any updates?
i am interested in the build..going down the same route now with the CG kit.
i am interested in the build..going down the same route now with the CG kit.
CG Fabrication turbo build
- Thread starter static74
- Start date
Small update - this stuff is really time consuming.
With the motor out and the last nice days upon us for the year, I pushed the car outside and cleaned my filthy ass engine bay. I'm planning on tucking as much wire and fluid line as possible, so this is stage one of that. I will be looking at the scot rod fab panels.
You may remember me ceramic coating the CG Fabrication hot side, I've decided to take it one step further this year and use 2000* header wrap to try and hold in additional heat and energy.
Before the wrap job, you can see my in car attempt at keeping heat away from some brake lines.
After the wrap job. I neglected to use gloves or long sleeves and I paid the price with itchy arms and hands for the next day. I found the material more easy to work with once soaked in water overnight. I'm still admittedly bad at wrapping a part with so many bends.
Engine block is back from the machine shop. With a 280 grit hone everything turned out pretty nice. Also was able to get the crank cleaned up without any drama. Rod and main journals all within factory spec so I was able to use standard sized bearings. I chose King coated bearings for both the mains and rods. Forgot to take a picture of them fresh, but here is one in a rod. Got these from Mod Max Racing btw, great price and awesome customer service.
One bottle of assembly lube and arp moly later, a short block is complete.
Oh, and lastly, on an impulse I bought Welds. This landed me in some hot water.
More to come soon!
With the motor out and the last nice days upon us for the year, I pushed the car outside and cleaned my filthy ass engine bay. I'm planning on tucking as much wire and fluid line as possible, so this is stage one of that. I will be looking at the scot rod fab panels.
You may remember me ceramic coating the CG Fabrication hot side, I've decided to take it one step further this year and use 2000* header wrap to try and hold in additional heat and energy.
Before the wrap job, you can see my in car attempt at keeping heat away from some brake lines.
After the wrap job. I neglected to use gloves or long sleeves and I paid the price with itchy arms and hands for the next day. I found the material more easy to work with once soaked in water overnight. I'm still admittedly bad at wrapping a part with so many bends.
Engine block is back from the machine shop. With a 280 grit hone everything turned out pretty nice. Also was able to get the crank cleaned up without any drama. Rod and main journals all within factory spec so I was able to use standard sized bearings. I chose King coated bearings for both the mains and rods. Forgot to take a picture of them fresh, but here is one in a rod. Got these from Mod Max Racing btw, great price and awesome customer service.
One bottle of assembly lube and arp moly later, a short block is complete.
Oh, and lastly, on an impulse I bought Welds. This landed me in some hot water.
More to come soon!
Scott Rod panels are amazing! Best part is you don't have to cut out your factory aprons! Currently doing a CG Fab TT Kit and 4v swap in my GT. 
Last edited:
Scott Rod panels are amazing! Best part is you don't have to cut out your factory aprons! Currently doing a CG Fab TT Kit and 4v swap in my GT.
Very nice. Did you move your brake lines? Noticed they are missing
I'm putting it off because it's going to be a pain in the ass, but I'm going to move all my brake lines on the passenger side under the frame rail or more into the fender. I want to hide them and keep them away from the heat.
Same here but gona have to bend my own lines ect...ill prob do that when i replace the clutch
No I didn't, they're just covered in the foil for spray. I was planning on doing so though.
Update!
So I decided my overall theme of my engine bay will be black, silver, and white. Before I had a mix of everything so I wanted to tone it down and go for an overall clean look. My fuel rails, the red areomotive set, was my first victim. They come with a red anodized coating which had to go, I thought they would look good in a natural aluminum finish. I needed to remove the red and I didnt want sand anywhere near them, so I chose to chemically remove the coating with sodium hydroxide (lye).
The old setup
I found a cheap HDPE container at home goods that was the perfect size for the rails. I ordered a pound of granulated lye off amazon and mixed it with 180* water in the container. I slowly placed the rails in the mixture and BAM! SCIENCE BITCH. If you do this at home, do it outside. The reaction creates hydrogen gas which is extremely flammable, you can kind of see it in the picture.
Installed on the fleshly powder coated intake with the ID1300's.
Started placing covers and timing equipment back on the block. I chose to do a moroso windage tray this time around and I used the double gasket method for install, hoping for no leaks. I had nothing but trouble with my canton. The oil pickup had some goofy plate hanging off the side of it that was cut off and ground down flat with the tube.
