That sucks. It’s the the biggest reason I have never been a fan of multiple piece wheels on a street car.
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CCW Leaking from seal (help)
- Thread starter Cody M
- Start date
Yeah I’m over these let me get a set of whistlers and call it a day lmao
I know very little about their construction, but wouldn’t you think that CCW would perform a pressurized leak check on every wheel prior to shipment?
I’ve successfully resealed CCW’s on my old cobra. I see you put the wheel back together hand tight. Does that mean you did not put silicone on the mating surface? You should be putting silicone around each bolt hole as well as the entire mating surface. Then when you get the bolts torqued down you need to run your finger around the now squished silicone to clean it up and also try to remove any air bubbles.
I don’t see how they would be able to do that on wheels that don’t come mounted on tires already.
It’d be quite simple. You don’t need a tire.
Off the top of my head, design a reusable bladder that seals the circumference of the wheel, simulating the area covered by the tire. Pressurize it to a predetermined pass/fail psi & time parameters setup by design, engineering, and quality.
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For the cost of them they should not leak, you’re paying top dollar for a quality product. You should get a product that works as advertised.
I did not put silicon around the face, when I took the wheel apart there was no silicone around the face either from the factory. I know this sounds silly but I was thinking for my last shot, I’d put silicon or some sort of RTV on the Nut and tighten it down and then put a little around the outside of the nut as well and letting it dry. If the place where it’s coming out from is covered with a seleant I’d assume it would stop the air from escaping. I just really don’t want to send the wheel back and risk it possibly coming back to me and still leaking
And also I can still take the face off and put silicone around each hole
I bet your issue is there wasn’t enough silicone. Put some in the same pattern as you can see in my professional drawing. As I stated before, once you squish the 2 pieces together the silicone will squeeze out of the sides and you just have to run a finger around the wheel to smooth/seal it up. And you smooth it out with your finger after you torque it down. You have to do this quickly before the silicone dries so make sure you have everything organized so you can hammer it out.
Man you're Brave.
Okay I’ll do that tomorrow, did you do a star pattern then just do the rest in any order? And it’s 32 foot pounds for the spec correct?
I don’t remember the spec off the top of my head. And I do remember doing a star pattern
Lol just don’t want to send wheel back, I have to get hood and fender blended this week, then after that cars getting tuned and then getting it paint corrected. I don’t have time for the car to be immobile rn
Okay well thank you, I’ll try that tomorrow, let it dry for a day then put some air in it
No problem. Remember to check for air bubbles in the silicone before putting a tire on. If there’s a bubble the air will blow right through it. It happened to me my first go around.
Well I planned on taking the face off with the tire still on, hoping just sealing up the face will fix it
Ahhh.. give it a shot. But, mostly likely tire has to come off
are you saying I should just take the seal off and and try re sealing the whole wheel? And also how do you get air out of the silicone?
I don’t know what the exact state of your wheel is in, but if it were me I would break it down til it looks like the picture I posted. Split the barrel and clean off any and all silicone and reseal it. The silicone goes in between the 2 halves of the barrel. There should be no silicone touching the face of the wheel.
You can try and pop the air bubbles with a razor blade while the silicone is still wet. If it hardens then you need to start over. The process is a real pain in the dick.
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