Cobra wont start!!!!!!
- Thread starter 50hoes
- Start date
Is it turning over and not catching or is it not turning over at all?
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Does it only click once when you turn the ignition to crank over the engine?
Things I would check
1. Make sure the jumper cables have a good connection.
2. Check the cables for corrosion at the battery.
3. Make sure there are no loose connections at the starter and at the battery.
6. Check for voltage at the starter if you have good voltage at the battery. Should be the same voltage at the battery as the starter.
This is where I would start. Give us more detail and we could be of more help.
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Things I would check
1. Make sure the jumper cables have a good connection.
2. Check the cables for corrosion at the battery.
3. Make sure there are no loose connections at the starter and at the battery.
6. Check for voltage at the starter if you have good voltage at the battery. Should be the same voltage at the battery as the starter.
This is where I would start. Give us more detail and we could be of more help.
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Also i forgot to mention this started happening after wire tuck of fuse box and battery relocated to the trunk, can anybody help me i think i have the grounds not done right because ill bolt the ground to the frame and whenever i connect power to power wires nothing happends but when i connect my jumper to the power and then add the negative to the ground wires everything lights up and everything turns on inside
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Sounds like you've got some wires crossed / not installed correctly.
Who did the battery relocation? Did they run the ground to the correct location? What about power?
Who did the battery relocation? Did they run the ground to the correct location? What about power?
I had a shop here in houston do the relocation i did the wire tuck though but they basically ran a 1/0 guage power wire all the way to the back and connected it to the battery and the other end to the fuse box and a wire that comes out the wiring harness which I believe goes to the starter
Check your ground/s. May even add another or 2.
Seen a bunch of builds with little to no grounds with same problems.
Seen a bunch of builds with little to no grounds with same problems.
Ok i will try that if so do i do the grounds any where on the frame does it matter if they are close? Because ill have to extend the wires if i have to separate them
I would first recheck everything you did. Cause you obviously got it back home after the shop did the battery relocation.
I try and keep ground wires 36" or less.I would run to frame and body.
If you don't have a ground from engine block to fuse box I would add 1 there to.
I try and keep ground wires 36" or less.I would run to frame and body.
If you don't have a ground from engine block to fuse box I would add 1 there to.
How would i add a ground to the fuse box?
How would i add a ground to the fuse box?
Sorry I hate miss information. I meant engine block to DS frame rail. Maybe add another from engine to other side frame rail.
Ill post some pics take a look and lmk if anything seems wrong
Here maybe this will help, this guy is smarter then me..
"Chasing down electrical gremlins in a motor vehicle can be an exercise in frustration—the kind of frustration that makes young men old and old men talk to themselves.
But many times, an electrical problem can be traced to a single source: a bad ground connection. A bad ground can cause noise in an audio system, make electric fuel pumps run hot or produce low pressure, and make electronic engine controls do weird things.
Many think that as long as the accessory’s ground wire is touching some part of the vehicle, it is grounded. That is not the case. You must make sure the ground wire is attached at a point that is free of paint, rust, or plating. Paint on body panels and the engine acts as an insulator, resulting in a bad ground connection.
If you are grounding an accessory to the engine, it’s good practice to run a ground wire directly to the alternator case and make sure there is no paint between the starter and the engine block mounting surface.
If your accessory still doesn’t work properly after redoing the grounds, you will need a voltmeter or multimeter to trace the wiring. Set the voltmeter to read ohms (resistance) and probe the battery’s negative stud and ground connection on the accessory (the ground terminal on an amp, for example). If you have a reading less than five ohms, the ground is OK.
If the resistance is OK but the accessory still isn’t working right, set the voltmeter to DC current (voltage). Turn the accessory on and retrace the grounding path as you did before. The voltage should be no greater than .05 volts under load. If you find a point where voltage is present, then you need to add a bonding strap or find a new grounding point so no voltage is present at any of the grounding points.
If the reading is higher, you need to probe the grounding path between the accessory and the battery. Starting at the battery, run the voltmeter probe from the battery to the first grounding point, usually a fender on muscle cars and trucks. Continue to where the fender attaches to the main body, and from there to the accessory. If you find a point of high resistance (over five ohms), you will need to attach a bonding strap or wire between the panels or parts where resistance is highest.
One of the best things you can do to help ensure a properly grounded vehicle is to replace or add an engine-to-chassis ground strap; Taylor makes a nice four-gauge, braided stainless steel strap ideal for most vehicles.
If you are adding a number of accessories or ones that draw a large amount of current, you should also replace the battery-to-chassis ground with a larger gauge wire. That’s because the factory ground wire is usually a less-than-adequate 10 or 12 gauge. A ground wire must be as large as the positive, or supply, wire to the battery.
