Compression Ratio affects on supercharging

F8L SN8K

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I am starting a new thread on this subject out of respect for svtseeker, Bruce and anyone reading the thread to gain information of the 2011 GT500 having an alluminum block.

Here is some of the background on what as been discussesed. Starting with post #119 on page 5
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/shelby-gt500-150/610407-2011-gt500-aluminum-block-5.html

High Compression And Low Compression Dyno Results - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords

It began with NathanTSI comment of "I am pretty sure it uses 11:1 compression, so don't hold your breath on acting well with boost."

To my statement as to just because its 11:1 doesn't mean it would make a bad supercharged engine. On the contray in the right circumstances an 11:1 motor will outperform a low compression motor. NOW hold on--Given that both engines are operating under EVERYTHING equal. This means that EVERYTHING except C/R is the same for those that are SLOW. Meaning same timing, boost,Fuel(this is provided that it can support both engines with a resistance compression combustion)

Somehow this transformed into a high boost/low compression vrs low boost/high compression match-up. In which it was not argued as to which was more effeicent.(although a slight disagreement is beginning to rise as to why a adding boost in situations is more effective.)

There are many factors to consider when choosing a C/R for your engine(SC or NA) Fuel-how much pressure can it handle before detenation?(87-116) RPM-A higher operating RPM decreases dwell time at TDC in which lowering the chances of the fuel detonating. Type of power adder-a positive displacement/turbo will require a lower C/R due to its low RPM airflow(again lower RPM more dwell time). A centrifugal blower will benifet from a higher C/R to help increase torque and still be safe as this type of Supercharger requires RPM to make substantial enough flow. (2#@2000rom vrs 12-14#@2000RPM). Cylinder head design& combustion chamber design, and spark plug location. Even the material the head is made of needs to be taken into consideration. And intended use should be your first line. A race car that only makes a blast down the 1/4 on race gas only will be set up different then a Daily Driver. Or even a street/strip car.


:read:
So back to where it is sorta hanging now----
Slow I understand that your drawing is a simple explination. Your numbers are ficticous but I do understand the point you are trying to illistrate. However you are missing the cross over point. You are limited as to how much air and fuel the compressor and fuel injector can flow. At which point to gain HP the only way is to add compression(given the fuel can resist compression combustion) If you take the same amount of A/F and putting it in a smaller space it increases the work output.

My fire cracker in an open hand vrs a closed one was simply to illistrate the importance of the size of the combustion chamber in increasing the effeincy of work being done.

There is fine balancing act as to what is the best combination for you. For instance in Racing governing bodies will limit size and type of power adder, Fuel, piston dish/dome/flat top,Pulley configuration, and minimum cumbustion chamber sizes. Like stated before some of the top modular cars are running compression ratios in the ~11.xx range on twin turbo race car.

Let us not forget also back to one of my points that a high C/R isn't a garauntee, A 4.6 3v with the FRPP blower is rated at 550hp on 10-11# 10"1C/R the 5.4 4v is 540hp at 8.5-9. Part of this is due to a more effeicent blower so lets take that out of the equation. The stock 3v 10:1 but with forged internal made a few more HP then a 4v with 8.5.Both had the same supercharger(2.8H) and the 4v has aruguably better flowing heads. Both on the same fuel. :poke: Admitidly that was just to stir the pot.

Fuel is the biggest limiting factor when it is not the limiting factor other items become the concern-for instance how can you make the most power in a S-trim car running C-10? Everything has its place and equipement and fuel can only go so far.
 

298 snake

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if u have a lower compression blown motor it widens the window for tuning so if the car has 11 to 1 the car is goin to be harder to tune for street strip performance mods same goes for nitrous cars the higher the compression the harder to tune even though the abilty for the bigger shot is accomplished eaiser if u have some where around 12 to 1 for nitrous it really widens the range for tuning n makes it eaiser to swap jets for tuning purpose 15 to 1 the jet swapping is alot tougher tune
 

NITROS COBRA

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May years ago i had a buddy that worked for b&m (when they made roots blowers). He told me that my 350 chevy at 13.5 to 1 compression could not run a roots blower on it. I bought a 144 b&m roots style blower and installed it. I jetted the carb for the change and left the 36 degrees total timing. Car ran like a rapped ape. It all depends on the exact combo you are looking for and how you want the engine to do it's job. In this day and age anything can be done.
 

F8L SN8K

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if u have a lower compression blown motor it widens the window for tuning so if the car has 11 to 1 the car is goin to be harder to tune for street strip performance mods same goes for nitrous cars the higher the compression the harder to tune even though the abilty for the bigger shot is accomplished eaiser if u have some where around 12 to 1 for nitrous it really widens the range for tuning n makes it eaiser to swap jets for tuning purpose 15 to 1 the jet swapping is alot tougher tune

This is correct. Running a higher C/R in any engine makes tuning an even more critical proccess. For you have less room or safety margin for detonation to happen. This goes back to intended purpose and overall goal of the combination(and the combination itself)
 
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RFH

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Increasing CR increases the TDC temperature. This gives the fuel more time and temperature history which will make it very prone to knock/autoignite.

So by lowering the CR you lower the TDC temperature and peak cylinder pressure a little and make it back up with more boost. This way gives more knock resistance with equal power and is the better way to go with street cars as they normally run crappier fuel.
 

Evil Bender

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I have always felt my car would run so much better if it had 1 more piont of compression.90% of the time your driving with no boost,so you have a 3700lbs car bing pulled around by a low compresion small block.
 

