Dropping the IRS. Suggestions?

Blown10thCobra

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Here in the next week or two I'm going to be dropping my IRS assembly to clean it up, install some Full Tilt Boogie bushings, and a few other odds and ends. I was just curious if there was anything that would be good to do while I had it out? Anything that's maybe tough to get to to replace while the IRS is in, etc.


Thanks for the advice in advance guys!! :thumbsup:
 

mineral154

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irs

i had mine out not to long ago double check the pumkin gasket or replace with a stronger cover/add a brace before wheel hop gets it you wont want to do this twice find a good shop to get it aligned (my car still isnt right) and index your upper cam bolts on the spindle(most shops wont adjust this if you get it wrong) double check the radius rods one of mine was bent and get the cobra cd or shop manual...good luck
 

Blown10thCobra

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I plan on doing a Billetflow brace, Full Tilt Boogie bushings, I was going to have the backlash on the rear end checked out, possibly Billetflow IRS mount brackets, and new IRS bolts. I plan on changing the car to a return style fuel system so I'll change all of that out for new. Eventually new suspension will be done on all four corners seeing how this will be a road course specific car, but right now I'm mainly concentrating on any mods the IRS has to be out for.


Mineral thanks for the tips on the rear end. My dad works at a dealership as a service writer so I'll get with him on who his best person in the shop about rear ends is, give him all the correct specs, and get all of that checked out and correct.


Yellow03 I won't be running nitrous on this car so that won't be an issue :)


This step is the first of many in a fairly large and extensive build on this car that I'm going to be working on over the next year or so. I'm shooting for the 900WHP range on race gas, off the bottle. I can't wait to pull the motor hehe :)
 
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bubblehead93

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f_thumb.gif


Get the fore precision works cover rather than the cover brace - it is more expensive, but the brace is a bandaid for the stock cover. The fore piece is stout and includes adjusters to put pre-load on the bearing caps and provisions built in for a differential cooler (consider if you are actually going to track the car). While your in there stud the differential bearing caps. 900 rwhp, ditch the factory limited slip, you said road course so a torsen would probably be best but I have no idea how one would handle 900 rwhp so I would likely go with a detroit locker. I would do every bushing in the rear while you had it out - differential, sub-frame, control arms, sway bar as well as the rear tie rods, either FTB or MM (not sure if the FTB fixes bumpsteer, the MM does). If it is a track only car I would go for urethane sub-frame and aluminum differential bushings, delrin for the control arms, and spherical bearings for the cross-axis joints. If your goal is 900 rwhp on the track do alot of homework first so you don't have to undo things later. I could go on and on, so I'll stop.
 

Blown10thCobra

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I won't run 900 on the track, that'd just be dumb. I want to be able to drive this car, not baby it like I'm driving on glass because there's too much power while coming thru a corner. I want to be ABLE to hit that HP range to turn it up if I want to, on the track I doubt I'll ever turn it up over 550-600. It's mainly going to be a car that I'll still drive around town if I want to, take to the road course (Mainly VIR and CMP), and POSSIBLY take it to the strip once or twice, although I doubt I will.


Bubblehead you're close to me, you ever go to VIR? And feel free to go on and on haha, I'm in no rush to finish this car and only want to do and buy the best to put on it, that's why I'm asking all the questions now :) I had in my plans to replace all the bushings in the IRS with the delrin FTB kit, do a MM bumpsteer, KW Variant 3 or Penske coilovers, and do something with the sway bars (Not sure yet, haven't finished doing my HW there yet). You've got basically the same exhaust setup I'm ordering other than I'm running a Borla Stinger instead of the Magnaflow. If you're ever down this way or headed to VIR I'd love to check out your Cobra.
 

