Cost to replace clutch?

[cmm3]

I've only had my 04 convertible a few months, and she is the first manual transmission in about 30 years, but after a few hours and a couple hundred miles, I have the feeling she is due for a clutch and/or transmission work. Not from anything I've done - it was like riding a bicycle - but more likely because the clutch has 15 years and 40k miles on it. It was replaced 15 years ago by Ford at about 20k miles, and I'm currently at 66k miles. Shifting feels 'notchy' not smooth like I remember my old 84 GT, and there are audible and tactile bumps from the driveline when entering any gear from neutral. I'm going to take it to the local Ford service center in Katy,TX and to my old Mach1 mechanic for professional diagnosis.

I'm curious what the ballpark range is for a new stock clutch install so i know how expensive a gift i need to give my wife to soften the shock. ;-)

'Colette' is a bone stock 04 convertible.

 

[01yellercobra]

The clutch is probably fine. The T-56 is notchy. Especially compared to the old T-5's. Look up the Anti Venom mod. It'll cut down the notchiness when shifting.

As for the clunk, welcome to the IRS. They're known to clunk. There are some mods you can do to help like replacing the front cradle bolts with correct sized bolts.

Welcome to the club. Now post pics before we have you banned.

 

[cmm3]

The clutch is probably fine. The T-56 is notch. Especially compared to the old T-5's. Look up the Anti Venom mod. It'll cut down the notchiness when shifting.

As for the clunk, welcome to the IRS. They're known to clunk. There are some mods you can do to help like replacing the front cradle bolts with correct sized bolts.

Welcome to the club. Now post pics before we have you banned.

I did when I joined, but their are always more pictures!!!

 

[bird_dog0347]

I agree it's less likely you need a clutch and more likely just getting used to how these things perform normally. An aftermarket shifter might help with the notch feeling when shifting, but clunking is usually just from the IRS in the back and the stock config...

 

[hotcobra03]

I had 365k when I did my clutch ,it looked new on side by side comparison,

Clutch cable. To adjust OEM
Lift up hard on clutch pedal it's automatic,

Something else I found .after having issues with hard pedal

Cable will need lube,, remove drench inside with WD-40,

This made pedal much easier to push

Than after installation of a single hook quadrant I now find I don't need to be on floor board to shift and less notchy.

Clunk may be front of rear differential bushings .
Another is front of rear subframe bolts ,,Ford put a 3/8 bolt in a 9/16 hole ..lots of movement here

 

[cmm3]

I had 365k when I did my clutch ,it looked new on side by side comparison,

Clutch cable. To adjust OEM
Lift up hard on clutch pedal it's automatic,

Something else I found .after having issues with hard pedal

Cable will need lube,, remove drench inside with WD-40,

This made pedal much easier to push

Than after installation of a single hook quadrant I now find I don't need to be on floor board to shift and less notchy.

Clunk may be front of rear differential bushings .
Another is front of rear subframe bolts ,,Ford put a 3/8 bolt in a 9/16 hole ..lots of movement here

Maybe I am reacting to nothing. Definitely need a 2nd opinion from someone more experienced with the T-56 & IRS. The clutch isn't slipping, and the pedal & cable are smooth. I've experienced a bad cable before and know what that feels like. I'm probably more concerned with the IRS bolts. Does the 3/8" bolt need to be replaced or sleeved? While I'm not wanting to add aftermarket mods, I'm not against correcting manufacturering mistakes.

 

[P49Y-CY]

as others have said, it's probably not the clutch itself. and the t-56 is generally notchy.

but in my experience, clutch-related problems with these cars are due to improper disengagement or cable adjustment.

if you have the time, i recommend reading this attached thread. when i still had my stock quadrant, this procedure was the single most helpful thing i did and gave me the best results. i didn't even have to do any modifications as suggested. but in the end, an aftermarket firewall adjustment was the much better solution.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/how-to-adjust-clutch-cable.389553/

best of luck with it, and enjoy your "new-to-you" terminator!

 

[hotcobra03]

Maybe I am reacting to nothing. Definitely need a 2nd opinion from someone more experienced with the T-56 & IRS. The clutch isn't slipping, and the pedal & cable are smooth. I've experienced a bad cable before and know what that feels like. I'm probably more concerned with the IRS bolts. Does the 3/8" bolt need to be replaced or sleeved? While I'm not wanting to add aftermarket mods, I'm not against correcting manufacturering mistakes.

It's only replace bolt,,
When you look at it.

7/8 22mm wrench is needed.

OEM is 15mm 18mm.

I got my bolts at Lowe's

Grade 8 9/16 4 inch's long.

Full tilt boogie has them also
Along with poly mount for front of diff .

 

[01yellercobra]

Would you happen to know what shifter you have? If it's aftermarket some are known to be more notchy than others. Two of my friends had/have the Triax and I never found that one to be as smooth as my MGW.

I have the MGW comfort handle and the Anti Venom mod and it shifts pretty smooth IMO.

 

[hotcobra03]

Clutch price,,

I did Ford clutch which may not be available any longer,,
Paid 700 but did the work myself. It is a drive way repair to me

Tob is a common part to wear on these

Been through about 6 of them ,

You say Ford did a replacement,see how deep you can see on what they did
The bearing retainer on these are known to crack

I had gotten a sleeve from tremec Back in 05. It's a 2 piece,,has a ring where it breaks ..not on OEM.

 

[cmm3]

The shifter is stock.

As for the clutch work, it was one of the few service records the previous owner could not find. He said it was done around 20k miles, and it was done at a Ford dealer, but that's all I know.

 

[efnfast]

agreed with the above - everything you're describing is normal for an 03/04

my original clutch is going on 275k. When I last had the drivetrain apart (they like to each TOBs like there's no tomorrow) it looked like it could go another 300k easy.... 40k is nothing on an oem cobra clutch