PM 04compgt, that's his username here.
DIY drop in E85 fuel system for ~800 bucks. Anyone interested?
- Thread starter CPRsm
- Start date
PM 04compgt, that's his username here.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1032560-13-GT500-fuel-pump-system-in-11-GT-s
Good to see that someone else was working on it..
Good to see that someone else was working on it..
800rwhp +/-. 16.5-17 lbs of boost (VMP Gen2), e85. In-car video in sig w/slip.
This was only the second pass on the new motor, I only have the two so far.. 9.94 and 9.69. They boot me after I get a run so I don't get to tune at the track, and both times I've identified either issues (9.94) or opportunities (9.69) to go faster. With no hardware changes, I think 9.4-9.5 is definitely possible as she sits.
So whats your plan for next year? cage install, or run at a different track? I made 42 passes this year with the slowest being 10.09. My track doesn't throw you out as long as we run No Time on the Boards...
So when is this write up coming Dustin? You're slacking. Lol
See post 44
Damn not enough info for me to tackle it myself. If someone does this they should do a write up with pics/part numbers
Since the part number isn't included for the OEM GT500 fuel hat I'm not sure of the price, couldn't find it on tasca. Without knowing that price, was just curious about using the on3 fuel hat. It looks like a nice piece.
The hat $291
Fuel Hat Fuel Pump Block Off Plugs: Needed for DUAL Pump Setup(Blocks 3rd Pump Port) +$3.00
Fuel Pump 8ga Wiring Kit w/ 2 Relays (2 Pump Setup) +$89.00
One thing I did run in to was that the on3 hat only supports 320lph pumps - a quote from their site:
"Our fuel hat is designed to be ran with the 340 or 342 series pumps."
So that leaves the Walbro 465s out of the equation. So it isn't going to support as much as the GT500 setup. Should be quite a bit cheaper though assuming you can get it to work with the stock feed line and run your own return line (not sure what all it entails, never messed with a fuel system before other than injectors and bap lol).
Just something else to think about... I personally don't really need anything that supports over 750rwhp on E85. I only plan on running around 700rwhp anyways with my paxton setup wastegated at 10psi, just want a little overhead. If I did decide to build the motor, I could add another relay and fuel pump to this hat (holds 3 total).
Any opinions?
The hat $291
Fuel Hat Fuel Pump Block Off Plugs: Needed for DUAL Pump Setup(Blocks 3rd Pump Port) +$3.00
Fuel Pump 8ga Wiring Kit w/ 2 Relays (2 Pump Setup) +$89.00
One thing I did run in to was that the on3 hat only supports 320lph pumps - a quote from their site:
"Our fuel hat is designed to be ran with the 340 or 342 series pumps."
So that leaves the Walbro 465s out of the equation. So it isn't going to support as much as the GT500 setup. Should be quite a bit cheaper though assuming you can get it to work with the stock feed line and run your own return line (not sure what all it entails, never messed with a fuel system before other than injectors and bap lol).
Just something else to think about... I personally don't really need anything that supports over 750rwhp on E85. I only plan on running around 700rwhp anyways with my paxton setup wastegated at 10psi, just want a little overhead. If I did decide to build the motor, I could add another relay and fuel pump to this hat (holds 3 total).
Any opinions?
I have a question regarding the wiring. seeing as the stock pump runs off varying voltage , I assume there would need to be voltage changes made in the tune for the new primary pump if it was wired like the stock pump. then a dedicated power wire would be run off a hobbs switch to the 2nd pump. that about right?
CPRsm
Active Member
We've left them varying voltage if you wire the car directly to one pump and the other to a hobbswitch.
You use a 13/14 GT500 Hat... As it comes.
I run this style system in my '15, and just upgraded to ID1300 injectors and a VMP BAP that I "de-tuned" to 16.6V.
Works pretty good for me.
I know this thread is old but...
kelly,
Are you still running the factory feed line? Or did you put the adapters on to run -8 ???
Not feeling that froggy lol
Like I said, this is pretty simple. So the details will be minimal, but will include the basics to get 'er done.
13-14 Gt500 parts list
Fuel hat pigtail
Cu2z14s411TA
This is the pig tail for the Gt500 hat. You can run your old yellow power wire from the old pump to one of the new pumps, or use it to trigger the main relay. If you run the yellow wire to the relay, tell your tuner. You do not want varying voltage to a relay requiring 12v.
We use a hobb switch for the second pump.
Adapter for return. This is just a nitrous adapter fitting to supply the nitrous kit with fuel. Here we'll use it as a return instead. Let the pump feed the injectors first, and return what is not needed. Feed this return into pretty much any boost referenced regulator. Feed it in the side of the regulator. Then use the return port on the regulator as normal, and run back to tank. There you will have tapped the top of the Gt500 hat for a 90 deg return fitting. I like -6 for the return especially for stock cars so we don't see a fuel pressure spike on shifts:
Fuel line adapter. This is a fitting we use. The factory fuel line is already 3/8 but came w 5/16 on the hat for some reason. The '15's came with 3/8 already so this change isn't needed.
At the end of the fitting you will need to trim a little off the pump side so it till engage the gt500 nipple. The nipple is a bit short compared to the length the fitting needs to grab. You can remove the inner plastic to test fit before putting fitting on.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-800-08...el-to-3-8-In-Nylon-T-/161880957126?nav=SEARCH
Fuel line repair tool. This the correct tool to install the fitting. It basically forces the fitting into the nylon hose. If you have a brake line flare tool, you can use the clamp that would normally hold the brake line if you want. Force it on by hand from there. Can't be a crybaby if you want to do it by hand though. Gonna take some force lol
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-800-301?seid=srese1&gclid=CMCmnuHLmskCFQOUaQodbY8JUA
If you want to get crazy there are things you could do to make this a little better. Could use the original feed as a return, and weld on fittings to the rails and feed them equally.
You can also add a BAP on these for a gt500 if you really want to stretch it. Go forth and use your savings to buy a turbo kit lol. Enjoy ladies. :coolman::thumbsup:
I just wanted to say thanks for this write up.
I'm all over it. Parts are ordered. I'm just not sure if the factory feedline will support the volume. Right now my F1A on e60 at 22v w/jms is having a runaway lambda above 7200. and i spin it 8k+. It works Ok on E30. But not enough Timing. I wonder if I'm going to need a dual jms. to be able to run e80+.. We will find out soon!
Stock feed with this setup has been proven for nearly 1000rwhp on a TT auto car.
Was that on Race Gas or E85?
Sooo i'm just trying to wrap my head around this... So one pump will be connected to the one relay like the stock single pump, and run like the stock single pump. And the other will turn on from a direct 12v fused line from the battery off a hobbs switch (once in boost). Am i correct?
Anyone? Bueller....?
Hobbs switch will activate 12v off batt via a relay. (Think you knew that though)
Right, I just wanted to see what I said is all I needed to do for the wiring. I'm about to start buying parts soon. I just picked up a used gt500 2013 hat/pumps for 150$.
What about heat from both pumps being on all the time. My fuel gets hot after a long ride with both pumps on all the time. I mean hot. I'm getting ready to change over to the hobbs switch to control the second pump to see if I can't keep my fuel a little cooler.
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