Coyote Swap bugs....Seeking help from other swaps

97CasperCobra

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Those few of you who have done the swap, I have a few questions:
- My RPMs are WAY off
- Coolant and Oil Temp guages are not working

Swap was done with the Ford Racing Control Pack.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.
 

97CasperCobra

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Pic of the RPMs...
96aa47bdc78194266242e80c1d08beed.jpg
 

mwolson

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The stock oil pressure sensor is a 6 PSI switch that grounds the signal when >6 PSI is present. Check the sensor signal to chassis ground with the engine off and then running. It should read infinite resistance when off and close to 0 ohms whn the engine is running.

With the key on, and the sensor wire unhooked, the gauge should read below the low mark. If you ground the sensor wire, the gauge should read in the normal range. If not, check the wiring to the cluster and/or the gauge itself.

The temperature sensor should read between about 10 ohms and a few hundred ohms depending on the temperature of the sensor. Check across the sensor pin and chassis ground if you have the older 1 pin sensor or across the pins if you have the newer, 2 pin sensor. The temp sensor signal wire is the Red/White wire.

Set a pot to 10 ohms and put it across the signal wire and chassis ground. Turn the key to on, and the temp gauge should point at the H mark. Increase the resistance with the pot and the needle should move down in temperature. If not, check the wiring to the cluster and/or the gauge.

The tachometer expects one square wave pulse for each spark plug fire. Where are you getting your tach signal from?
 

F8L BYT

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Just finished mine up this past week and drove it this weekend. All gauges work, Only thing I still have to line out is wiring up the AC to the control pack somehow so it will work.

What transmission are you running?

As far as the sensors, Did you keep your old Harness to run everything?
 

97CasperCobra

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Just finished mine up this past week and drove it this weekend. All gauges work, Only thing I still have to line out is wiring up the AC to the control pack somehow so it will work.

What transmission are you running?

As far as the sensors, Did you keep your old Harness to run everything?

Running a T56. I still have the factory harness running everything that the new Coyote control pack isn't running.
 

BeanCrusher

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While my swap is still siting on stands, it is running and my tach and gauges work. For the tach I ran the tan/yellow CTO wire from the FRPP harness blunt leads directly to pin at the back of the instrument cluster. (I forget just which one right now and don't have my books. Mark has a great write up on his site.) I have not confirmed just how accurate the tach is, but it is close enough to be plausible, unlike your picture... Mine is a 96, for the record.

To get the oil pressure gauge to work, you will need to remove the oil pressure switch on the Coyote and either install the switch from the 4.6 and attach it to the OP wire on the old harness (I think it's w/r, can check), or, as I did, get a 0-100psi autometer sender and a MeterMatch unit and make your OP gauge an actual gauge. Again...Mark has an excellent set of instructions for this. On second thought...you may be able to use the Coyote OP switch, I forget now its specs. It is just a switch, not a pressure sender, and (per Ford) the FRPP Control pack does not need the OP signal connected to function. It only uses that signal to send a message on the CAN bus to run (presumably) a 2011+ cluster. I removed the Coyote OP switch and associated wiring from the engine harness on mine.

For the Temp gauge, you will need to install the 1 wire coolant temp sender from the 4.6 into a coolant passage somewhere on the Coyote, as the Coyote does not have a coolant sensor, the control pack uses cylinder head temp for its data and figures things out from there. There is a threaded plug in the block, just aft of the filter and OP switch where you can install the 1 wire coolant temp sensor from the 4.6 and connect that appropriately to the old harness to drive the gauge.

How are you running the A/C, or can you not be bothered by such horsepower robbers?
 
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mwolson

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BeanCrusher

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Minor nit: sometime in late 96 or early 97 Ford changed from a 1 wire temperature gauge sensor to a 2 wire sensor.

Good to know. The sum total of my experience comes from 1 early build 96 model.

I assume that it is still very different than the PCM temp sensor?
 

PSUCOBRA96

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Hi guys, long time since my last post but I am planning on a build starting in October. I'm wither building a C-headed 302 stroker or swapping in a coyote, haven't decided what I want to do yet and price is always part of the equation. Both would have a power adder, the C-head build likely with an ON-3 as the base, the coyote I have no clue yet. I have had this car on hiatus for three years now, sad. I wither move forward come October or she goes up for sale.

Please send me PM's if you don't wanna say in a public forum what you guys are spending.
 

BeanCrusher

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Please send me PM's if you don't wanna say in a public forum what you guys are spending.

My happiness level increased substantially once I stopped counting... (at 12)

In fairness, it can be done cheaper than I am. I opted for a new crate engine instead of a "junkyard" Coyote, swapped in a full Maximum Motorsports front end though it was not strictly necessary, and sent my T45 to Zak at the T45source for a street/strip rebuild, which needed to be done regardless of what engine I put in.

I would guess that if one were careful you could do a basic Coyote swap for < 6k.

In the end, I don't care what the cost is for this project. This was my first Mustang and I plan to keep it until I die. (which - some days- I feel like this project is hastening. Not because it is exceptionally challenging, but because of lack of time.)
 

mwolson

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Good to know. The sum total of my experience comes from 1 early build 96 model.

I assume that it is still very different than the PCM temp sensor?

The 1-wire and two wire sensors are electrically identical with each other, but the PCM ECT sensor is different from the gauge sensors, electrically. The PCM ECT sensor has much higher resistance compared to the gauge sensor.

FYI, the IAT sensor and the PCM ECT sensor are electrically identical to each other. Just a bit of trivia...
 

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