Critique and some questions on my build. Fuel system, engine, & trans related

[lunadiver]

Hello, I'm hopefully going to be wrapping up my engine here soon but, I have a few questions on a couple things and seeing if I missed anything on the build

Specs on the build:
-Stock iron block .030 over
-Mmr 2500r -6cc notched pistons & total seal ss rings(should be around 10:1)
-Manley billet I beams
-Tvs 2.3 (I have a 2.6 and 3.0 but have some questions)
-lfp throttle body
-Stock crank
-stock water pump
-Mmr hurricane oil pump
-Stock heads unported
-Bullet custom cams
-Pac 1223 springs and retainers (not purchased)
-Stainless steel valves,new keepers & valve seals
-Mmr billet primary & secondary tensioner
-Mmr billet guides
-Mmr billet crank gear
-kooks long tubes 1 7/8 slip fit
-innovators west harmonic balancer (had some questions)
-vmp 3500 maf w/ 100mm tube(not purchased)
-American racing solutions tensioner
-e85
-lethal 1400 return kit
-id 1000's
-spec mach 1 p-trim 26 spline
-killer chiller (not purchased yet)

Sorry if some of these have been answered but these are some questions I couldn't find to much on over the past couple months

1.what do you use to seal the fittings on the fuel system? I know regular teflon won't work.

2.i can only find adjustable primary cam gears to degree the cams the cloyes secondary seem to be discontinued. Anyone that has used bullet cams how close are the cams to the spec card? Considering just dropping them in but would prefer to degree them but i can't find adjustable secondary gears.

3. Best way to seal slip fit headers. Would kopr kote work?

4. I can't decide whether to get the iw balancer with the metco ring adapter or the stock caged lower. I would prefer to keep the cage but I'm worried about belt slip the the 2.6 pulley. But I'm also worried about the crank with the uncaged lower and the tensioner. Not sure which way to go here looking for some advice.

5.With this work to fill the coolant system so I can run it on the dyno to seal the rings? I've heard ss rings have a really short period to seal so I don't want to start it. And any particular coolant that works best?

6. Do I need an adjustable pivot ball with the clutch? I have an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster.

7. Should I go for stock oil clearances with the aftermarket oil pump? I already purchased standard size bearings but I will buy new ones if needed. It's a dd just not sure if the oil pump will put out too much oil pressure.

8. Oil catch can or vent I can't decide on which one to go with. Will the crankcase pressure be too much for the seals or will I be okay with just catch cans? Again it's a dd just worried about reliability. And any brand reccomendations on either of the two?

9. I plan on doing a diy hot tank for the heads with a metal trash can over a burner with 50:50 water and degreaser mix. But I'm seeing mixed responses on aluminium safe cleaners any reccomendations with personal experiences? Plan on leaving them in there for a couple hours atleast.

10. I accidentally broke the connector from the trans to engine harness when pulling the engine. Any idea where to get a new trans harness or a splice in connector?

10. Anything that I missed on the build?

I think that is it. Again sorry for all the questions and I just want to say thanks for the help this community has been more helpful than any other forum I've been apart of by far.

Sorry one more question.
11.The throw out bearing and pilot bearing the comes with the spec clutch how good are they?
I already purchased a mcleod throw out bearing and was planning on using that just not sure on the pilot bearing.

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[lunadiver]

Any help appreciated!

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[Soap]

1.what do you use to seal the fittings on the fuel system? I know regular teflon won't work.

2.i can only find adjustable primary cam gears to degree the cams the cloyes secondary seem to be discontinued. Anyone that has used bullet cams how close are the cams to the spec card? Considering just dropping them in but would prefer to degree them but i can't find adjustable secondary gears.

3. Best way to seal slip fit headers. Would kopr kote work?

4. I can't decide whether to get the iw balancer with the metco ring adapter or the stock caged lower. I would prefer to keep the cage but I'm worried about belt slip the the 2.6 pulley. But I'm also worried about the crank with the uncaged lower and the tensioner. Not sure which way to go here looking for some advice.

5.With this work to fill the coolant system so I can run it on the dyno to seal the rings? I've heard ss rings have a really short period to seal so I don't want to start it. And any particular coolant that works best?

6. Do I need an adjustable pivot ball with the clutch? I have an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster.

7. Should I go for stock oil clearances with the aftermarket oil pump? I already purchased standard size bearings but I will buy new ones if needed. It's a dd just not sure if the oil pump will put out too much oil pressure.

8. Oil catch can or vent I can't decide on which one to go with. Will the crankcase pressure be too much for the seals or will I be okay with just catch cans? Again it's a dd just worried about reliability. And any brand reccomendations on either of the two?

9. I plan on doing a diy hot tank for the heads with a metal trash can over a burner with 50:50 water and degreaser mix. But I'm seeing mixed responses on aluminium safe cleaners any reccomendations with personal experiences? Plan on leaving them in there for a couple hours atleast.

10. I accidentally broke the connector from the trans to engine harness when pulling the engine. Any idea where to get a new trans harness or a splice in connector?

10. Anything that I missed on the build?

I think that is it. Again sorry for all the questions and I just want to say thanks for the help this community has been more helpful than any other forum I've been apart of by far.

Sorry one more question.
11.The throw out bearing and pilot bearing the comes with the spec clutch how good are they?
I already purchased a mcleod throw out bearing and was planning on using that just not sure on the pilot bearing.

Some help...

