
To answer your question though; it's gonna be slow on motor running a nitrous tune. Noticeably, even. I mean, you won't struggle to pass the average daily driver or anything crazy like that. But once you get a taste of nitrous, running NA will always seem underwhelming. Especially stepping up to a 150 shot where there's so much timing being pulled to compensate. On motor my car is a turd.
To answer your question though; it's gonna be slow on motor running a nitrous tune. Noticeably, even. I mean, you won't struggle to pass the average daily driver or anything crazy like that. But once you get a taste of nitrous, running NA will always seem underwhelming. Especially stepping up to a 150 shot where there's so much timing being pulled to compensate. On motor my car is a turd.
I have a nitrous tune n reg tune from Lund. They'll pull some timing on the nitrous tune but you'll still need to data log it so the tuner can see how it's acting.
But it will feel a little slower if you stay on the nitrous tune driving around and going wot without nitrous.
But it will feel a little slower if you stay on the nitrous tune driving around and going wot without nitrous.
Last edited:
Don't waste time on a 50-75. You need to run at least 100 on this car to meaningfully feel it, as the car is heavy and smooth. 100 picked up 8 mph in the 1/4 for me on the first shakedown pass.
Does any one know the strategy they use on a dry tune for fueling? Is it all done with the factory widebands?
I was looking into which plate and came across the Bbr reaper kit and the jms. I was reading that the dry kits are pretty good due to the pcm in these cars although I want to know the strategy they use for tuning fuel
It's pretty standard...pull some timing, add some pulse width to the injector cycle under WOT...done.
That's the basics I was looking for a more Indepth response just out of curiosity. I had to ask because Lund and aed won't tune dry kits only wet. Which makes me wonder why.
That's easy: the headroom isn't really there in the stock fuel system. The injectors aren't that big and no one wants to tune them to more than 80% duty cycle. So it caps you out at what that will support on a setup where the ECM caps the fuel pressure at 58 psi max. A boost a pump would help here but, you're still going to max out the injector pretty quickly.
I understand the limits of the stock injectors so why wouldn't they say upgrade the injectors. I don't understand why tho. it seems like jms and bbr are they only ones who will tune a dry kit. It's like with the e85 tunes they used to tune on stock injectors for na then they said we only tune if you have 48lb injectors or larger. Hopefully a tunner can chime in.
There really isn't a good way to tune for a dry kit. On these cars you command your WOT lambda and let the widebands correct the fueling. It works, but not a great idea IMO. If your widebands fail to read, which I've seen happen for different reasons, you just bought yourself a new engine.
Back in the day with return style fuel systems, we'd essentially deadhead the fuel system to get pressures up close to 100 psi at the injector and that'd do it but, these cars are making a shit load more power to start with and then you add the shot so, not as easy and easier to cause kaboom if you get it wrong.
The wet plate like I have is dead nuts simple to tune at the shot I am at, 100.
The wet plate like I have is dead nuts simple to tune at the shot I am at, 100.
Well I went to fill my "brand new"bottle today and they wouldn't fill it because the date code had been ground down and restamped.
Wow, really? Who'd you buy the kit from, jms directly? You can recertify bottles but, not that way....
Users who are viewing this thread
