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"Cobra" conversion using 99-02 Continental 4V

Discussion in 'New Edge Cobras' started by scottydsntknow, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Figured you guys might find this interesting. For cheap replacement engines/parts or anyone doing a 4V conversion in a GT or whatever.

    Got a 50k mile 99 Conti engine for $500 locally from a yard. Yard had a video of the engine running in the car with the odometer. Engine was stupid ridiculous clean when I opened it up. Oil was golden/new, no coking anywhere, water pump new, rear main looks like it was just done. Perk of buying an "old person car" engine. I bet this thing never saw over 3k RPM and had all the maintenance done religiously.

    99 Conti engines share the same XR3E intake cams with the 99 Cobra at 202 duration as well as the "99/01 Cobra" C heads. Didn't touch them. 00-02 engines have the regular Lincoln intake cams so the 99 is the most desirable one. Heads are the same tho.

    What all is different?

    -Bellhousing bolt pattern - using adapter for this, custom made by a shop

    -Front cover - Have a 96-99 front cover, it bolts right on

    -Oil pan - Any 4.6L Mustang pan works

    -Dipstick - You need to use the Continental tube/stick as the bung in the block is in a different location. Also have to bend it or tap it with hammer to make it hug the block or else the driver's engine mount won't fit over it.

    -Oil cooler/coolant fitting ports - Conti coolant port is round, not squared off like the Mustang block but the Mustang/Cobra fitting still bolts right on and the gasket seals... barely, not an issue.

    -Passenger side engine mount - Only 1 bolt hole exists on the Conti block on the passenger side for the engine mount there. Luckily the bosses for the RWD mount are there. Drill and tap them. 8.7mm drill and the M10x1.5 tap and done. I started small and worked up to the 8.7mm drill and used masking tape to mark the bits so I didn't drill too deep.

    -Cooling - There is no "crack pipe" on these so you need to get one. I have 2 so I'm going to also do a DIY driver's head cooling mod while I'm in there. You need the Cobra coolant crossover up front. The Conti coolant return tube that runs under the intake is different and bolts to the passenger side head but you can use it, just need a different rubber tube to attach it to the heater core.

    -Intake - You'll obviously need a 99/01 or Mach intake manifold and those specific parts. I got everything from FB/Forum classifieds.

    *Edited from posts further down for completeness.

    Other found "gotchas" with this block

    -Mustang power steering pump does not mount flush to the block without very minor grinding on a lip that is there. Once that is ground down it fits fine.

    -Bolt holes where the AC bolts up to on the Mustang block are M6, the ones on the Conti are M10. Bore out the holes on the AC compressor with a 7/16 drill bit and M10 bolts go right through and into the block, mounts perfectly this way.

    -Starter will bang into the block if you try to bolt it on without modifying it. The good news... the part that bangs into the block is the ear for the top bolt which nobody ever uses. I just cut it off and shaved a little metal off in a few spots and done.

    -Not the block but the Conti passenger valve cover has the vac port on the back. Makes the heater core hose very tight but it fits. As far as the port itself just extend the hose back to it and done.

    -Transmission separator plate will need a little trimming as with the adapter bolted up it kisses the back of the flywheel. Only needs trimmed around the raised area where the flywheel bolts to the crank.

    -Bellhousing port where the clutch fork comes through will need about 1/2" of material taken out or the fork will bottom out on the bell and clutch will not fully engage/disengage.


    I'm probably about $1k into this between the Conti engine, Mach intake/parts and nickel/dime stuff. Not bad for a 50k mile "Cobra" engine. Getting ready to drop it in this weekend or early next week. Enginepickup.jpg rearmain.jpg top.jpg contiadapter.jpg coolantgotcha.jpg bosstaps.jpg xr3ecam.jpg cams.jpg engine.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2017
  2. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    What's the compression ratio on that engine? Is that adapter something that's readily available or does it need to be custom made?

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  3. ashleyroachclip

    ashleyroachclip Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I had completly forgotten about thos front frive 4 cams .
    I have followed your thread on another site .
     
  4. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    A shop custom made this. I actually got it second hand from a Corral member. But any competent transmission shop should be able to do it. Its not exactly complicated. Same pistons as all the 4vs got except the termi obviously.

    Yep, and there were a good number of them made and they are cheap. I'm always seeing 99-02 Continental heads/engines for next to nothing around here. This one is the best one I've ever seen tho.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2017
  5. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Also pic of the weird ass oil tube setup on this engine plus everything buttoned up. oil.jpg driverside.jpg
     
  6. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    Aside from it being tall it's not that weird. Looks pretty close to mine. You can always run a Lokar dip stick too.