Hopefully you will never have to experience the joy of tracing a bad ground. But if you find yourself in such a situation, these tips will help make the job go smoother—and get your ride back on ground level."
"Chasing down electrical gremlins in a motor vehicle can be an exercise in frustration—the kind of frustration that makes young men old and old men talk to themselves.
But many times, an electrical problem can be traced to a single source: a bad ground connection. A bad ground can cause noise in an audio system, make electric fuel pumps run hot or produce low pressure, and make electronic engine controls do weird things.
Many think that as long as the accessory’s ground wire is touching some part of the vehicle, it is grounded. That is not the case. You must make sure the ground wire is attached at a point that is free of paint, rust, or plating. Paint on body panels and the engine acts as an insulator, resulting in a bad ground connection.
If you are grounding an accessory to the engine, it’s good practice to run a ground wire directly to the alternator case and make sure there is no paint between the starter and the engine block mounting surface.
If your accessory still doesn’t work properly after redoing the grounds, you will need a voltmeter or multimeter to trace the wiring. Set the voltmeter to read ohms (resistance) and probe the battery’s negative stud and ground connection on the accessory (the ground terminal on an amp, for example). If you have a reading less than five ohms, the ground is OK.
If the resistance is OK but the accessory still isn’t working right, set the voltmeter to DC current (voltage). Turn the accessory on and retrace the grounding path as you did before. The voltage should be no greater than .05 volts under load. If you find a point where voltage is present, then you need to add a bonding strap or find a new grounding point so no voltage is present at any of the grounding points.
If the reading is higher, you need to probe the grounding path between the accessory and the battery. Starting at the battery, run the voltmeter probe from the battery to the first grounding point, usually a fender on muscle cars and trucks. Continue to where the fender attaches to the main body, and from there to the accessory. If you find a point of high resistance (over five ohms), you will need to attach a bonding strap or wire between the panels or parts where resistance is highest.
One of the best things you can do to help ensure a properly grounded vehicle is to replace or add an engine-to-chassis ground strap; Taylor makes a nice four-gauge, braided stainless steel strap ideal for most vehicles.
If you are adding a number of accessories or ones that draw a large amount of current, you should also replace the battery-to-chassis ground with a larger gauge wire. That’s because the factory ground wire is usually a less-than-adequate 10 or 12 gauge. A ground wire must be as large as the positive, or supply, wire to the battery.
Hopefully you will never have to experience the joy of tracing a bad ground. But if you find yourself in such a situation, these tips will help make the job go smoother—and get your ride back on ground level."
Here some more reading for you. Again this guy is smarter then me..
1. DO NOT do (like some) and run a large gauge cable directly from the battery, through the floor and to the starter. Hack jobs are done like that and it is a recipe for a fire. Buy a solenoid kit (Summit # SUM-G1750 or similar) and mount it in the trunk and use it as a switch to let current flow to the starter when you start the car. The solenoid will disengage and cut current off as soon as you release the ignition key after the engine starts. With this setup, the positive battery cable is only HOT when the key is turned to "START". To control this solenoid, you have to buy a small 30 amp relay ($5 at most auto parts store). This relay is energized by the wire that used to go to the starter solenoid. Make sure you use grommets where any cables go through sheet metal. Very important. I cannot stress that enough. 2. Do Not "Jump" the starter solenoid from the battery cable. This picture shows this common setup (similar to the one shown by Buffhomer who posts on the Corral.net). With 1993 and later Mustangs that is not a good idea since they use permanent magnets in the starter motor. The starter motor pinion could stick to the flywheel after your release the ignition key. Not good. So follow the proper setup. 