wjurls

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Get the fore precision works cover rather than the cover brace - it is more expensive, but the brace is a bandaid for the stock cover. The fore piece is stout and includes adjusters to put pre-load on the bearing caps and provisions built in for a differential cooler (consider if you are actually going to track the car). While your in there stud the differential bearing caps. 900 rwhp, ditch the factory limited slip, you said road course so a torsen would probably be best but I have no idea how one would handle 900 rwhp so I would likely go with a detroit locker. I would do every bushing in the rear while you had it out - differential, sub-frame, control arms, sway bar as well as the rear tie rods, either FTB or MM (not sure if the FTB fixes bumpsteer, the MM does). If it is a track only car I would go for urethane sub-frame and aluminum differential bushings, delrin for the control arms, and spherical bearings for the cross-axis joints. If your goal is 900 rwhp on the track do alot of homework first so you don't have to undo things later. I could go on and on, so I'll stop.

To do this I hope you're a serious baller LOL. Just the Torsen and Fore cover together will exceed $1,400. By the time you're done you will spend well over $2K. I wish I had that kind of scratch.....;-) Billetflow brace and stock trac-loc are a little more my speed. I wish I could go nuts like this though.
 

P49Y-CY

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^yup

i have been saving for quite a bit to do my irs with no skimping. i anticipate a $2500 nut when all is said and done!

and that is with me doing most of the labor
 
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Blown10thCobra

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Let's just say in 2008 I was hit off my 05 R1 by an old man in a Jaguar and I did ok in my settlement haha. At 21 I've got a new 09 R1 to replace my 05, an 07 Sierra SLT Z71, and the Cobra, all paid for by me. I took a near-death situation, and possibly an awful situation, and made the best of it haha. It's been my dream to have a car done up like this my whole life, and the way I see it I may never have a better opportunity than now, so I'm going to take my time, take as long as it takes, and only get the best. Thanks for your input guys, let's keep the info coming! :)
 

bubblehead93

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I won't run 900 on the track, that'd just be dumb. I want to be able to drive this car, not baby it like I'm driving on glass because there's too much power while coming thru a corner. I want to be ABLE to hit that HP range to turn it up if I want to, on the track I doubt I'll ever turn it up over 550-600. It's mainly going to be a car that I'll still drive around town if I want to, take to the road course (Mainly VIR and CMP), and POSSIBLY take it to the strip once or twice, although I doubt I will.


Bubblehead you're close to me, you ever go to VIR? And feel free to go on and on haha, I'm in no rush to finish this car and only want to do and buy the best to put on it, that's why I'm asking all the questions now :) I had in my plans to replace all the bushings in the IRS with the delrin FTB kit, do a MM bumpsteer, KW Variant 3 or Penske coilovers, and do something with the sway bars (Not sure yet, haven't finished doing my HW there yet). You've got basically the same exhaust setup I'm ordering other than I'm running a Borla Stinger instead of the Magnaflow. If you're ever down this way or headed to VIR I'd love to check out your Cobra.

Be careful what you ask for in asking me to go on and on. If I'm ever down towards VIR I'll definitely give you a shout ahead of time - would love to see your car too. Right now I'm waiting for my tuner to get his widebands back from calibration so we can finish the tune on my current set-up. The 430 rwhp/460 rwtq was just the initial baseline tune (rich with the alot of timing pulled) before his widebands crapped out (if it was'nt for bad luck...). Can't wait to see what it puts down once we get the fuel and timing squared away, hopefully this weekend. Starting to accumulate parts to convert over to a ported eaton once the snow flies. Having my mid-life crisis combined with the means to pursue it is dangerous.

With regards to the differential cover, yeah its a $700 piece. My experience with 8.8's is mostly with SRA - F-150 and mustang, not the aluminum carrier in the cobra. I've destroyed enough differentials and ring/pinions over the years that I would rather go big early than have to buy another ring/pinion/differential later. That being said, you could invest in the cover now and then replace the ring/pinion/differential down the road when it fails.

I do need to take a couple of pictures of the car just for posting purposes...
 

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