Dam thanks for telling me, I’m wondering what is the other option for this? Is it the cobra engineer lower kit? Sorry just want to do it best way posible.
Coolant cross over delete and fuel filter?
- Thread starter mark23svt
- Start date
Same, I did that too and never had any issues. 1/16” hole is all I did.
Trying to understand this mod and the oil cooler delete. Is it just for aesthetic purposes or is it a good idea? Is there a kit everyone recommends? I ordered the coolant crossover delete from cobra engineering but was just going to keep the thermostat in stock location.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
From my understanding it’s mainly for looks/clearance of the crossover. I wanted to kill two birds in my case since that long hose of mine has a slight cut might as well get crossover since it gets rid of it anyways. On the YouTube video I believe he stated that it takes a bit longer to warm up if you relocate thermostat.
mine doesn't take any crazy amount of time to warm up, I doubt anyone who drove it could tell any difference.
people do the crossover delete to make room for certain setups the stock one won't clear, some think it looks cleaner and it's exponentially easier to burp. Again with my Mach and the procharger that bypass line was directly in the way when swapping belts, especially trying to get the procharger idler and shims back in place.
I had an oil cooler delete in my last cobra, I only did it because my oil cooler gave out so then bought another one rebuilt it and it leaked again so I said screw it and got a delete kit. Never had any issues just not a priority but if my oil cooler in this car gives out might go that route again.
I did the oil cooler delete, Cobra Engineering stuff is great! The oil “cooler” is not actually a cooler but an oil heater in cold weather.
It's usually done for clearance issues. I did mine for a combination of clearance, temperature, and better deaeration (burping) performance.
First off, you could probably just get away with reducing the bypass size and going to a smaller flexible hose rather than a large diameter molded one. I think Ford primarily ran that large one to work with the lower thermostat. I stepped down to a 3/4" flexible line on mine with no adverse affects. As long as you don't omit the bypass entirely you should be fine.
Second, an upper and lower thermostat perform a little differently. The lower actually allows for a better, more consistent coolant temperature. With the upper thermostat, when it opens, you get a big slug of cold water from the radiator. That causes it to oscillate a bit before it stabilizes. The lower thermostat better meters the cold water from the radiator since it's directly in contact with it. The downsides of the lower thermostat are that it doesn't fill well (as we all know), and that it doesn't sense and react to the engine outlet coolant temperature as well. What may be 220F coming out the top of the engine might be more like 210 or 205F at the thermostat. It takes some adjustment to get the actual performance you want, whereas with an upper thermostat 200F is 200F.
Of course, there's also the matter of the surge tank and vent lines, and surge tank vs. recovery bottle depending on how you configure it. A lot of crossover deletes also delete the surge tank, which I would advise against. But that's another topic.
Personally I'm running a generic inline SBC thermostat housing in mine, a 3/4" bypass, and a 2qt expansion tank. It fills, deaerates, and holds temperature like a charm. (But I would expect it to being designed by a cooling system engineer.)
Users who are viewing this thread
