Creaking/Popping Rear Suspension w/H&R Race Springs

arbs

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For the guys that fixed the problem, did it come back? I have the same problem and did a whole bunch of things to get rid of it. Swapped springs from side to side, new MM isos top and bottom, lubed here and there tightened everything and more. I have H&R sport springs, new bilstein shocks, the isos and BF diff brace. I eventually got rid of the sound when I did everything I mentioned but a few weeks later after a short burnout the sound came back. Idk it's weird, I thought I was done with the sound but it's still here. For you guys that fixed the problem, have you done a burnout lately? Not a major one, just one that will shake the rear end a little and settle things. Did it come back? If you haven't, and you don't mind trying, would you? It's hard to get to the bottom of the problem. I'm sure it's something the we can all do but it jus hasn't been found yet. It would help if I could get the car on a drive on lift and just look at things under there.
 

xavier296

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My squeak was the two pieces of metal rubbing together also, and this was on a car with 10k miles. It was amazing the silence when I finally fixed it!
 

arbs

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My squeak was the two pieces of metal rubbing together also, and this was on a car with 10k miles. It was amazing the silence when I finally fixed it!

Are you talking about the bad weld in the rear passenger side in the trunk or where the top of the spring sits and touches the body?
 

CCS_56_EX

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http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/suspension-modifications-211/583410-rear-end-popping.html

Also, the top retaining nut for the rear shock should be rotated four (4) times after you feel the resistance of friction between the retaining washer and the bushing. It should not be too tight. I usually hand spin the retaining washer while tightening the nut until I can't easily spin it. That's the "point of friction." However, I believe your issue is the one in the link above.


Tried doing the sheetmetal bend in the trunk this morning, and it fixed it. While I'll take an EASY fix like this any day, what a stupid thing to cause all that noise! This site continues to amaze me - I never would have figured out this on my own.
 

Dawgstang

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rear end clunking noise

I also have this clunking noise on the passenger side after installation of the H&R race springs. To get the drop I wanted, no isolaters were installed. For awhile I figured it was normal because I left out the isolaters, until I stumbled upon this and other theads with the same problem with isolaters installed. I checked the rear strut towers and their does not seem to be any rear shock play. My car has only 20K on it and I had this clunking right after the H&R spring install. It does look like the dead coils on top are possible rubbing against the sheetmetal. Could this be the problem?
 

NJredfire03

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http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/suspension-modifications-211/583410-rear-end-popping.html

Also, the top retaining nut for the rear shock should be rotated four (4) times after you feel the resistance of friction between the retaining washer and the bushing. It should not be too tight. I usually hand spin the retaining washer while tightening the nut until I can't easily spin it. That's the "point of friction." However, I believe your issue is the one in the link above.

This above linked thread should be STICKY!! Someone contact an admin to get this done. I'm sure everyone has seen the VAST amounts of threads pertaining to this mysterious noise once springs get installed, especially the HR Race Springs. Assuming that the stiffer ride and high torque numbers are breaking these welds in the trunk. I can't wait to try this out on my car. And this noise started to happen with no suspension upgrades and at 31k miles. I'm doing a bunch of other things to help eliminate this problem and will do this at the same time. Glad that this was posted.
 

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