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  7. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Nah, can't run the Lokar, its setup for the stang and it goes too deep into the pan. The Conti port is like... right where the sump starts, not in the super deep part so you need to run the Conti dipstick that doesn't bottom out. I honestly don't know if the marks will even be accurate but as long as I can get oil on the dipstick when I know its full I can etch it and be good.
     
  8. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    I guess I'm not understanding what you're talking about. I went and looked at my Boss block and the dip stick hole is in the same spot. And I know my dip stick comes up by the manifold like your pic. When I say dip stick I'm referring to both the tube and the cable inside. To me I can't see why you couldn't use a Mustang dip stick. But I've never dealt with the FWD engines.


    f25381c03b07794dfce4addb843e0a65.jpg

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  9. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Look again. The Conti block has the dipstick port between the 2nd and 3rd sidecap bolt. The Mustang blocks have it between the 3rd and 4th.
     
  10. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    In case anyone wants to know what the adapter looks like installed. I'm waiting on one part to arrive in the mail, supposed to arrive today and then I'll be dropping it in. Also have a second "crack pipe" I've modded I'm installing on the driver's side head for the cooling mod.

    It's a full blown 99/01 Cobra engine meow.

    I will say the grinding to get the adapter to sit flush is a pain in the ass but it is what it is. Few hours with a few good grinding bits and beer and 4 letter words and G2G.
    adapterinstalled.jpg cobraengine.jpg
     
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  11. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Engine is in. Finally holy crap... Putting a 4V in from the top is hairy... not easy like the 2V but it went...

    2 other other "gotchas" I found out with the Continental block. The 1st one is the adapter itself, the plate that goes between the trans and the block needs the holes where it goes into the studs machined to 9/16 so the plate can sit flush because of the base of the studs on the adapter being 9/16".

    The other one is that the Conti block interferes with the top starter bolt on the starter case itself. There is extra material there. Nobody uses that top bolt anyway so I just cut that part off and then had to do a little grinding on the case to get the starter to fit. Not a huge issue.

    Glad I test fit it beforehand because dropping the 4V in with the starter is a no-go vs being able to have it attached installing a 2V. But its all good now. Once I get the intake manifold on nobody would ever know its a FWD block by looking at it. The adapter worked perfectly, whoever made this adapter really knew wtf they were doing.
     

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  12. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    FWIW it is possible to have the starter installed while dropping the engine in. That's how I did it. I didn't think dropping the 4v in was too bad. But glad it's coming together for you.

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  13. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I don't see how it would have gone in but ymmv. 2v was a lot easier for me with more room. Although once we got the starter off and got a few things that kept catching it went in easy enough. They are just really shoehorned in...
     
  14. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    The last time I dropped my engine in it had the T-56 bellhousing, starter, headers, and intake on. Just had to go slow. But it does work. You definitely notice how wide this valve covers are when dropping in these engines.

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  15. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Lol yeah I had the whole T45 attached to it, if I coulda gone straight down I probably coulda got it. No biggie, just gotta fight the starter under the car, will get it tonight after work along with starting to hook up all the coolant and accessories.
     
  16. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    2 more "gotchas" with this block and that'll be it because there is nothing left to hook up. AC compressor bolt holes are M10. Ream out the AC compressor holes with a 7/16 bit and use M10 bolts and good. The other is the power steering pump bangs into a piece of metal on the block that needs to be ground down. Wish I knew that before putting it in but dremel with a flex attachment and a carbide bit=good. At this point its wiring up the coils and alternator hooking up some BS and hopefully she starts.
     
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  17. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    All accessories on... plus wiring hooked up and a lot of other little stuff taken care of. Stupid PS pump was a pain to get enough clearance with little 1/8 shank bits but got it.

    Tomorrow is wiring up coils for 4V, alternator pigtail and then start running vac lines. Getting very close... need to keep pushing.
     
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  18. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Yay for 4V swap wiring... fml... will triple check that I reversed polarity on every coil and the alt tomorrow before taping and looming it all. Just tedious as hell...

    Pretty much just hooking stuff up now. Only difference I can think of left is the vac port on the passenger valve cover for the Conti is in the back. That's just a simple line extension to the intake tube.
     

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  19. scottydsntknow

    scottydsntknow Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Driveshaft needed to be shortened about 3/4". That is with the spacer so probably a little less for a normal swap. And that is only because its also IRS swapped. Got key on today just to pull the strategy and make sure all electronics work and so far so good. As soon as I get the tune hopefully we are good...

    Note to anyone needing a tuner... SCT X3 are cheap AF and work great.
     
  20. XXWildCoyoteXX

    XXWildCoyoteXX Member Established Member

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    They are nice but depending on the area you live, it tends to be hard finding someone thats a SCT tuner. Software is so expensive from them and unless you have a huge mustang following in the area, most of the time tuners wont have that software. Usually running HPTuners cause its cheaper and more versitile.
    Other then that, Props to the swap.
     

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