3. If you go racing, some tracks or sanctioning bodies may require a Master cut-off switch because you moved the battery. That makes the diagram a little more complicated. See this diagram for the setup. You have to use a "four terminal" master cut-off switch (Taylor #1033 or Moroso 74102) and an alternator cut-off switch (Painless #50105) to cut-off the juice from the alternator AT THE SAME TIME as you cut the battery. If you do not do this, the voltage will spike (18+V) and damage the ECU or ignition. This happens because the battery acts like a stabilizer in the electrical system. Without it, the alternator will try to compensate and Boom. Bye bye ignition and ECU. Very expensive mistake. The Painless #50105 must be switched via a relay so that you do not drain the battery when the car is not running. Find a circuit that is HOT in START and RUN and tap from it to energize the relay. By the way, the Moroso switch is a little on the overkill side with a 300A continuous rating. The terminals are also designed for 1/2" lugs. That is larger than standard (3/8"). 4. For #3 above, this is not well documented on the internet. I suggest you follow my recommendations. 5. Breakers: Some people try to get away from using a trunk mounted solenoid by using a large amp breaker on the + cable. These have become very popular over the years because of the big sound systems. I have never tried one. But keep this in mind: the starter motor needs a LOT of current when it is very cold outside. So the current draw could exceed the capabilities of a 150A~200A breaker. You could end up with a breaker that trips all the time. Not fun. I recommend you use a solenoid. MAD Electrical is another source of kits for remote battery installation. 6. These diagrams are for reference. The key to avoid shocks, shorts and fires is proper wiring and good connections. Large gauge cables should be soldered to their terminals (crimping is not enough). Use flux to clean the copper and use good heat shrink tubing. The good heat shrink tubing will produce a "goop" that seals the terminal when it shrinks. The goop oozes out and solidifies. Very good stuff and it is sold by Napa auto parts stores. The stuff at Lowes or Home Depot is designed for home electrical and is not designed to handle road salt environment. 7. Proper grounding is supremely important. If not done properly you will get strange behavior from electronic components in the car such as radio, ignition, etc… DO NOT simply scratch the paint off and drill a hole to bolt the negative to the chassis. That is not a good connection. Trust me. The proper way is to WELD a 3/8" nut to the chassis and bolt the negative cable to that. One in the engine compartment and one in the trunk area. Once the cable is bolted, cover the weld, cable terminal and bolt with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Very important to avoid corrosion. If anything replace the stupid flat RED ground strap that Ford uses to ground the motor. What a piece of junk! It is bolted to the frame using a self tapping screw. Also junk. You should use a good 4Gauge cable and bolt it to a welded nut or to the sway bar bracket. This strap left me stranded in the middle of Ohio one Saturday, 4 years ago. The terminal on the red strap tends to crack if overtorqued. Junk! 8. I am very anal about fuses. I fuse everything that goes through sheet metal (except the main battery cables, that task is handled by the solenoid). Fuses are cheap, don’t skimp on them. 9. Most sanctioning bodies require that the battery be placed in a box. Prepare accordingly and make sure you use the same 3/8" threaded ROD to bolt the box AND the battery through the floor (that is required by NHRA anyway). Use a large thick washer under the floor to prevent the battery from pulling through the floor in an accident. Rods with a J hook at the end are not usually accepted at the track. By the way, I do crash testing for the Big Three and I'm telling you that a 30lbs battery can do some serious damage if it comes loose in a crash. 10. 1Gauge battery cable is fine to handle most jobs. 2 Gauge might be a bit small. 1/0Gauge is overkill, but if you like to over design by all means please do so. Just keep in mind that larger cables require larger connectors and terminals and they are not always easy to find. 11. Welding cable is not designed to live in the harsh environment under a car (at least not the stuff I have seen around here). Buy proper cable from Taylor or other. Those cables have the correct sheating to withstand the heat and cold. For the positive cable at the starter motor, make a small bracket to hold the cable to one of the transmission bolts (using tie straps). This will strain relief the cable and not put the connector on the starter under constant load when the motor bounces or torques. 12. With enough patience and a fish tape, you can use existing holes in the trunk to route the cables and wires to the starter. It's a good idea to cover the wire bundle with convolute or protective plastic tubing. Again, use grommets to prevent a short. Parts needed: Battery box (sealed) Wiring kit for battery relocation Summit SUM-G1750 or MAD Electrical or similar Remote Solenoid kit General purpose relay For racing you ALSO need: Painless #50105 Alternator cut-off switch (solenoid) Taylor 1033 or Moroso 74102 master cut-off switch As you can see, this is a lot of work.