1. AN fittings do not use any seal. The tapered seat seals itself.
3. Thin coat of Copper RTV will work.
4. I doubt you will have issues without a caged lower with the 2.3. Not sure what pulley combo you plan to use but a typical upper/lower combo will not have belt slip issues if the rest of your components are in place.
7. I'd call the manufacturer and ask them their thoughts based on their experience. I've never heard of too much oil pressure though. Just use a good filter.
8. A catch can and a vent do the same thing, they passively allow the pressure to be removed, pick whichever you like.
9. If you have concerns about what to use I'd just take them do a head shop and have them clean them. Then you don't have to mess with the DIY hot tank, or disposing of the chemicals after etc.
10A. If you really want a new one you are going to have to start looking at junk yards or people parting out cars online.
10B. If I were you I'd try and find another stock block to use. 30 over is pushing the limits. You might get into cooling issues, especially that you keep saying this is your DD.
11. Not sure how good it is, but I threw mine in the garbage and used an OEM Ford pilot bearing when I did my clutch.

--Joe

 

[lunadiver]

Some help...

1. AN fittings do not use any seal. The tapered seat seals itself.
3. Thin coat of Copper RTV will work.
4. I doubt you will have issues without a caged lower with the 2.3. Not sure what pulley combo you plan to use but a typical upper/lower combo will not have belt slip issues if the rest of your components are in place.
7. I'd call the manufacturer and ask them their thoughts based on their experience. I've never heard of too much oil pressure though. Just use a good filter.
8. A catch can and a vent do the same thing, they passively allow the pressure to be removed, pick whichever you like.
9. If you have concerns about what to use I'd just take them do a head shop and have them clean them. Then you don't have to mess with the DIY hot tank, or disposing of the chemicals after etc.
10A. If you really want a new one you are going to have to start looking at junk yards or people parting out cars online.
10B. If I were you I'd try and find another stock block to use. 30 over is pushing the limits. You might get into cooling issues, especially that you keep saying this is your DD.
11. Not sure how good it is, but I threw mine in the garbage and used an OEM Ford pilot bearing when I did my clutch.

--Joe

Thanks for the reply! You cleared up a lot up things for me.



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[03' White Snake]

1. I agree with Joe. No sealant on AN fittings.
2. I used cloyes gears on mine. I was staying away from hex key gears. I wanted to guarantee they would not slip timing.
3. I use never seize on my Bassani headers. Have minimal leaking. Usually seal themselves with carbon and crap after running a while.
5. I filled my coolant system and let it gravity bleed itself for a few days, kept topping it off and had no issues. I checked it a few times after run cycles and it was fine.
8. I deleted my PCV and separator and went with breathers. I run boundary oil pump gears in a Ford pump.
9. I disassembled my heads, cleaned with a brass brush and like 10 cans of brake cleaner. Lapped the valves, new seals, springs, cams and was good to go. They looked damn near brand new.
10a. I broke my clip too, I just zip tie it so it doesn't come undone. Buying a used T56 harness or a complete engine harness is the only option to fix it.

I ran steel rings, did 2 start ups, held it around 1500-2k up to temp. Then took it for a ride and put 5-10 psi at her to seat the rings a few times. I had a pretty good base tune from before. I watched my wide band the entire time. Put her on the dyno and let her eat all 22 psi. Have about 1200 miles on the new motor, Running strong.

 

[lunadiver]

1. I agree with Joe. No sealant on AN fittings.
2. I used cloyes gears on mine. I was staying away from hex key gears. I wanted to guarantee they would not slip timing.
3. I use never seize on my Bassani headers. Have minimal leaking. Usually seal themselves with carbon and crap after running a while.
5. I filled my coolant system and let it gravity bleed itself for a few days, kept topping it off and had no issues. I checked it a few times after run cycles and it was fine.
8. I deleted my PCV and separator and went with breathers. I run boundary oil pump gears in a Ford pump.
9. I disassembled my heads, cleaned with a brass brush and like 10 cans of brake cleaner. Lapped the valves, new seals, springs, cams and was good to go. They looked damn near brand new.
10a. I broke my clip too, I just zip tie it so it doesn't come undone. Buying a used T56 harness or a complete engine harness is the only option to fix it.

I ran steel rings, did 2 start ups, held it around 1500-2k up to temp. Then took it for a ride and put 5-10 psi at her to seat the rings a few times. I had a pretty good base tune from before. I watched my wide band the entire time. Put her on the dyno and let her eat all 22 psi. Have about 1200 miles on the new motor, Running strong.

Thanks for the reply! I wanted to use the cloyes gears but I can't seem to find them anywhere. It says out of stock on all the sites I've visited.

I with definitely give the brass brush and brake clean a go. Is there a good way of cleaning the coolant passages? The previous owner used rtv on everything instead of getting gaskets or o rings so I want to make sure nothing made it's way down in them.

That gives me some peace of mind on the rings. I'm hoping my tuner can nail the base tune enough to rev it and put some load on it without issue.

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[Soap]

Thanks for the reply! I wanted to use the cloyes gears but I can't seem to find them anywhere. It says out of stock on all the sites I've visited.

You might get lucky and find some NOS stuff at a performance shop but most all places have sold that stuff off by now. They do pop up occasionally online for sale, just got to keep an eye on the classifieds.

--Joe

 

[lunadiver]

You might get lucky and find some NOS stuff at a performance shop but most all places have sold that stuff off by now. They do pop up occasionally online for sale, just got to keep an eye on the classifieds.

--Joe

Yeah I've been looking on ebay and the classifieds but haven't had any luck yet. I'll have to call around to some local speed shops and see. I've been trying to find an alternative but the only thing I could come up with is to grind down the keys.

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