A friend talked me into the MMR billet valve cover hardware, it was super expensive but they look fantastic. I used black oxide fasteners. Too bad no one makes anything black that doesnt rust easily.
I chose to sandblast my factory dampener and rattle can it flat black. I also opted to use black oxide fasteners on the intake and upper alternator. I really want this to look sharp when its finished. As of now I'm trying to chase down COP cover gaskets and additional intake hardware. The COP covers used to have a metal plate on them as well from ford that I would like to replace with something custom, any suggestions?
I wrapped my headers in black heat wrap and will be doing the rest of my exhaust the same. I'm also try new plugs this year, picked up some NGK BR6EF's. This is where I left off today.
So I decided my overall theme of my engine bay will be black, silver, and white. Before I had a mix of everything so I wanted to tone it down and go for an overall clean look. My fuel rails, the red areomotive set, was my first victim. They come with a red anodized coating which had to go, I thought they would look good in a natural aluminum finish. I needed to remove the red and I didnt want sand anywhere near them, so I chose to chemically remove the coating with sodium hydroxide (lye).
The old setup
I found a cheap HDPE container at home goods that was the perfect size for the rails. I ordered a pound of granulated lye off amazon and mixed it with 180* water in the container. I slowly placed the rails in the mixture and BAM! SCIENCE BITCH. If you do this at home, do it outside. The reaction creates hydrogen gas which is extremely flammable, you can kind of see it in the picture.
Installed on the fleshly powder coated intake with the ID1300's.
Started placing covers and timing equipment back on the block. I chose to do a moroso windage tray this time around and I used the double gasket method for install, hoping for no leaks. I had nothing but trouble with my canton. The oil pickup had some goofy plate hanging off the side of it that was cut off and ground down flat with the tube.
A friend talked me into the MMR billet valve cover hardware, it was super expensive but they look fantastic. I used black oxide fasteners. Too bad no one makes anything black that doesnt rust easily.
I chose to sandblast my factory dampener and rattle can it flat black. I also opted to use black oxide fasteners on the intake and upper alternator. I really want this to look sharp when its finished. As of now I'm trying to chase down COP cover gaskets and additional intake hardware. The COP covers used to have a metal plate on them as well from ford that I would like to replace with something custom, any suggestions?
I wrapped my headers in black heat wrap and will be doing the rest of my exhaust the same. I'm also try new plugs this year, picked up some NGK BR6EF's. This is where I left off today.
Any update on this?
got the rest of my hotside re-wrapped
i decided that i was going to eliminate the crappy looking brake line mess where the abs pump used to be. i dont have a before picture but here you can see i took all the lines off the block and labeled them.
mounted the abs delete block from pbr machining underneath my frame rail. drilled two holes in the block and drilled/tapped the frame rail to mount it.
rebent the lines, cut the, and re-flared them. i used a snap-on metric bubble flare tool, we had an issue with the line slipping in the tool, but eventually got everything done. hoping for no leaks! finished product.
scott rod fab panels installed. painted white.
hole cut for the charge pipe and i used some u-shaped weather trim to finish the hole.
exercise in shitting bricks again. hoisting the motor back into the engine bay.
i think i may have mentioned this before, but one of my main objectives with the second time around is cleaning up the engine bay and removing wiring. here is the engine with the wiring harness installed. i moved everything into the fenders, extended some wires, and hid what i could.
i decided that i was going to eliminate the crappy looking brake line mess where the abs pump used to be. i dont have a before picture but here you can see i took all the lines off the block and labeled them.
mounted the abs delete block from pbr machining underneath my frame rail. drilled two holes in the block and drilled/tapped the frame rail to mount it.
rebent the lines, cut the, and re-flared them. i used a snap-on metric bubble flare tool, we had an issue with the line slipping in the tool, but eventually got everything done. hoping for no leaks! finished product.
scott rod fab panels installed. painted white.
hole cut for the charge pipe and i used some u-shaped weather trim to finish the hole.
exercise in shitting bricks again. hoisting the motor back into the engine bay.
i think i may have mentioned this before, but one of my main objectives with the second time around is cleaning up the engine bay and removing wiring. here is the engine with the wiring harness installed. i moved everything into the fenders, extended some wires, and hid what i could.
Lookin good!
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