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/28052-Relocating-a-battery-to-the-trunk
1. DO NOT do (like some) and run a large gauge cable directly from the battery, through the floor and to the starter. Hack jobs are done like that and it is a recipe for a fire. Buy a solenoid kit (Summit # SUM-G1750 or similar) and mount it in the trunk and use it as a switch to let current flow to the starter when you start the car. The solenoid will disengage and cut current off as soon as you release the ignition key after the engine starts. With this setup, the positive battery cable is only HOT when the key is turned to "START". To control this solenoid, you have to buy a small 30 amp relay ($5 at most auto parts store). This relay is energized by the wire that used to go to the starter solenoid. Make sure you use grommets where any cables go through sheet metal. Very important. I cannot stress that enough. 2. Do Not "Jump" the starter solenoid from the battery cable. This picture shows this common setup (similar to the one shown by Buffhomer who posts on the Corral.net). With 1993 and later Mustangs that is not a good idea since they use permanent magnets in the starter motor. The starter motor pinion could stick to the flywheel after your release the ignition key. Not good. So follow the proper setup. 3. If you go racing, some tracks or sanctioning bodies may require a Master cut-off switch because you moved the battery. That makes the diagram a little more complicated. See this diagram for the setup. You have to use a "four terminal" master cut-off switch (Taylor #1033 or Moroso 74102) and an alternator cut-off switch (Painless #50105) to cut-off the juice from the alternator AT THE SAME TIME as you cut the battery. If you do not do this, the voltage will spike (18+V) and damage the ECU or ignition. This happens because the battery acts like a stabilizer in the electrical system. Without it, the alternator will try to compensate and Boom. Bye bye ignition and ECU. Very expensive mistake. The Painless #50105 must be switched via a relay so that you do not drain the battery when the car is not running. Find a circuit that is HOT in START and RUN and tap from it to energize the relay. By the way, the Moroso switch is a little on the overkill side with a 300A continuous rating. The terminals are also designed for 1/2" lugs. That is larger than standard (3/8"). 4. For #3 above, this is not well documented on the internet. I suggest you follow my recommendations. 5. Breakers: Some people try to get away from using a trunk mounted solenoid by using a large amp breaker on the + cable. These have become very popular over the years because of the big sound systems. I have never tried one. But keep this in mind: the starter motor needs a LOT of current when it is very cold outside. So the current draw could exceed the capabilities of a 150A~200A breaker. You could end up with a breaker that trips all the time. Not fun. I recommend you use a solenoid. MAD Electrical is another source of kits for remote battery installation. 6. These diagrams are for reference. The key to avoid shocks, shorts and fires is proper wiring and good connections. Large gauge cables should be soldered to their terminals (crimping is not enough). Use flux to clean the copper and use good heat shrink tubing. The good heat shrink tubing will produce a "goop" that seals the terminal when it shrinks. The goop oozes out and solidifies. Very good stuff and it is sold by Napa auto parts stores. The stuff at Lowes or Home Depot is designed for home electrical and is not designed to handle road salt environment. 7. Proper grounding is supremely important. If not done properly you will get strange behavior from electronic components in the car such as radio, ignition, etc… DO NOT simply scratch the paint off and drill a hole to bolt the negative to the chassis. That is not a good connection. Trust me. The proper way is to WELD a 3/8" nut to the chassis and bolt the negative cable to that. One in the engine compartment and one in the trunk area. Once the cable is bolted, cover the weld, cable terminal and bolt with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Very important to avoid corrosion. If anything replace the stupid flat RED ground strap that Ford uses to ground the motor. What a piece of junk! It is bolted to the frame using a self tapping screw. Also junk. You should use a good 4Gauge cable and bolt it to a welded nut or to the sway bar bracket. This strap left me stranded in the middle of Ohio one Saturday, 4 years ago. The terminal on the red strap tends to crack if overtorqued. Junk! 8. I am very anal about fuses. I fuse everything that goes through sheet metal (except the main battery cables, that task is handled by the solenoid). Fuses are cheap, don’t skimp on them. 9. Most sanctioning bodies require that the battery be placed in a box. Prepare accordingly and make sure you use the same 3/8" threaded ROD to bolt the box AND the battery through the floor (that is required by NHRA anyway). Use a large thick washer under the floor to prevent the battery from pulling through the floor in an accident. Rods with a J hook at the end are not usually accepted at the track. By the way, I do crash testing for the Big Three and I'm telling you that a 30lbs battery can do some serious damage if it comes loose in a crash. 10. 1Gauge battery cable is fine to handle most jobs. 2 Gauge might be a bit small. 1/0Gauge is overkill, but if you like to over design by all means please do so. Just keep in mind that larger cables require larger connectors and terminals and they are not always easy to find. 11. Welding cable is not designed to live in the harsh environment under a car (at least not the stuff I have seen around here). Buy proper cable from Taylor or other. Those cables have the correct sheating to withstand the heat and cold. For the positive cable at the starter motor, make a small bracket to hold the cable to one of the transmission bolts (using tie straps). This will strain relief the cable and not put the connector on the starter under constant load when the motor bounces or torques. 12. With enough patience and a fish tape, you can use existing holes in the trunk to route the cables and wires to the starter. It's a good idea to cover the wire bundle with convolute or protective plastic tubing. Again, use grommets to prevent a short. Parts needed: Battery box (sealed) Wiring kit for battery relocation Summit SUM-G1750 or MAD Electrical or similar Remote Solenoid kit General purpose relay For racing you ALSO need: Painless #50105 Alternator cut-off switch (solenoid) Taylor 1033 or Moroso 74102 master cut-off switch As you can see, this is a lot of work.
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/28052-Relocating-a-battery-to-the-trunk
What's up with the last picture you posted? That's a crimped connection that came apart.
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