Check charging system light issue

[Zeke0123]

Ok the light first came on and I replaced the battery...still there and i had alternator tested came up bad...rebuilt it beefed it up to 180 amp because under load was drawing 143 fanned intercooler etc i guess causing higher draw...put in the new alternator and everything tests fine but light is still coming on ?? any ideas ?

 

[Zeke0123]

Also now after doing some driving the lights are dimming a little and the rpms drop at little at idle...it seems normal when it's got throttle... I also hooked up my tuner to "clear codes" but it did not have any codes to clear.

 

[VNMOUS1]

How many rpm does your alternator turn at idle. Could be too low.

PLEASE REACH ME VIA EMAIL AT [email protected] AS OPPOSED TO PM. THANKS.

 

[Zeke0123]

How many rpm does your alternator turn at idle. Could be too low.

PLEASE REACH ME VIA EMAIL AT [email protected] AS OPPOSED TO PM. THANKS.

It's the stock configuration alternator with new guts...I haven't installed any different accessory pulleys...I can't be sure tonight if the rebuilder changed the pulley but I don't think so...I can find out tommorow.

 

[2011 gtcs]

What's it's charging at idle mine is between 14.0 and 14.4 I would have just used a stock replacement one

 

[Zeke0123]

What's it's charging at idle mine is between 14.0 and 14.4 I would have just used a stock replacement one

Ill check when I'm home but it came up "normal" on the shop tests...I didn't go stock replacement because when I researched it the 09 have an issue with the stock unit shitting the bed at a very early age..my car only has 7500 on the odo.

 

[Zeke0123]

It's a little better than it was before the rebuild but it's still acting up.

 

[bossnova3]

Your problem is the top part of the alternator "forgot" the name, but it's the controller the part that actually plugs in to the cars harness. Their are 2 types one that's controlled by the PCM which is the one that you need, and another that's not controlled by the PCM which is probably what you got. Ask me how I know LOL....
Found link buy this and good luck:
Ford 6G PCM Controlled Voltage Regulator

Ed

 

[Zeke0123]

Your problem is the top part of the alternator "forgot" the name, but it's the controller the part that actually plugs in to the cars harness. Their are 2 types one that's controlled by the PCM which is the one that you need, and another that's not controlled by the PCM which is probably what you got. Ask me how I know LOL....
Found link buy this and good luck:
Ford 6G PCM Controlled Voltage Regulator

Ed

Thanks a ton...just got home from work and ill get this straight as soon as a wake up haha .

 

[bossnova3]

Let us know how it came out. The only thing that sucks is having to take the alternator back out, but its necessary.

Good luck
Ed

 

[Joe_Kool315]

I was going to ask if you had the Diode pack rebuilt at the same time. "typically" that's what goes bad on the average Alternator over bad winding/bearing/brushes (other "typical" wear items) MOST "bad" alternators just need the diode pack (voltage regulator) replaced/rebuilt. If you had the Alternator rebuilt by someone in the know ... I wonder if they didn't do this as part of the rebuild,if it's rebuildable. It could just be a module and you have to replace the whole module if it's a PCM controlled item like mentioned above. The old diode packs/regulators were esentially 4 diodes in a diode bridge and a resistor/group of resistors to level out the A/C current generated by the alternator into a nice "clean" DC voltage.

 

[Zeke0123]

It was the voltage regulator....pulled the Alt changed out the voltage regulator and made sure it was the PCM controlled and problem solved.

 

[bossnova3]

You're welcome, good job enjoy.....

 

[Zeke0123]

You're welcome, good job enjoy.....

Ahh sorry very rude of me TYVM Boss ....and I am enjoying it..believe it or not it seems to be running a bit "stronger".

 

[bossnova3]

No problem man enjoy that beast, and happy holidays be safe...

 

[me32]

glad it was fixed