Damming ther hood.

iismet

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I just want to say - it is amazing how much good tech is here. I have spent several days here. I've been a member since 03 or 04. I ran my first open track this year. We have put 6 days on the car and every fault I have experienced is covered here. Thank you to all of you who know how to build them.

I installed an AFCO heat exchanger - it is not wired the way I want it yet but does show promise as a static heat extraction method between runs. I ran my car in the rain last Friday and it really held its own, but the rain is a cooling enhancer so that picture is skewed a bit. I am in the process of boxing my radiator. I am using 1/8" abs plastic to box

Some questions

How do you remove the foam bumper support attached to the crash bars? What is a good method of re-attachment for the purposes of on and off ease?

What kind of materials are you using between the radiator and the OEM plastic shield once the AC condenser has been removed?

I am pulling the steering cooler and replacing with a generic. Where is the optimal location relative to the front of the radiator i.e Drivers, Center, Passenger, Top, Center, Bottom?

Do you fix the steering cooler with a gap between it and the radiator or use the radiator to support?

I have pulled the fog lights and am using those ports for the brake ducts. I was thinking of pulling cold air from the brake duct of the bumper cover and forcing cold air into the boxed area of the radiator. This would allow me to duct some cold air on the power steering cooler after the heat exchanger or perhaps after the steering cooler in front of the radiator, thus my question on where to locate the steering cooler i.e. front to back side to side.

I am going to try to run a 3.5" air dam -have been running with 3", but not all the way to the fender wells. How far out do you bring it with respect to the fender well ? It creates quite a channel (venturi) between the dam and the inside of the fender. The further out you bring it the better?????

I am running JLT cold air. I am thinking of closing that box and running the passenger side duct into it.

Pin 82 to ground - is this connection switched thru the ignition or can I ground it and the IC pump will run?

Carlos - on the dams attached to the leading edge of the heat extraction vents on the hood - how high? What is an optimal height to create the low pressure on the back side without making it excessively high - meaning extra height provides no gain? I have a stock hood - it is all I will ever have :shrug: The dam in front is Carrol Smith thinking all the way. I was thinking of some small aluminum dams

Carlos - some of your work is over the top dedication - yarn testing the bottom and publishing - priceless. :)

The car tracked very well in the rain. We have not overheated it since the 2nd time it was OTed, but it lives in a fairly cool environment

I am preparing to run it again the 1st of October.

AC delete
Air Bag Delete
Box Radiator
Aeroforce gages
Raptor Shift Light

I really appreciate you guy's insight.

x-cliff
 

99COBRA2881

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I just want to say - it is amazing how much good tech is here. I have spent several days here. I've been a member since 03 or 04. I ran my first open track this year. We have put 6 days on the car and every fault I have experienced is covered here. Thank you to all of you who know how to build them.

I installed an AFCO heat exchanger - it is not wired the way I want it yet but does show promise as a static heat extraction method between runs. I ran my car in the rain last Friday and it really held its own, but the rain is a cooling enhancer so that picture is skewed a bit. I am in the process of boxing my radiator. I am using 1/8" abs plastic to box

Some questions

How do you remove the foam bumper support attached to the crash bars?

Drill out the rivets that hold it in place

What is a good method of re-attachment for the purposes of on and off ease?

A few wraps of duct tape around the foam and the bumper tube works well enough

What kind of materials are you using between the radiator and the OEM plastic shield once the AC condenser has been removed?

aluminum

I am pulling the steering cooler and replacing with a generic. Where is the optimal location relative to the front of the radiator i.e Drivers, Center, Passenger, Top, Center, Bottom?

mount the cooler underneath the metal bumper and direct air to it from the unused opening in the bumper cover


I am going to try to run a 3.5" air dam -have been running with 3", but not all the way to the fender wells. How far out do you bring it with respect to the fender well ? It creates quite a channel (venturi) between the dam and the inside of the fender. The further out you bring it the better?????

