DEI Responder Remote Rattery Replacement

mwolson

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My son has a DEI Clifford alarm in his car, and the battery in his Responder LC 2 Way remote stopped holding a charge. Rather than getting ripped of by a dealer for a new remote or an expensive battery replacement service, I decided to figure out a DIY way to replace the battery.

Here are two photos of the remote:
P2100010_zpszeiq04pe.jpg
P2010003_zpsy44yb9qg.jpg

I learned that it is impossible to get an exact replacement battery for the remote (thanks DEI) so I had to do a lot of research to find an equivalent battery that will work. I learned that the stock battery is a 3.7V LiPo (Lithium Polymer) 130mAH battery. I measured the size of the battery compartment, and then went searching the internet for batteries. I finally found one ($17 for 5 batteries) that will fit inside the remote on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-3-7V-...=b186b751bae84b48b3fcdfe8534a7868&pid=100102&

The stock battery was 130mAH and the new battery is 120mAh, but that will only reduce the time before a recharge just a little bit. Now I have 4 spare batteries. :)

You take the back off of the remote case by removing the tiny Philips screw and then carefully prying the back off of the remote. There are little plastic tabs that clip the back onto the remote. Be careful not to break those plastic tabs as you take the back off. Don't lose the little usb port rubber plug either. Once you have the back off, it exposes the insides:
P2010004_zps5u7ppkrv.jpg

Unplug the battery connector and remove the battery. Here it is next to the replacement battery:
P2100001_zpsaflhuovg.jpg

I cut the connector off of the stock battery, and then staggered the wire lengths so the splices in the cable will not be adjacent to each other. That will reduce the chances of a short between the splices and keeps one point in the cable from getting too lumpy. I also cut two bits of small shrink tubing:
P2100003_zpsgj6lvcqj.jpg

I stripped the wires, put on the shrink tubing and then soldered the wires together:
P2100005_zpsgv4iz6to.jpg

I used a heat gun to shrink the tubing:
P2100007_zpsyeadyqyf.jpg

I plugged the battery in:
P2100009_zpst99zildo.jpg

And the remote woke up:
P2100010_zpszeiq04pe.jpg

I replaced the back and the Philips screw, set the clock and the alarm was back to normal. I did not have to re-pair the remote to the alarm or change any of its other settings.

So if you don't want to pay the DEI tax for a new battery, just do as i did.
 
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shurur

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Nice.
I love little projects like these.
I wonder if they make tiny connectors, maybe like computer two pin fan connectors or single pin connectors; so you wouldn't have to solder again...

Not a lot of room in that housing though...

Plus it would only save two solders..
Maybe determine the connector type instead...it actually does look like the two pin connectors use on desktop fans..they come with wires attached..

I'm worrying about splice count...when a battery lasts years...never mind..
 
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LDC2335

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I've been wanting to put a similar clifford or viper kit in mine. I'd love to know how your remote start is wired. I read that it required a series of relays and so I was deterred from tackling it for now.
 

mwolson

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I'd want to solder a new connector on anyway, since it's hard to get a good crimp on the pin without the correct crimping tool for that style pin.

The hardest part of the project was finding a battery with a form factor that would fit. I actually found one almost identical to the stock battery, but they had a 10,000 unit minimum order quantity on it. Just a few more than I needed. :)

My son insisted on a remote start in his first car, so we put it in, in spite of the fact that it was a manual car without a neutral switch. He got into the habit of always remote starting it. The technician at the smog ref left it in gear in the parking lot after a smog test. My son remote started it and it started to drive on its own through a crowded parking lot. It was like the e-brake wasn't even there. Fortunately, we could see the car moving on it's own. It took a few seconds to remote shut it off. Thank God the caster kept it going straight enough that it didn't hit any parked cars.

His current car does not have the remote start.

I would recommend that you not do remote start in any manual car without a neutral switch. :)

Since the remote comes with the relay module, all you need to be able to do is handle splicing heavy gauge wires.
 

LDC2335

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I would definitely have a neutral switch. I leave mine in neutral anyway unless on a hill.

The only install directions I could find said you needed like three relays to replicate the start up sequence that the car goes through when you turn the key.

Maybe not. Hopefully it's easy.
 

mwolson

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I will be curious as to how you will do a neutral switch on a Cobra. I couldn't figure out an easy way to do it...
 

LDC2335

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I guess I haven't thought that hard about it. I think I have seen some motion sensors that if it feels the car lunge upon start up, it kills the motor. Might be the only option.
 

mwolson

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Well, a little bad news here. It seems the batteries I bought from China are not that good. After a couple of weeks, the charge started lasting less than 2 days, and now the first battery has gone completely flat. When I soldered in the next battery, I noticed that one of the leads had solder on it. So from what I can tell, these batteries are used and have been salvaged from some other piece of electronics. We'll see how long this battery lasts... Caveat emptor. :(
 

mwolson

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The second battery didn't even hold a charge for 8 hours. :(

I guess you need to be really careful what you buy out of China. Grrr...
 

shurur

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The second battery didn't even hold a charge for 8 hours. :(

I guess you need to be really careful what you buy out of China. Grrr...

I got the same with some phone batteries once.

Now my auto lok window controller relay is sticking....sad thing is all I can afford is another cheap relay from China.
 

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