Do I Dare Install Clutch Quadrant And Firewall Adjuster Myself??

Cold Brew

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Just picked up a fiore clutch quadrant + Firewall Adjuster.

Every write up I see for installing says to jack up the car and take the clutch cable off from the transmission end. I don't have ramps or anything to jack the car up right now as Im in an apartment complex.

If I take the seat out (should be easy?) , will I be able to install this myself? Im just worried I wont be able to get it right and end up having to have the car towed. I will be doing this alone as I just moved a ways away. Will I be ok? Will I be able to get it adjusted properly by myself?

Or should I just have a shop do it?
 

JB

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as long as you're retaining the stock cable (which you definitely should), there is no need to go under car

it is pretty easy to do...I used a writeup on mustangworld.com when I did mine back in 2002
 
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wheelhopper

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JB said:
as long as you're retaining the stock cable (which you definitely should), there is no need to go under car

it is pretty easy to do...

+1, easy to do and keep the stock cable.
 

Blown04GT

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Watch your fingers when you take the stock quadrant off, it had mine hurting for a few days. When you pull it off, there is a spring behind that will try and take a finger off.

No need to take the seat off, just put the steering wheel all the way up and pull the seat all the way back and you should have plenty of room. You should be able to do it by yourself, just pay attention when you take the stock stuff off so you know how the aftermarket one goes.
 

JB

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I just remembered that proper adjustment technique DOES require access from underneath because you really should be verifying gap between TOB & PP when pedal is at rest

I adjust mine with engine fully warmed up and running while the car is on stands
 
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suaveflooder

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It's very easy....took me about an hour or so to get the old one off, new one on and adjusted....but then again, I've done it on a lot of mustangs
 

Cold Brew

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JB said:
I just remembered that proper adjustment technique DOES require access from underneath because you really should be verifying gap between TOB & PP when pedal is at rest

I adjust mine with engine fully warmed up and running while the car is on stands

Thats what Im worried about too. I really dont want to screw up the adjustment and fry my TOB. I guess if I just adjust it so its not completely at the very top of the travel of the pedal it should be fine, right???
 

JB

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well, if I were you I'd listen carefully as you adjust cable tighter with engine running

you *should* be able to hear the bearing start to spin as it comes in contact with spinning PP and then you can back off a bit from there.....guess it depends on how loud your car is at idle :)

because of thermal expansion I like to get it finalized with everything heated up, including clutch
 
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Cold Brew

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JB said:
well, if I were you I'd listen carefully as you adjust cable tighter with engine running

you *should* be able to hear the bearing start to spin as it comes in contact with spinning PP and then you can back off a bit from there.....guess it depends on how loud your car is at idle :)

because of thermal expansion I like to get it finalized with everything heated up, including clutch

hmm maybe i could try that
 

JB

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I think that sitting in the car there's no way you won't be able to hear the bearing spin

you could even take off shifter boot...
 
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AzianStang

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Blown04GT said:
Watch your fingers when you take the stock quadrant off, it had mine hurting for a few days. When you pull it off, there is a spring behind that will try and take a finger off.

No need to take the seat off, just put the steering wheel all the way up and pull the seat all the way back and you should have plenty of room. You should be able to do it by yourself, just pay attention when you take the stock stuff off so you know how the aftermarket one goes.
Werd... tackle it yourself and take your time, it's easy!
 

Screamin Cobra

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Here, I posted this up earlier for someone else doing the same thing. This is MM's instructions. Goodluck!

1. Lift up on the clutch pedal, all the way, to release the
self adjusting quadrant mechanism.

2. Push the top of the quadrant towards the firewall then
disconnect the cable from the quadrant.

3. From under the hood, remove the screw that holds the
clutch cable to the firewall.

4. Pull the clutch cable out of the firewall.

5. For 94+ cables, skip to step 8. For 79-93 cables,
remove the rubber bushing from the end of the cable
housing.

6. Using diagonal cutters, a file or utility knife, remove the
four tabs from the end of the housing if present.

7. Insert the clutch cable into Firewall Adjuster. While
holding the clutch cable housing in one hand, turn the
knurled part of the Firewall Adjuster with the other
hand. It should spin smoothly and some resistance is
OK. If the adjuster does not fully engage or is difficult
to turn, further trimming will be needed. Skip to step
17.

8. For 94+ cables, use a small screw driver, pry back the
tabs on the metal lock washer. Remove the lock
washer from the end of the cable housing.

9. Remove the metal/foam gasket from the end of the
cable housing.

10. Unclip and remove the plastic firewall mount from end
of the cable housing. It will be captured on the cable
and unable to pass over the end of the cable.

11. Use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut through one side
of the plastic firewall mount. Remove it from the clutch
cable. Be careful to avoid accidentally cutting the
cable.

12. With a flat blade screw driver, pry the rubber bushing
from the end of the cable housing.

13. Lightly sand the casting flash in the recessed part of
the cable housing until smooth.

14. Push the supplied rubber bushing over the nose of the
clutch cable housing making sure it is fully seated in
the recess.
Note: Before installing in the car, you will need to check
the operation of the Firewall Adjuster on the clutch
cable.

15. Slip the Firewall Adjuster over the rubber bushing.
Push the firewall adjuster until it is fully seated against
the face of the clutch cable housing.

16. While holding the clutch cable housing in one hand,
turn the knurled part of the Firewall Adjuster with the
other hand. It should spin smoothly with some resistance.
If it is difficult to turn you will need to remove the
firewall adjuster, pry the rubber bushing from the nose
of the clutch cable housing and repeat steps 13
through 16 sanding slightly more in step 13.
Note: A small amount of resistance is desired so the
clutch adjustment does not move accidently.

17. Remove the Firewall Adjuster from the clutch cable.

18. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the
threads of the Firewall Adjuster. You can use brush-on
or spray-on. Wipe away any excess.

19. Install the Firewall Adjuster and secure it to the
firewall using the new longer screw provided. It may be
necessary to use a file to clean up the hole in the
firewall.

20. Screw the Firewall Adjuster in all the way.

21. Insert the clutch cable into the Firewall Adjuster.

22. Reattach the cable to the quadrant.

23. Adjust the Firewall Adjuster so the cable is
slightly loose. Check by pulling on the clutch cable
housing near the firewall adjuster. There should be a
small gap. Over tightening the cable will cause the
throwout bearing to be continuously engaged and
prematurely wear out.


For some pictures, click on the link.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/i...rsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=install

...thats if you have not gotten it by now.
 

mkscobra01

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yeah man, you got this. The instructions that come with the kit are pretty straight forward. The only thing I didn't do was drill out bigger holes when mounting my fwa. I just retained the factory screws and used two of em' instead of four. (pita)
 

Cold Brew

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Kilgore Trout said:
I found it to be very helpful to disconnect the clutch cable at the trans when I did mine...

I should be able to do it without doing that though, right?
 

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