It is almost impossible not to ask. Was your car tuned? As far as I know leading tuners supporting this forum figured that the reason to #8 issue was the factory tune. Wondering if your car is stock?
Cheapest Way to fix Cylinder 8 Failure--another one--Cheapest rebuild/fix -HELP
- Thread starter coyoteugly5.0
- Start date
Yep we sell all the gaskets and bolts you'll need.
As far as reliability goes I mean it should be just as reliable as any other stock engine as long as the cylinder walls are in good shape and it's re assembled correctly.
As far as reliability goes I mean it should be just as reliable as any other stock engine as long as the cylinder walls are in good shape and it's re assembled correctly.
read first post... does not say it was tuned, but says "I accepted my warranty was crap several mods ago"
Judging by his latest posts, it's a bolt on car tuned by Tuners INC....
I wished you were right. I seen forged rods and pistons for around 1000 bucks, how much should I pay for balancing? Will I need special rod bolts or bearing etc to hang with the forged pistons and rods? Just trying to see how much I would be going in versus just fixing it, taking that money to get myself so I'm not upside down in the financing and sell it to buy another one. I've just already got so much money in this car, I just spent over 2 grand getting the rear end fixed a month ago.
If you read the above, this is more than likely going to be my route so I can just get it together and sell it. May get a 13-14 model and be done with it.
Nail on the head. So far 4.10 gears, cai, o/r x pipe, and yes, tuner inc tune out of orange park.
However, I don't blame tuners inc, that tune was strong as hell, I believe it was damage done using the bama tune. Bama sent me a tune several different times and couldn't get it right, running rich, bouncing off rev limiter between shifts etc, I think the tune from tuners inc is the best the car ever ran.
Last edited:
Few questions
After looking at pricing to get the forged internals/boss rotating assembly/shortblock rebuild , and considering my current position I'm in financially, I've decided to cheap out and just try to get this car back on the road asap.
Can I re-use my head studs and nuts?
What would be the disadvantage of re-using them if so?
Can I pull just the drivers head, drop the oil pan, and change the piston and rod?
Can I re use anything? (rod bearings, main bearing, etc)I think I read somewhere they were specific for each rod?
Even if the block is scorned up, can I just bore .005 over and get oversized rings? If so, does this make a weak link?
If I get lucky and cheap out, how reliable is just replacing the ring and piston?
In the worst case scenario, and the cylinder wall is scorned, can I just get it re sleeved and replace the rod, piston, and ring? How much should I pay for something like a re sleeve job at a maching shop, and where do I buy the sleeve?
I obviously want the car to be reliable after its all back together, but I'm really tight right now money wise, and need the cheapest alternative.
Does anyone know of any step by step guides on someone removing the 5.0 from a 2011 mustang? I've googled and had no luck at all. I've pulled several engines before, but would like a guid to make sure this job is done right
Also, where are the parts? I looked on oreillys and didn't see a complete engine gasket set? I imagine it would be cheaper, because pulling the engine I'll need them exhaust collector gaskets, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket etc
So far I'm thinking for the parts list
Rod
Piston
Bearing
Engine gasket set
8 quarts oil
coolant
So again, do I need to buy new head studs? Rod bearings? What am I missing...
After looking at pricing to get the forged internals/boss rotating assembly/shortblock rebuild , and considering my current position I'm in financially, I've decided to cheap out and just try to get this car back on the road asap.
Can I re-use my head studs and nuts?
What would be the disadvantage of re-using them if so?
Can I pull just the drivers head, drop the oil pan, and change the piston and rod?
Can I re use anything? (rod bearings, main bearing, etc)I think I read somewhere they were specific for each rod?
Even if the block is scorned up, can I just bore .005 over and get oversized rings? If so, does this make a weak link?
If I get lucky and cheap out, how reliable is just replacing the ring and piston?
In the worst case scenario, and the cylinder wall is scorned, can I just get it re sleeved and replace the rod, piston, and ring? How much should I pay for something like a re sleeve job at a maching shop, and where do I buy the sleeve?
I obviously want the car to be reliable after its all back together, but I'm really tight right now money wise, and need the cheapest alternative.
Does anyone know of any step by step guides on someone removing the 5.0 from a 2011 mustang? I've googled and had no luck at all. I've pulled several engines before, but would like a guid to make sure this job is done right
Also, where are the parts? I looked on oreillys and didn't see a complete engine gasket set? I imagine it would be cheaper, because pulling the engine I'll need them exhaust collector gaskets, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket etc
So far I'm thinking for the parts list
Rod
Piston
Bearing
Engine gasket set
8 quarts oil
coolant
So again, do I need to buy new head studs? Rod bearings? What am I missing...
i live in orange park. and no offense to tuners INC but i think thats your problem. ive heard of them damaging two other mustangs that i know locally. and i brought them a GM car and it never ran right and this was supposed to be their specialty. talk to them about what happened. and if its the bama tune well they offer their #8 warranty but not sure if you can go that route. worth looking into. all this #8 crap is why my 14 GT is staying un-tuned for now. when my warranty goes then ill pull the trigger.
just put the head change kit on the list. it gives you a set of head gaskets and head bolts and is about $100. part number is m6067m50br (for 12mm bolts) or m6067m50br11 (for 11mm bolts). make sure which bolts you have.
you should be able to reuse the rod bearing. they are not custom sized like the main bearings.
Running a bama tune and failed a #8. I would contact them to see what they have to say.
Users who are viewing this thread
