Drag Performance: Estimates?

LogiWorld123

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There is no doubt in my mind that the cars are ~200 hp.

There is also no doubt in my mind that the torque is just horrible, and should have been raised by at LEAST 25 lbs-ft.
 

Green SVT

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Matt, you can eat my shorts. :p

RT, exactly. I have a '00 that dynoed 156- 159. Thats a heck of a lot of drivetrain loss to equal 200 crank. Yet I've seen people with the 3L who can't break 15.0. Whaddup with that?

-R-
 

CB99SVT

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Yet I have seen people with 3L who can't break 15.0.

Even with the 3L these cars are fairly heavy and must be driven hard to get the full potential. The first time I took my SVT to the track it only went about 89 mph and my best ET was 15.14 IIRC. The next time I went I decided to get more aggressive and times dropped to mid 14's at a little over 94 mph. My best run I had no tire spin which caused the motor to bog and I hit the fuel cutoff in third. If I ever get around to dyno tuning and am able to use more RPM I believe 14.2's-14.3's are possible.
 

Dustyn

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Originally posted by CB99SVT
Even with the 3L these cars are fairly heavy and must be driven hard to get the full potential. The first time I took my SVT to the track it only went about 89 mph and my best ET was 15.14 IIRC. The next time I went I decided to get more aggressive and times dropped to mid 14's at a little over 94 mph. My best run I had no tire spin which caused the motor to bog and I hit the fuel cutoff in third. If I ever get around to dyno tuning and am able to use more RPM I believe 14.2's-14.3's are possible.
What size of drag radials are you using? I'm am getting out of debt soon and I might feel the need to break my car again.:burnout:
 

Ryan

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what is your defination of 'driving it hard'?

I think it comes down more to skill / practice, with FWD cars.
 

CB99SVT

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I was using 225/50/16 but I don't think Nitto makes that size anylonger. I will probably use a shorter tire in the future to lower the gearing a little to help it get moving. I should also tell you that even with drag radials my average 60' times were probably around 2.15. If you use drag radials you will find that it still is hard to launch, too little RPM=bog too much RPM=wheelspin, in other words it is still a very fine line to getting it right. I have several slips where I ran in the 14.50's & 14.60s with 60' times in the 2.15 to 2.25 range but I hit all the gears and didn't hit the fuel cutoff.
 
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CB99SVT

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In order to get 2.04 60' I dumped the clutch at about 5200 RPM and the motor still bogged very bad. On the next pass I tried to go up to 5500 and it spun through first and into second gear. The first time at the track I was a little worried about breaking CV shafts but they as well as the stock clutch have all held up quite well.
 

LogiWorld123

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Originally posted by Green SVT
Matt, you can eat my shorts. :p

RT, exactly. I have a '00 that dynoed 156- 159. Thats a heck of a lot of drivetrain loss to equal 200 crank. Yet I've seen people with the 3L who can't break 15.0. Whaddup with that?

-R-

How much do the E1 style wheels weigh?
 

DemonSVT

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Originally posted by Green SVT
RT, exactly. I have a '00 that dynoed 156- 159. Thats a heck of a lot of drivetrain loss to equal 200 crank.

Sorry to here that. Mine dyno'd at over 187FWHP & 169FWTQ many moons ago. (that's roughly 230HP/190TQ at the crank)

I'm definitely in the high 190's now with all the mods I have done since (headers, UIM, LIM - increased my trap speeds nearly 2mph - that's pure indication of HP) & soon to be better yet (Duals, custom programming, few homebrews. etc)

I'd suggest getting an wideband A/F readout. $10 says you are getting deadly fat above 5000rpm! It's known problem with the OEM tuning.
 

DemonSVT

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Originally posted by Green SVT
Demon, can I get an A/F readout from the dealer or do I have to wait until I dyno again?

You get a wideband O2 reading while on a dyno.
 

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