The air dam is there for the radiator running it out wider than the radiator isn't necessary

I am running JLT cold air. I am thinking of closing that box and running the passenger side duct into it.

the more cool air you can get to the air filter the better





x-cliff

Hope this helps :beer:
 

iismet

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Hope this helps :beer:

It does thanks - I have it all apart and mocking changes. I thought daming to the outside was to try to move air outboard instead of going under the car? I am running the stock bumper cover - no splitter.

Great on the cooler I will check tomorrow.

x-cliff
 

ba#97

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Post pics when you get the work done, I'm interested in how you go about rhe power steering cooler.
 

racebronco2

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1. I am using 1/8" abs plastic to box

2. What kind of materials are you using between the radiator and the OEM plastic shield once the AC condenser has been removed?

3. I am pulling the steering cooler and replacing with a generic. Where is the optimal location relative to the front of the radiator i.e Drivers, Center, Passenger, Top, Center, Bottom?


4. I have pulled the fog lights and am using those ports for the brake ducts. I was thinking of pulling cold air from the brake duct of the bumper cover and forcing cold air into the boxed area of the radiator. This would allow me to duct some cold air on the power steering cooler after the heat exchanger or perhaps after the steering cooler in front of the radiator, thus my question on where to locate the steering cooler i.e. front to back side to side.

5. I am going to try to run a 3.5" air dam -have been running with 3", but not all the way to the fender wells. How far out do you bring it with respect to the fender well ? It creates quite a channel (venturi) between the dam and the inside of the fender. The further out you bring it the better?????

6. I am running JLT cold air. I am thinking of closing that box and running the passenger side duct into it.

7. Pin 82 to ground - is this connection switched thru the ignition or can I ground it and the IC pump will run?

8. Carlos - on the dams attached to the leading edge of the heat extraction vents on the hood - how high? What is an optimal height to create the low pressure on the back side without making it excessively high - meaning extra height provides no gain? I have a stock hood - it is all I will ever have :shrug: The dam in front is Carrol Smith thinking all the way. I was thinking of some small aluminum dams

9. Carlos - some of your work is over the top dedication - yarn testing the bottom and publishing - priceless. :)

The car tracked very well in the rain. We have not overheated it since the 2nd time it was OTed, but it lives in a fairly cool environment

I am preparing to run it again the 1st of October.

AC delete
Air Bag Delete
Box Radiator
Aeroforce gages
Raptor Shift Light

I really appreciate you guy's insight.

x-cliff

Sorry it took so long to respond.
1. i used the flexible abs plastic u get at the stock car parts supplier, much easier to bend and shape but it scratches alot easier.

2. I would imagine the same as 1. I still have my ac and i love it on the way home. A member in Canada removed his ac system and installed a huge h/e, he siad it didn't help with the ait2's. I would think again about removing
it.

3. Not sure why you would want to fix something that is not broken. I have never had a problem with the ps system. Once you start modding things then you start having problems with them.

4. Air takes the path of least resistance. Too many bend for it to work.I would image the air pressure from the radiator will cancel out any air from the foglights.

5. I ran mine from fender to fender, one reason is to try and keeo the air from entering the bottom of the car.

6. If you just leave one of the holes in the foglights open it will do the same.

7. I don't remember it's been years.

8.All you need is something that trips the air, i would think 1/2 would do. The hood i make are raised 1/2 ".

9. Thanks, i hate it when some one tells me a can't do something. My friends in there vettes and a few people on here said there is no way you can keep up to the C6ZO6's, your car will go into limp mode within a few laps in warm weather. Not only did i prove them wrong but my engine and oil temps are cooler then my friends in their vettes.

I would think twice about removing the ac. I would keep the air bags for safety. If you trying to reduce weight look somewhere else. Losing 0-50lbs you really can't tell the difference unless you are timed and run consistant laps anyways. You need alot more seat time before you start modding the car anyways.
 

iismet

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3. Not sure why you would want to fix something that is not broken. I have never had a problem with the ps system. Once you start modding things then you start having problems with them.

