Down on power.

[MG0h3]

Yeah, empty tank. Points are on the short list, as is checking timing. So much to do!

I was joking. Your car doesn’t have points.

These cars did best at 14* advance.

Make sure you pull the spout connector while setting the timing.

It’s a square block of plastic in a plug right next to the distributor.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Mustang5L5]

Might want to dump engine codes as well while you are going through all this. These pre-OBD2 cars don't always display the CEL when a code is present, and you need to run the codes with the engine off, AND with the engine running.

Might want to just do a full basic tune-up.

Plugs
cap
rotor
fuel filter
air filter (if needed)

Set timing, check plug gap, verify fuel pressure.


I'd start there alone with reporting back any of the codes you get.

 

[03blackvert]

Keeping you guys in the loop here.

Easy stuff I did first. New air filter. New battery. New fuel filter. Oh, and new wiper blades, but those won't change how it runs!

Key on, engine off:
I think that's a "system pass", but check me.

Key on, engine on:
Which looks like a 1 1 to me, or system ok.

I also did the cylinder test (blipped the throttle) and it cycled through and I got 9 blinks at the end which I believe means all cylinders passed.

Would appreciate if one of you would check me on interpreting the codes correctly.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yup. Two code 11's plus a CBT of 9. All good.

Also, airbag light is a code 51. See below link for info on that

Mustang 1992 Air Bag Diagnostic Codes

www.veryuseful.com

 

[03blackvert]

Thanks for the airbag info. I don't think the airbag light was on before I replaced the battery. Is there some dance that needs to be done after a battery replacement?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Thanks for the airbag info. I don't think the airbag light was on before I replaced the battery. Is there some dance that needs to be done after a battery replacement?

No.

How long ago was battery replaced? That link does have some diagnostic steps you can undertake. I would set it aside for now and get the car running well and then go back and revisit.

 

[03blackvert]

Battery was replaced about 4 days ago. I've got an appointment with a proper expert on Thursday, I'll let them look it over and pay them the big bucks for it. I barely qualify as a shade tree mechanic, just trying to take care of some simple stuff if possible to save some $$.

 

[Mustang5L5]

How many drive cycles did you have before oyu pulled the codes? Swapping the battery reset the ECU, so you would really need a couple drive cycles before pulling codes.

However, usually if there isn't enough you get a code 19, so you getting code 11's is a good sign that all is well.

Fingers crossed it's something simple.

 

[03blackvert]

I will post a full summary on Friday. While I'm barely a shade tree mechanic I think the motor may be the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel filter and it got a bit better, which tells me it was clogged clogged clogged. Which makes me wonder what the insides of the fuel pump look like, but also if it was damaged trying to pump through such a clogged filter.

The engine fires right up, sounds great at idle, has never missed when I've driven it, and passes all the built in diagnostics.

I am worried about the transmission though. It's not shifting quite right, which may contribute to the down on power feeling. I'm worried the answer is going to be a full rebuild and the $$$ that takes. But we'll see what the mechanic says, maybe there's an adjustment, or it just needs a fluid flush. The fluid is likely older than it should be.

 

[03blackvert]

I have what I hope is positive news, but won't know for sure for a couple of days.

The first surprise is wheel locks under the covers and no key! Fortunately the shop had two master key sets and it only took a few minutes to find the right one. I had them replace those with regular lug nuts as I don't have the key! I don't plan on parking it anywhere that will be a problem anyway.

We got new tires on it, alignment and oil change. The oil looked really good coming out, and the tech noticed the filter had markings they switched to about 18 months ago. I had worried it might not have been maintained properly recently, but that provides some good evidence to the contrary.

What about the power issue? Well, it turns out to be a 5 cent piece of plastic. On the bottom of the throttle is a metal plate with a hole. Into that goes a bushing, or grommet, or dohicky, or I dunno. Into that plugs in the kick down cable. Said bushing was 30 years old and had exploded into about 20 plastic shards, leaving the cable disconnected.

There was a mad search to find the bushing, calls to every parts house in town. But no joy. Not a part to be had. So back home it came in that state. There is good news though, CJ's Pony Parts has a proper replacement and so after paying $40 for a 5 cent piece of plastic I will have a replacement on Saturday. If all goes well I pop that in, reconnect the cable, and life is good!

However, the tech said it does not take long with them disconnected to burn up the third gear clutches. I think it broke when it got here and I've only put about 4-5 easy miles on it, so I'm somewhat optimistic they aren't burned up. But if the disconnect did burn them up transmission rebuild here we come.

Will update when the part arrives.

 

[OX1]

I have what I hope is positive news, but won't know for sure for a couple of days.

The first surprise is wheel locks under the covers and no key! Fortunately the shop had two master key sets and it only took a few minutes to find the right one. I had them replace those with regular lug nuts as I don't have the key! I don't plan on parking it anywhere that will be a problem anyway.

We got new tires on it, alignment and oil change. The oil looked really good coming out, and the tech noticed the filter had markings they switched to about 18 months ago. I had worried it might not have been maintained properly recently, but that provides some good evidence to the contrary.

