"Cobra" conversion using 99-02 Continental 4V

52merc

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I finally got my GW bushings. I still need to order the X2s as Amazon let me down on that one. If I had to do it all over again I'd go with the BMRs.

BTW, the GWs look awesome.

Good luck with your front end rebuild.
 

scottydsntknow

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Thx. I bet those bushings do look good.

Yeah front suspension will be fun but worth it. As much as I really want to stay all Steeda stuff and get the Steeda K... they are ****ing crazy charging a grand plus a month+ fab time for their K. I've talked to ppl who actually run the UPR stuff IRL and they all swear by it. Plus I want to lose weight up front and get as much clearance for longtubes as I can. So plan is UPR mild steel K with spring perches, BMR A arms with the X2 style balljoints, offset rack bushings, new shocks/springs/struts on all 4 corners and not sure if I'll need a bumpsteer kit. Probably good to get one... Also want to do the MM steering link while I'm in there but that can get done whenever and is easy.
 

scottydsntknow

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Car just passed its 1st annual Spanish inspection. The engine has ran so damn good the whole year I'm gonna leave it. Put about 3k on the car this year so car is at 37k and engine at 55k. Front is squeaking like a mofo so up next is a full front overhaul and also finishing up what is left in the rear minus gears. I think I'm gonna do 4.10s but... Euro highway speeds and 3.27s are really nice...

Anyway...

Out back:

FTBR tie rods, Tokico Blue shocks to match the front Tokico Blues and Steeda IRS Sport Springs to match the front springs

Front:

UPR Mild Steel K with perches
BMR Tubular A Arms with Tall (X2) balljoints
New inner and outer tie rods
New end links
MM CC plates
MM streering linkage

Full alignment on all 4 corners.

Setting me up for upgrading to a full longtube exhaust when budget allows. Probably Pacesetter armorcoat longtubes, their mid pipe with dummy cats welded in, new IRS exhaust, delete EGR and delete PCV with a new tune for all of it.

Calling Lethal on Monday to get shipping issues worked out for the A arms and Tokicos, other stuff is ordered. Will be fun doing it in the street since no actual garage at my house... although I am 100 yards from a legit AF Spanish beach. I get depressed in the summer I go for a walk on that beach... I'll let you guys figure out why lol.
 

scottydsntknow

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Been almost another whole year. Passed 3rd inspection in total last week. Hopefully going to be here awhile. Love it here. Going on a cruise to Cadiz Sierra on Sunday with the local club and then taking the car down for about a month or as long as it takes to install a whole Maximum Motorsports front setup and finally get the last few FTBR pieces installed in the IRS. That would be their tie rods and correct front diff aluminum bushings, also some D spec shocks and Steeda Sport springs, no isolators and it doesn't have them now and is silent so gonna keep it that way.

Front is getting a MM K member, forward offset A arms with Delrin, coilovers, swaybar relocation, On3 oil filter relocation, MM steering arm, MM bumpsteer, and MM #325 coilovers with D specs up front.

Then I will drive the hell out of it, do some minor tracking in Jerez and just enjoy it. If I get my orders extended out another 4 years I'm going to see about getting a hood shipped out here in a container and then get it painted. Maybe a body kit too. Paint is stupid cheap here like retarded cheap. A good paintjob is 800 euros and a REAL good one is like 1200 euros... exchange is .90 euro to $1 so you do the math. Cost of living here in Southern Spain is crazy, as an E6 living overseas with all the allowances I make more than an established Spanish lawyer and then pay probably half the taxes they do.

Final plan with this car once all the cosmetics are done is going to be rear IRS coilovers and Konis with springs to match and actually be able to track it properly at the circuit here. I was going to build an engine on the side but this JY Continental engine has had the everliving snot beat out of it since I've been here and its just taking it. Never misses a beat, hardly uses any oil and pulls HARD to redline.
 

CobraBob

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That's great that you're finishing it. Been a long process for you.

Post some photos when it's completed.

So how many years have you been in the service?
 

scottydsntknow

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I thought MM didn't recommend the offset control arms with their K member?

Never heard of that. The optimal setup with the MM K is the forward setup. They only say not to use their REAR offset control arms on a stock K with a fox setup.

That's great that you're finishing it. Been a long process for you.

Post some photos when it's completed.

So how many years have you been in the service?

Well all the drivetrain/suspension/exhaust upgrades should be done in a month or two unless the mail gets shut down because of covid19. I'm also rebuilding the whole IRS pumpkin with new clutches, bearings and a set of 4.30 gears. Thing should haul ass.
 

Kornilov

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Havent read the whole thread, but does anyone know of a source for obtaining the FWD block to RWD trans adapter commercially - as in does anyone sell one? I am very intrigued by this swap and there are alot of Continentals in the junkyards around me.
 

scottydsntknow

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Mine was custom, I actually got it off a member from the Corral who was surprised when he pulled the "Cobra" engine out of his car and found it was a Conti block with an adapter.

I suggest you read the whole thread, there is more to modifying the block than just the adapter. There are a lot of little differences.

Any competent transmission shop should be able to make one for you. If not, start grabbing up those Conti engines and parting them. What I was doing before I got orders overseas. 99-02 Contis have "99/01" Cobra heads, cast crank you can sell and the valve covers are desirable because the PVC port is in the back on both covers. Plus most of the time the heads come with the COPs still in them, that's $75 right there. I usually paid $200-$400 for Conti motors and the one I have in my car was $550 because it was verified low mileage running.

Also 99 Contis have the same 202 duration intake cams as 99 Cobras. Only 99s. That's another $125.
 

Kornilov

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Mine was custom, I actually got it off a member from the Corral who was surprised when he pulled the "Cobra" engine out of his car and found it was a Conti block with an adapter.

I suggest you read the whole thread, there is more to modifying the block than just the adapter. There are a lot of little differences.

Any competent transmission shop should be able to make one for you. If not, start grabbing up those Conti engines and parting them. What I was doing before I got orders overseas. 99-02 Contis have "99/01" Cobra heads, cast crank you can sell and the valve covers are desirable because the PVC port is in the back on both covers. Plus most of the time the heads come with the COPs still in them, that's $75 right there. I usually paid $200-$400 for Conti motors and the one I have in my car was $550 because it was verified low mileage running.

Also 99 Contis have the same 202 duration intake cams as 99 Cobras. Only 99s. That's another $125.

Good input. Thanks. So 99-02 are the desirable years? I read up to page 2 of the thread and was under the impression that 99 was the only year with Cobra cams and heads.
 

scottydsntknow

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99 is the only year with the same cams as that year Cobra. All 99-02 Contis have the 99/01 heads. I would get so many cheap engines out of JYs or small time parts sellers who didn't know the heads were the same ones as the Cobra. Made a lot of money flipping parts that way. Best was paying $200 for a whole engine and then making $800 in parts.

But if you did get a bellhousing adapter I would read the thread completely. You have to drill and tap the block on the right side, hog out the AC compressor for the Continental size AC bolts, modify the starter and grind on the block by the power steering pump mount. Plus the GT oil filter fitting won't work, you have to use the Cobra one.

Again, the ONLY reason I did this was because I got that bellhousing adapter for dirt cheap from someone on the corral who just had it on the shelf and I asked about it. If not I would have went with the real low mileage B head Mark VIII motor, deleted the IMRCs, changed the springs and rolled.
 

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