It is almost impossible not to ask. Was your car tuned? As far as I know leading tuners supporting this forum figured that the reason to #8 issue was the factory tune. Wondering if your car is stock?
sorry to hear i was wrong. i was pulling for you and your engine. i would still consider dumping the pcv system for a breather setup once you have it back together.
its about cost neutral to buy the new boss crank vs having the gt crank rebalanced. on the plus side of rebalancing, you don't need to worry about getting new main bearings (they are individually sized to each journal). but, i would take the jpc deal and call it a day. having boss internals doesn't add resale value and only mildly better than gt internals. if you really want the strength, get a full forged aftermarket piston and rod setup, balance the crank to those and get arp head studs to button her up with.
Yep we sell all the gaskets and bolts you'll need.
As far as reliability goes I mean it should be just as reliable as any other stock engine as long as the cylinder walls are in good shape and it's re assembled correctly.
Judging by his latest posts, it's a bolt on car tuned by Tuners INC....
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Nail on the head. So far 4.10 gears, cai, o/r x pipe, and yes, tuner inc tune out of orange park.
However, I don't blame tuners inc, that tune was strong as hell, I believe it was damage done using the bama tune. Bama sent me a tune several different times and couldn't get it right, running rich, bouncing off rev limiter between shifts etc, I think the tune from tuners inc is the best the car ever ran.
Few questions
After looking at pricing to get the forged internals/boss rotating assembly/shortblock rebuild , and considering my current position I'm in financially, I've decided to cheap out and just try to get this car back on the road asap.
Can I re-use my head studs and nuts?
What would be the disadvantage of re-using them if so?
Can I pull just the drivers head, drop the oil pan, and change the piston and rod?
Can I re use anything? (rod bearings, main bearing, etc)I think I read somewhere they were specific for each rod?
Even if the block is scorned up, can I just bore .005 over and get oversized rings? If so, does this make a weak link?
If I get lucky and cheap out, how reliable is just replacing the ring and piston?
In the worst case scenario, and the cylinder wall is scorned, can I just get it re sleeved and replace the rod, piston, and ring? How much should I pay for something like a re sleeve job at a maching shop, and where do I buy the sleeve?
I obviously want the car to be reliable after its all back together, but I'm really tight right now money wise, and need the cheapest alternative.
Does anyone know of any step by step guides on someone removing the 5.0 from a 2011 mustang? I've googled and had no luck at all. I've pulled several engines before, but would like a guid to make sure this job is done right
Also, where are the parts? I looked on oreillys and didn't see a complete engine gasket set? I imagine it would be cheaper, because pulling the engine I'll need them exhaust collector gaskets, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket etc
So far I'm thinking for the parts list
Rod
Piston
Bearing
Engine gasket set
8 quarts oil
coolant
So again, do I need to buy new head studs? Rod bearings? What am I missing...