Brutal Metal

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Compression in the 8.5-9.5 seem to be the Best for the Heavily Boosted Modular Motors but there's also lots of 99-01 Cobra guys with bolt on ProCharger and Vortech Kits running the stock higher compression, it's in the Tune! I went a point lower than stock with the intention of adding a T-Trim!
 
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Ls1z28-00

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No doubt higher compression yields more HP at any RPM and boost level. however the limiting factor is pump gas for street cars. the higher the compression, the more prone to detonation. lower compression higher boost can equal high compression lower boost, only the car with lower compression is going to be less prone to detonation. its a no brainer for a boosted street car.
 

tt54l32v

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the real question in this matter should be:
engine A 8.5:1 on the highest octane gas and X amount of boost to the point it detonates
engine B 11:1 on the highest octane gas and X amount of boost to the point it detonates
Which of those makes more power

if all things are to be equal which obviously can not be simply because. an engine loses more power turning the blower harder to make more boost: so how much more power is lost turning the blower at 20 pounds compared to 10 pounds
next how much less dense is the that charge at twenty pounds
regardless of compression ratio a motor will detonate when the charge is hot enough and under enough pressure

a point for the low compression guys is that the same engine will have squeezed more air in at 20 pounds than at ten, but how much, boost is measuring restriction not airflow

to say that a lower compression motor has more cly volume than an higher compression one is saying that it is a larger engine, but thats not the case until this volume of air is compressed.
the higher compression forced a little less air into a smaller place, the low comp forced a little more air into a larger place effectively equaling itself out.

I have not seen dynamic compression mentioned yet, which if all things were equal than the dynamic compression would have to be the same. Thus engine with less friction will make more power. The higher the boost the more friction the higher the compression the more friction.
Wallace Racing: Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator play with this a while changing nothing but the compression and boost and you will soon find that it is tit for tat

But all this is not rocket surgery. The piston engine has had its induction forced every way possible and we all know what the best combo is for the desired type of FI and fuel that we are going to run
 

Mikeyb619

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Very interesting comments, definitly learned a few things. One things for sure atleast in my book, I never want to drive a N/A car again. I have the cobra now as my DD but soon I want to be able to garage and baby her and get a turbo'd 4banger with awd for my DD. I figure it'll be a fun car to tune a little a bit and play with and it'll get me to the mountains in winter for snowboarding. Currently everyone of my friends (including myself) sold our old cars and now have RWD sports cars, so we're f00ked if we wanna go there now haha.

Thanks for the C/R info
 

HISSMAN

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My new motor is set to 9.0:1. By no means is this high compression, but I think that overall response and driveability should be improved without the sacrifice of pump gas tuning.

-Jeff
 

RFH

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the real question in this matter should be:
engine A 8.5:1 on the highest octane gas and X amount of boost to the point it detonates
engine B 11:1 on the highest octane gas and X amount of boost to the point it detonates
Which of those makes more power

if all things are to be equal which obviously can not be simply because. an engine loses more power turning the blower harder to make more boost: so how much more power is lost turning the blower at 20 pounds compared to 10 pounds
next how much less dense is the that charge at twenty pounds
regardless of compression ratio a motor will detonate when the charge is hot enough and under enough pressure

a point for the low compression guys is that the same engine will have squeezed more air in at 20 pounds than at ten, but how much, boost is measuring restriction not airflow

to say that a lower compression motor has more cly volume than an higher compression one is saying that it is a larger engine, but thats not the case until this volume of air is compressed.
the higher compression forced a little less air into a smaller place, the low comp forced a little more air into a larger place effectively equaling itself out.

I have not seen dynamic compression mentioned yet, which if all things were equal than the dynamic compression would have to be the same. Thus engine with less friction will make more power. The higher the boost the more friction the higher the compression the more friction.
Wallace Racing: Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator play with this a while changing nothing but the compression and boost and you will soon find that it is tit for tat

But all this is not rocket surgery. The piston engine has had its induction forced every way possible and we all know what the best combo is for the desired type of FI and fuel that we are going to run


Id say engine A would make more power.

This due to the fact that both engines will have the same peak cyinder pressure at the knock limit (for a given fuel octane amd IVC timing) but engine A will be at a higher boost level (or more specifically Pressure ratio, which is a measure of the ratio of manifold pressure to ambient pressure. which is directly correlated to airflow ). Since an SI engine runs under rich conditions and is air limited, A will be able to combust more fuel and make more power even with the higher blower power requirements.

The air density depends on wether there is an intercooler and the isentropic efficiency of the blower. 10 psia on a big blower could be a poor operating point compared to 20 psia, which could be in the sweet spot. For my guess Im assuming they are the same.
 

Helomech74

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I'm running flat tops in my engine with a total CR of 10.4:1. I'm running 18psi of boost on a Procharger D1SC with no issues at all. I spent about 10 hours tuning it on a back road out here by my house, and put it on the dyno to confirm my tune and see my numbers. It runs perfect with no issues at all, even in 95+ degree summers and lots of humidity. I wouldn't do it any other way. Granted PD blower cars are a bit different, but with a Centri blower I would always run stock/higher compression.
 

Glenn Ford

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Running 10:1 CR

I can tell you from personal experinece SC Marauders with stock internal engines run very well with the stock 10:1 cr. BUT, as has been said the tuning is critical. Too many people go to average tuners and get an average tune. You must go to a known expert tuner when you are running 10:1 with boost. My MM runs a 1.59 60' time - the cr really helps to launch this 4,450# heavy car off the line. You have more torque down low which may not be that much of a concern to you guys in the lighter cars. Personally I would only use 10:1 cr with boost - it gives you an easy 40-50 more HP. But, many people have different opinions - for my car it works very well.

Glenn Ford :burnout:
 

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