What about the power issue? Well, it turns out to be a 5 cent piece of plastic. On the bottom of the throttle is a metal plate with a hole. Into that goes a bushing, or grommet, or dohicky, or I dunno. Into that plugs in the kick down cable. Said bushing was 30 years old and had exploded into about 20 plastic shards, leaving the cable disconnected.

There was a mad search to find the bushing, calls to every parts house in town. But no joy. Not a part to be had. So back home it came in that state. There is good news though, CJ's Pony Parts has a proper replacement and so after paying $40 for a 5 cent piece of plastic I will have a replacement on Saturday. If all goes well I pop that in, reconnect the cable, and life is good!

However, the tech said it does not take long with them disconnected to burn up the third gear clutches. I think it broke when it got here and I've only put about 4-5 easy miles on it, so I'm somewhat optimistic they aren't burned up. But if the disconnect did burn them up transmission rebuild here we come.

Will update when the part arrives.

I didn't realize you were talking an auto. But yes, not hard to damage with the TV cable misaligned. My fox LTD has a built AOD in it and to make sure I'm good, I put a guage mounted under the hood with SS flex line down to port on trans. That way, I can check idle pressure often (and if idle is good, the rest usually is, unless linkage is hosed like you had).

https://f01.justanswer.com/y1eiPO1r/FORD_AOD_TV_Rod_Adjustment.pdf

 

[03blackvert]

My car is a bit different, I found a procedure that seems to reference it though. It's a "BLOCK TYPE-TV CABLE ADJUSTMENT":

Ford AOD Transmission

However, I'm not sure what this means:

ROAD TEST
In manual "3", must have 3-2 kickdown at 50 mph (passenger cars).

It doesn't say anything about how much throttle. Is that a 3-2 kick down at 50MPH when floored? With the accelerator pressed gently?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ah the ole kickdown bushing.

Back when my car was an auto, i had this bushing fail on me as well. Drove around a good 5-10 miles or so wondering what the hell the problem was before I discovered it.

I came up with a decent shade-tree fix using a rubber bushing and a clip I had. It worked well and I think i drove around several more years and another 20-30K miles without issue until I 5-spd swapped the car.

I still have the AOD. Part of me keeps looking on FB marketplace for a nice clean GT vert being sold cheaply with a slipping AOD.

 

[Mustang5L5]

It doesn't say anything about how much throttle. Is that a 3-2 kick down at 50MPH when floored? With the accelerator pressed gently?

IIRC, my old AOD used to kick down around 50% throttle. It's been a while though.

I always thought it was best to use a gauge and measure TV pressure when setting the cable.

 

[03blackvert]

Let me ask this question, what other parts would you replace on a 30 year old fox body 5.0 if they appeared to be original?

After the bushing finding, I think I'm going to prioritize replacing the flexible brake hoses front and rear. The hard lines look fine, but trusting 30 year old hoses in an emergency braking situation does not seem like a good idea. I also know the shocks are doing approximately nothing and need to go to make it ride and handle a lot better.

You can exclude all new fluids, I'm working through those. I also already did air filter, fuel filter, battery, and serpentine belt. During the alignment they inspected the tie rod ends and ball joints and found no play or cause for concern.

Some items I wonder about. I think it has original rotor, wires, and spark plugs. Sway bar bushings? Motor mounts? Are there any other stupid plastic bushings that are going to disintegrate on me?

 

[OX1]

I would look over the "salt and pepper" connectors. See if they are brittle.
I'm on the fence on if I would pull them apart for inspection. A lot of times, they
have issues starting in the pins, but if they are a little brittle, you might be
opening a cam of worms you did not need to.

This article has good info, not just about removing those connectors, which I am not recommending unless they are really hosed.

The Salt & Pepper shakers (10-pin engine harness connectors)

More often than not, these black and white engine harness connectors (Salt and Pepper shakers) are blamed for a host of EFI problems including surging idle. I've personally seen this...

www.foxstang.com

I would also check visual condition of TFI, Coil, and Injector connectors. They all take beating from heat. Depending upon mileage, I might even replace distr pickup, TFI, and coil, for S&G.

 

[03blackvert]

I will investigate the Salt & Pepper connectors, that's an interesting one! Thanks for the other suggestions.

I was looking into the airbag code, it looks like I have to replace the Airbag Diagnostic Module, and it looks like no one makes them anymore? Anyone know a source for NOS?

 

[03blackvert]

Well, I have sad news to report. Transmission needs a rebuild. Won't go into overdrive, and the fluid has a burnt smell. That stupid little plastic bushing.

 

[MG0h3]

Well, I have sad news to report. Transmission needs a rebuild. Won't go into overdrive, and the fluid has a burnt smell. That stupid little plastic bushing.

Might as well go TH400 and twin turbo!


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[gimmie11s]

Might as well go TH400 and twin turbo!


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Lmao

Ls swap and be done w/it


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app