Couple of electric water pump questions...
- Thread starter Dingleweed
- Start date
Mines been working great for 7 years now..
But is it the water pump's fault or is it because of the installation?
Mount the relay in a cool place and do a quality wiring job and I believe the chances of failure are pretty low.
You trust your engine to electric fans, after all.
I have the watter pump already installed I just need to know what size belt I need. Is 2.5" shorter than stock going to work?
How much bigger was the stock belt? In the past when I've done projects that required a different length belt I would talk to the parts store and let them know what I was doing. That way if the belt length was off we would just keep trading until I got the right size. Its a PIA, but it worked..
cobraracer46
Banned
Why would I risk overheating and damaging the motor in my Cobra by using a peace of shit product like an electric water pump?
oke:
Not worth the risk. The EMP stewart modular water pump claims a 3 HP parasitic loss. At what rpm it doesnt say. 3 HP loss versus a pump that "could" fail at a moments notice.
Thats the exact response I expected from you.. I'm really surprised you have any aftermarket pieces on your car based off previous comments you've made on here.:burn:Why would I risk overheating and damaging the motor in my Cobra by using a peace of shit product like an electric water pump?
Your a lucky one. lol
Looking at some of your post I'd guess your car spends more track time and sitting time than Hwy miles?
In 7 years how many miles is on it.
I don't trust them on street cars. If they fail you don't know until it is hot.
Manual pump can leak. You should find that before it fails completely.
Manual pump can fail or belt pop. You should find this in other ways before the motor gets hot.
Bottom line, Manual pump on these motors are proven reliable for years and years.
I don't trust electric enough.
I also hope you have a better experience then I did. I had one, it worked for about 2 months (previous owner installed, and did a decent job except wiring into the main harness) then it burned up. I also would never trust another on a street vehicle. IT still spins freely after burning up, the only way to tell anything was wrong was the guage climb. I tore it apart and it was really bad. Once seeing that I will never trust another one.
Although I could definately tell there was a loss in power after taking it out. the motor climbed the rpm's alot quicker when the Electric pump was in.
Best of luck.
Although I could definately tell there was a loss in power after taking it out. the motor climbed the rpm's alot quicker when the Electric pump was in.
Best of luck.
I'd say it has about 12,000 miles on it. The car definitely doesn't go on any long distance trips anymore(something about slicks and the glide changed that), but if the weather is good it gets driven to town and to work every chance I get. For drag racing the electric pump is the only way to go. Make a run come back to the pits let the pump run for 5-10 minutes after you've turned the car off and you are ready to make another run. I remember seeing on one of the forums awhile back a guy had rigged up a light to come on in the event of a pump failure and overheat situation.
This I know, I run it myself.
As I said before On a "street car" it simply isn't worth the $ for the 3 extra HP you may pick up and take a chance of failure.
exactly what I was going to suggest...it would be VERY easy to wire a failure light...you could have the light kick on if the current draw drops to zero (electric motor failure), or if the electric load goes way up (bearing failure)...
A warning light or buzzer is a good idea, I'm looking into it.
you can remove a threaded plug on the block in between cylinders 7/8 and repalce it with a sending unit that can trip off a warning light or what ever you want that requires 12v auto meter makes these,, you can also choose what temp you want the unit to activate I liked in the block for obvious reasons rather than in the cross over tube, mine has been on for two years no issues
I think we only hear about the failures around here. I'd like to know how many they have sold for mustangs in the last 5 years... Lets say its 3000 units. I guess the 3-4 failures floating around these boards don't look so bad.
I've run mine for 2years now with no issues. And my temp rarely goes above 190 degrees... I have no complaints...
installation error (Id10t error) is sometimes to blame... LOOL
PS: and mine is a part time DAILY DRIVER. I commute 50miles round trip every day... I just dont daily drive it in the winter. But from May to Nov, i drive it all the time...
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that belt size in the other post works with a steeda crank pulley i used it and it worked great. Where did you get your 12 volt key source from?
From the distribution block on the passenger side of the firewall. I'll look tomorrow to confirm the pin# and color..
Thats a great Idea. Can someone do a writeup on this? I'm an 'Electrical Noobie' and wouldn't know even where to begin...:shrug:
I'll see what I can find..
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