It fit's horribly with an AFCO cooler. The AFCo installation was well thought out and documented. IMO their solution to relocate the cooler (which I did) was horrible. I do not want to rotate and stack it. Once I started boxing, I decided to go to a square design. As it turns out, it will fit perfectly in front of the brake duct opening.

4. Air takes the path of least resistance. Too many bend for it to work.I would image the air pressure from the radiator will cancel out any air from the foglights.

I'll use it for the steering cooler as suggested by 99cobra2881.

5. I ran mine from fender to fender, one reason is to try and keep the air from entering the bottom of the car.

This makes complete sense.

6. If you just leave one of the holes in the fog lights open it will do the same.

I am cooling the brakes from the fog light openings - that leaves the brake openings on the inside which has some potential to bypass - I will have to study this again - x

7. I don't remember it's been years.

damn - I hate testing circuits

8.All you need is something that trips the air, i would think 1/2 would do. The hood i make are raised 1/2 ".

x- we may try it in aluminum. Do you build vertical or some slope?

I would think twice about removing the ac.

I thought about it 10 times -

I would keep the air bags for safety.

I thought about it 10 times - maybe put it on the trailer - LOL!

If you trying to reduce weight look somewhere else. Losing 0-50lbs you really can't tell the difference unless you are timed and run consistent laps anyways.

Times do not concern me - we are not timed. It allows the power to live an easier life and none of it is needed on a track. It does concern me driving on the street. I have the luxury of a trailer.

You need alot more seat time before you start modding the car anyways.

Mine is and will stay pretty simple. I am building a Replica Cobra which is rather frightening in comparison (90", 2200lb, 425hp).

My 03 is very predictable and easy to drive - a great car to learn in. I eventually plan on adding some aero (spoiler and splitter) just to get the feel and experience of how and what it can do. As of now my top speed is below 130 and the car is very stable and most enjoyable to drive.

Tracking it has given me a whole new respect for it
 

racebronco2

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7. You just need to look at the wiring diagram to find the correct circuit.

8. I was thinking more about tripping the air. It will trip the air to create a high pressure / low pressure area. The problem lies in that it will not work very well. Think about it, in order for the air to exit the hood vents it will have to make 2 90* turns. The hood vents will be getting most of the air between the hood and the radiator cover. Remove the vents and imagine what the straightest path would be and you will see what i am talking about.
 

iismet

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8. I was thinking more about tripping the air. It will trip the air to create a high pressure / low pressure area. The problem lies in that it will not work very well. Think about it, in order for the air to exit the hood vents it will have to make 2 90* turns. The hood vents will be getting most of the air between the hood and the radiator cover. Remove the vents and imagine what the straightest path would be and you will see what i am talking about.

I do not understand - I want to trip the flow over the hood just prior to the vent to produce lower pressure at the forward edge of the vent. I do not understand the 2 90* turns. Can you elaborate?

DBR9.jpeg
 

racebronco2

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Remove the hood vents. Is there a clear straight path from the radiator to the hood vents? No, it must make two 90* turns in order to do that. That's why i lowered the hood vents two inches to have a clear path.
 

iismet

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ok - now I am with you. I will have to look at this tomorrow.-x

As a side - I have removed the vents and we have not over heated on the two outings since then, but both days were below 85 ambient. The one time I overheated ambient was 90.

A couple of other related

1) Before you modified your hood, did you experience front end lift at speed?

2) If so, what speed?

3) If so, has the hood modification had any affect on this?


x-chr
 

racebronco2

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ok - now I am with you. I will have to look at this tomorrow.-x

As a side - I have removed the vents and we have not over heated on the two outings since then, but both days were below 85 ambient. The one time I overheated ambient was 90.

A couple of other related

1) Before you modified your hood, did you experience front end lift at speed?

2) If so, what speed?

