That sucks. It’s the the biggest reason I have never been a fan of multiple piece wheels on a street car.
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Yeah I’m over these let me get a set of whistlers and call it a day lmaoThat sucks. It’s the the biggest reason I have never been a fan of multiple wheels on a street car.
I’ve successfully resealed CCW’s on my old cobra. I see you put the wheel back together hand tight. Does that mean you did not put silicone on the mating surface? You should be putting silicone around each bolt hole as well as the entire mating surface. Then when you get the bolts torqued down you need to run your finger around the now squished silicone to clean it up and also try to remove any air bubbles.So I let it cure for 3 days, got it mounted today and it’s leaking behind the bolts again. F This wheel, just going to send it back to CCW. I can’t understand how airs getting passed a brand new seal along with the loctite nuts torqued to 32lbs
I don’t see how they would be able to do that on wheels that don’t come mounted on tires already.I know very little about their construction, but wouldn’t you think that CCW would perform a pressurized leak check on every wheel prior to shipment?
I don’t see how they would be able to do that on wheels that don’t come mounted on tires already.
I did not put silicon around the face, when I took the wheel apart there was no silicone around the face either from the factory. I know this sounds silly but I was thinking for my last shot, I’d put silicon or some sort of RTV on the Nut and tighten it down and then put a little around the outside of the nut as well and letting it dry. If the place where it’s coming out from is covered with a seleant I’d assume it would stop the air from escaping. I just really don’t want to send the wheel back and risk it possibly coming back to me and still leakingI’ve successfully resealed CCW’s on my old cobra. I see you put the wheel back together hand tight. Does that mean you did not put silicone on the mating surface? You should be putting silicone around each bolt hole as well as the entire mating surface. Then when you get the bolts torqued down you need to run your finger around the now squished silicone to clean it up and also try to remove any air bubbles.
And also I can still take the face off and put silicone around each holeI did not put silicon around the face, when I took the wheel apart there was no silicone around the face either from the factory. I know this sounds silly but I was thinking for my last shot, I’d put silicon or some sort of RTV on the Nut and tighten it down and then put a little around the outside of the nut as well and letting it dry. If the place where it’s coming out from is covered with a seleant I’d assume it would stop the air from escaping. I just really don’t want to send the wheel back and risk it possibly coming back to me and still leaking
And also I can still take the face off and put silicone around each hole
Man you're Brave.Yes I bought the Dow thankfully. Finally got all the old silicone off, I had to use a wire brush on a gun, other wise that crap was almost impossible to get off. Cleaned everything, put wheel back together hand tight, going to seal now then torque after, thanks for the input!
Okay I’ll do that tomorrow, did you do a star pattern then just do the rest in any order? And it’s 32 foot pounds for the spec correct?View attachment 1834109
I bet your issue is there wasn’t enough silicone. Put some in the same pattern as you can see in my professional drawing. As I stated before, once you squish the 2 pieces together the silicone will squeeze out of the sides and you just have to run a finger around the wheel to smooth/seal it up. And you smooth it out with your finger after you torque it down. You have to do this quickly before the silicone dries so make sure you have everything organized so you can hammer it out.
I don’t remember the spec off the top of my head. And I do remember doing a star patternOkay I’ll do that tomorrow, did you do a star pattern then just do the rest in any order? And it’s 32 foot pounds for the spec correct?
Lol just don’t want to send wheel back, I have to get hood and fender blended this week, then after that cars getting tuned and then getting it paint corrected. I don’t have time for the car to be immobile rnMan you're Brave.
Okay well thank you, I’ll try that tomorrow, let it dry for a day then put some air in itI don’t remember the spec off the top of my head. And I do remember doing a star pattern
No problem. Remember to check for air bubbles in the silicone before putting a tire on. If there’s a bubble the air will blow right through it. It happened to me my first go around.Okay well thank you, I’ll try that tomorrow, let it dry for a day then put some air in it
Well I planned on taking the face off with the tire still on, hoping just sealing up the face will fix itNo problem. Remember to check for air bubbles in the silicone before putting a tire on. If there’s a bubble the air will blow right through it. It happened to me my first go around.
Ahhh.. give it a shot. But, mostly likely tire has to come offWell I planned on taking the face off with the tire still on, hoping just sealing up the face will fix it
are you saying I should just take the seal off and and try re sealing the whole wheel? And also how do you get air out of the silicone?Ahhh.. give it a shot. But, mostly likely tire has to come off
I don’t know what the exact state of your wheel is in, but if it were me I would break it down til it looks like the picture I posted. Split the barrel and clean off any and all silicone and reseal it. The silicone goes in between the 2 halves of the barrel. There should be no silicone touching the face of the wheel.are you saying I should just take the seal off and and try re sealing the whole wheel? And also how do you get air out of the silicone?