The differential cooler was a little harder to accomplish than I expected, but I was probably a little under prepared too. Here’s a list of some of the items I used.
Mocal Oil Pump ($175, Racer Parts Wholesale)
Econo-Cool 8” x 11” heat exchanger ($70, RPW)
~11’ of -8 SS braided line ($55, Summit)
(4) ½”NPT to AN-8 , 90° (local)
(1) 3/8”NPT to AN-8 , 90° (local)
(1) 3/8”NPT to AN-8, straight (local)
(8) AN-8 hose ends (local, total all fittings about $120)
4ft. of ¾” square, .060” wall 6061 tube, ($10, Tractor supply)
Misc:
45/64 drill bit (McMaster)
½”NPT tap (McMaster)
4 qts Royal Purple 75W140
Tube of Motorcraft silicone RTV (too expensive)
Since the car is used for street and track, I didn’t want an overly obtrusive system that would create problems on the street. So I used the square tube and created a ¼” X 6” slot in one side. I put ¼” carriage bolts through the slot and into the body of the car. Now I could slide the exchanger up and down about 4”. It worked really well and seems like it’s plenty strong and stiff. I mounted the cooler to the tubing using rubber grommets between them for some vibration isolation. The pump is mounted to the body using the supplied rubber grommets. But be warned, it still vibrates the entire car. I just wired it to a 12V switch in the trunk.
Here are some tips that I learned along the way:
1. Absolutely need access to a drill press. Drill a pilot hole first.
2. Tapping takes A LOT more force than you think. I had a hard time anchoring the diff. while tapping. The suction line was tapped while the diff was in the car. The tap I used had a large taper to it, so make sure you go deep enough into the hole. Use plenty of tapping fluid
3. Be wary of NPTF and NPT threads. NPTF stands for ‘fuel’ and does not use any Teflon tape on the threads. The threads are interfering and use the galling action to seal without the tape.
4. The SS braided lines are a lot more difficult to work with than I expected. I also had a mix of hose ends from 2 different companies. I liked the XRP brand verses the fittings labeled under the local retailer. I found some helpful tips on one of the Shelby cobra kit-car forums.
I think the pictures explain the rest of the story. Enjoy
Special thanks to Kiet, the British Guy, Greg and Jerry at NASA and all the SVT forum guys who helped out.
Mocal Oil Pump ($175, Racer Parts Wholesale)
Econo-Cool 8” x 11” heat exchanger ($70, RPW)
~11’ of -8 SS braided line ($55, Summit)
(4) ½”NPT to AN-8 , 90° (local)
(1) 3/8”NPT to AN-8 , 90° (local)
(1) 3/8”NPT to AN-8, straight (local)
(8) AN-8 hose ends (local, total all fittings about $120)
4ft. of ¾” square, .060” wall 6061 tube, ($10, Tractor supply)
Misc:
45/64 drill bit (McMaster)
½”NPT tap (McMaster)
4 qts Royal Purple 75W140
Tube of Motorcraft silicone RTV (too expensive)
Since the car is used for street and track, I didn’t want an overly obtrusive system that would create problems on the street. So I used the square tube and created a ¼” X 6” slot in one side. I put ¼” carriage bolts through the slot and into the body of the car. Now I could slide the exchanger up and down about 4”. It worked really well and seems like it’s plenty strong and stiff. I mounted the cooler to the tubing using rubber grommets between them for some vibration isolation. The pump is mounted to the body using the supplied rubber grommets. But be warned, it still vibrates the entire car. I just wired it to a 12V switch in the trunk.
Here are some tips that I learned along the way:
1. Absolutely need access to a drill press. Drill a pilot hole first.
2. Tapping takes A LOT more force than you think. I had a hard time anchoring the diff. while tapping. The suction line was tapped while the diff was in the car. The tap I used had a large taper to it, so make sure you go deep enough into the hole. Use plenty of tapping fluid
3. Be wary of NPTF and NPT threads. NPTF stands for ‘fuel’ and does not use any Teflon tape on the threads. The threads are interfering and use the galling action to seal without the tape.
4. The SS braided lines are a lot more difficult to work with than I expected. I also had a mix of hose ends from 2 different companies. I liked the XRP brand verses the fittings labeled under the local retailer. I found some helpful tips on one of the Shelby cobra kit-car forums.
I think the pictures explain the rest of the story. Enjoy
Special thanks to Kiet, the British Guy, Greg and Jerry at NASA and all the SVT forum guys who helped out.