3) If so, has the hood modification had any affect on this?


x-chr

My car never over heated ever, it went into limp mode a few times. In temps over 90* it would go into limp mode if i pushed it hard. A few friend whom open track their car have taken a ride in my car. They have said that they don't push their cars nearly as much as i push my car on track.

I did not get any lift that i could tell up to 145mph. I believe front end lift occurs around 160mph.

My car and a friends car (both with my modded hoods) were as stable over 160mph as they were at 60mph. We both took our hands off the wheel at around 150mph to see how stable the cars were. My car with a m122 at 522hp beat a 550 hp whipple by 12moh at one of the mile events. My friends 500 ported eaton beat the whipple by about 3 mph. I attribute that to the modded hood.
 

iismet

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My car never over heated ever, it went into limp mode a few times. In temps over 90* it would go into limp mode if i pushed it hard. A few friend whom open track their car have taken a ride in my car. They have said that they don't push their cars nearly as much as i push my car on track.

I did not get any lift that i could tell up to 145mph. I believe front end lift occurs around 160mph.

My car and a friends car (both with my modded hoods) were as stable over 160mph as they were at 60mph. We both took our hands off the wheel at around 150mph to see how stable the cars were. My car with a m122 at 522hp beat a 550 hp whipple by 12moh at one of the mile events. My friends 500 ported eaton beat the whipple by about 3 mph. I attribute that to the modded hood.

I consider limp mode over heating - why else do they go into limp mode? What you describe above is what happened to me - root cause - heat.
 

racebronco2

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I consider limp mode over heating - why else do they go into limp mode? What you describe above is what happened to me - root cause - heat.

If the cooling system boils over i would call that over heating. I take it you don't have a real temp gauge? If you did you would know when to back off a little so the car doesn't go into limp mode. Limp mode could be caused by the engine cooling system or the inter-cooler system getting too hot. Which is yours? Limp mode will save your engine, over heating it boils over and if you don't have any water around you could damage your engine if ran that way.
 

iismet

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yea - gauges are on the truck. Will have them before the next time I run. Boxing is coming along nicely - what a tedious task. I must have mounted and dismounted the bumper 20 times or more so far, but I have the side panels and floor done. Have one more front panel to fabricate tomorrow. There is a small gap between the bottom of the steel bumper support and the top of the HE which I am going to close. I am really excited about having this done. Now that the side panels are in it really makes me wonder why Ford did not. With a CAD model it would be so easy.

What kind of top speeds are you guy's running OT?

Do you use 5th or just run 4th to the top?

chr
 

David Hester

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I did not get any lift that i could tell up to 145mph. I believe front end lift occurs around 160mph.
FWIW My A/Sedan Fox body would lift (steering would go light) around 155 (157 according to tach) at VIR.
It would float as I made the bend at start/finish and again about the end of the blend lane just before braking going into 1. No hood vents, as they were not legal in A/Sedan then.
 

racebronco2

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yea - gauges are on the truck. Will have them before the next time I run. Boxing is coming along nicely - what a tedious task. I must have mounted and dismounted the bumper 20 times or more so far, but I have the side panels and floor done. Have one more front panel to fabricate tomorrow. There is a small gap between the bottom of the steel bumper support and the top of the HE which I am going to close. I am really excited about having this done. Now that the side panels are in it really makes me wonder why Ford did not. With a CAD model it would be so easy.

What kind of top speeds are you guy's running OT?

Do you use 5th or just run 4th to the top?

chr

I used to use fifth gear at the faster tracks with speeds around 150mph, i now have 3.27 gears which goes up to 160mph. Haven't been onntrack with these gears yet.
 

iismet

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What RPM do you use for your shift points? When I first started I was kind of over whelmed and tended to hit the rev limiter. Last time out I was much more conscious and used 6K. I was surprised how much stronger the top end is with an x pipe and 2.5" exhaust.

I assume 160 in 4th - I did not do the math. That is some pretty good torque mine would fall flat on its face with that kind of gearing - LOL!

chr
 

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