CLutch Adjustments?

DSG03Snake

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Ok, is there any way to adjust the clutch besides the "put it in first and put foot under the pedal and lift up as hard as possible", because my clutch is starting to get tons of play and just feels sloppy and crappy. But when I try that method of adjusting the clutch I don't hear the "click" that people mention, so I dont think any adjustment is being done.

Can anything be done, by a guy who sucks with his hands, to improve the feel/adjust our clutch without getting aftermarket parts?
 

KiLLaBytE

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nope, the stock clutch setup is self-adjusting.

even if you adjust it manually, it will re-adjust itself over time. i suggest you get at least the firewall adjuster ($40), but i would recommend the UPR 3-hook quadrant as well (allows for better adjustment). i have both and love it! :beer:
 

DSG03Snake

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See the problem is from some of the people who have bought a UPR they said they have had to make some adjustments to the UPR products because they werent gripping the cable properly or some such BS. I have absolutely 0 tools so installing it I could probably do, but if I had to trim metal or something of the likes I dont have the ability to do that.

Did you have any issues Killa, or did it work right out of the box? I was thinking about the UPR firewall and quadrant.
 

KiLLaBytE

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i'm going to have to say if modification was required, it wasn't done properly.

i had no issues, the only tool i used was needle nose pliers to pull the 2 clips holding the quadrant on. install took about 30 mins my first time doing it.

good luck in your decision making. :)
 
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DSG03Snake

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Thanks.

Did this make a big difference for you? People have said its "night and day" but I'm not sure if that is true or not.

Anyone have any comments on the UPR vs the Steeda?
 
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TRBO VNM

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tools were needle nose for the cotter pins as previously mentioned, philips screwdriver, 5mm socket, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension, pair of cutting dikes.

I have the same setup as killabyte

be very careful with the cotterpins. I lost one and had to make it.

the hardest part was removing the small plastic part of the factory quadrant.

first remove the 2 cotterpins
then remove the large quadrant, be careful it is under a small load from the spring(you will see it)
Then I unhooked the other spring used on the smaller quadrant piece from the clutch pedal and manipulated it all off with needle nose pliers.
go in engine compartment and remove 2, 5mm bolts that hold the cable to the firewall.
pull cable through firewall on engine compartment side
cut off factory plastic firewall bracket and remove rubber spacer
remove the driver side plug wire cover(2, 10mm bolts)(makes for getting lower screw in UPR adjuster very easy.
I slipped the metal sleeve over the cable and then over the plastic end that is attached to the cable. Then put the adjuster over the sleeve and tightened the allen screw to the sleeve.
removed the adjuster and put it in the firewall
lined up the screw holes and put the screws in(mine came with only 2 screws, so I used those and want to get a third for the other hole provided on the adjuster. be careful not to overtighten and strip the holes in the firewall
then put cable through adjuster/firewall and screwed the adjuster into the firewall.
went back under dash and put cable hook onto the middle hook of the quadrant
put quadrant onto clutch pedal and put cotterpins back in.
re-install plug wire cover and unscrew adjuster until desired point

should only take 30 min...

yes, night and day. I can shift with the pedal half in. Basically need to learn how to shift again since now I can do it faster.

don't follow the directions from UPR...they are not updated. I need to call Jeremy about it and see about getting them updated.
 
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03CobraCCC

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i know what your going through with the stock adjuster..I had one missed powershift and ever since then it duznt like me anymore....weird sloppy feeling...and after adjusting and driving about 5-10 miles it would go back to feeling its crappy self again..thats what they get for making the teeth out of plastic...

the clicks are not loud, very low key, and occur about an inch before the pedal touches the floor...should hear 2 in a row...

are you pulling up on the pedal all the way? you should fell/hear a certain thunk.


Anyways, just got my Clutch Quad/FW Adj. from Amazon Racing, they use the UPR Extreme..and I'll trust Ricks word...anyways its going in Sunday....and I'll let you know if it truely is night and day...
 

caveman6666

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Originally posted by DSG03Snake
Ok, is there any way to adjust the clutch besides the "put it in first and put foot under the pedal and lift up as hard as possible", because my clutch is starting to get tons of play and just feels sloppy and crappy. But when I try that method of adjusting the clutch I don't hear the "click" that people mention, so I dont think any adjustment is being done.

Can anything be done, by a guy who sucks with his hands, to improve the feel/adjust our clutch without getting aftermarket parts?

Mine won't adjust that way either. Slide under there, note how it works and do it by hand.
 

SnakeBit

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Originally posted by DSG03Snake
Thanks.

Did this make a big difference for you? People have said its "night and day" but I'm not sure if that is true or not.

Anyone have any comments on the UPR vs the Steeda?
As far as the quadrant, they are similar. I have not tried the new Steeda Firewall adjuster, but the UPR Extreme is the best I've used yet. On my 98, I started out all Steeda, but got fed up with their old style F/W Adjuster not staying in place, even with gobbs of silicone seal on the threads, so I ditched it and bought the UPR adjuster (left the Steeda quadrant on though).

In spite of their reputation for copying other products, UPR's adjuster is the leader of the pack, IMO.
 

Snake_Eyes

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I adjusted mine once and havent after that. I feels a little loose for about 2 inches then it catches. It feels like I have to slam it to be sure to get a good shift
 

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