yeah the previous owner on here meant it to be conservative which I'm fine with so I guess I can't complain I was just curious to what that P1SC could do.
Can my Procharger do more?
- Thread starter MDK210
- Start date
As one of you pointed out, the D1SC is a better unit, with steeper internal gearing and an upgraded impeller. Thereby, making more boost more efficiently than a P1 without having to go to a smaller pulley.
But the biggest limitation with the P1 (and even the D1) is with the belt setup. They run off the factory 6 rib serpentine belt. This creates inconsistent boost during heavy fluctuations in RPM, and increases the risk of throwing belts.
I've had my P1SC making upwards of 15-16 PSI. However, I've made 510RWHP on only 10PSI with a powerpipe and exhaust.
The P1SC will support upwards of 500 HP if the motor is tuned correctly and no bottlenecks are present (powerpipe, good exhaust, good tune, etc). You can easily increase this by going with an 8-RIB conversion (which should be done regardless).
The D1 is an impressive little upgrade. My friend Brian with a Red 01 cobra (who resides on these boards) installed a D1 head unit on a nearly identical engine combination as mine made 569 WHP on 12LBS of boost (when I made 510 on 10LBS of boost). Both engines had stock internals at the time.
While I'm happy with my P1 combination because I have stock aviator internals with 10.5:1 compression, and don't plan on pushing any more boost. Since you already have the P1 head unit, there are a few things you can do before you get something else.
1: Power Pipe (this will give you a few extra LBS of booost)
2. Blower-Brace (reduces belt slip and flex)
3. 8-Rib Conversion (or even a dedicated conversion). Since the blower case is the same size as the larger D1 or F1, you can upgrade the bracketry now and see how much of an improvement you get. There was a neat article in 5.0 mustang about a dedicated blower belt drive that significantly increased horsepower with the same blower and pulley sizes.
4. Once you have addressed the aforementioned supporting issues, only then would I upgrade the head unit. You could upgrade the impeller to D1 status for $1200, but you might as well just go balls to the wall with an F1 if you have the supporting mods.
Homer
But the biggest limitation with the P1 (and even the D1) is with the belt setup. They run off the factory 6 rib serpentine belt. This creates inconsistent boost during heavy fluctuations in RPM, and increases the risk of throwing belts.
I've had my P1SC making upwards of 15-16 PSI. However, I've made 510RWHP on only 10PSI with a powerpipe and exhaust.
The P1SC will support upwards of 500 HP if the motor is tuned correctly and no bottlenecks are present (powerpipe, good exhaust, good tune, etc). You can easily increase this by going with an 8-RIB conversion (which should be done regardless).
The D1 is an impressive little upgrade. My friend Brian with a Red 01 cobra (who resides on these boards) installed a D1 head unit on a nearly identical engine combination as mine made 569 WHP on 12LBS of boost (when I made 510 on 10LBS of boost). Both engines had stock internals at the time.
While I'm happy with my P1 combination because I have stock aviator internals with 10.5:1 compression, and don't plan on pushing any more boost. Since you already have the P1 head unit, there are a few things you can do before you get something else.
1: Power Pipe (this will give you a few extra LBS of booost)
2. Blower-Brace (reduces belt slip and flex)
3. 8-Rib Conversion (or even a dedicated conversion). Since the blower case is the same size as the larger D1 or F1, you can upgrade the bracketry now and see how much of an improvement you get. There was a neat article in 5.0 mustang about a dedicated blower belt drive that significantly increased horsepower with the same blower and pulley sizes.
4. Once you have addressed the aforementioned supporting issues, only then would I upgrade the head unit. You could upgrade the impeller to D1 status for $1200, but you might as well just go balls to the wall with an F1 if you have the supporting mods.
Homer
^^^House of Boost make a dedicated drive for 2 valves and has a 4 valve kit on the way. I keep hearing and reading good things about their 2 valve drive so I'm eager to see the 4 valve.
Very neat!! I think that may be the solution before making any other drastic upgrades. That way, you can extract every bit of capability from the P1SC first.
If you upgrade to a more capable blower first, you'll still have the same issues limiting the potential of the new blower.
In the article in "5.0 Mustang", the increase in boost and power from upgrading to a more capable drive system was so drastic that they had to retune the car. And they didn't even change the pulley diameters to run more boost.
Homer
If you upgrade to a more capable blower first, you'll still have the same issues limiting the potential of the new blower.
In the article in "5.0 Mustang", the increase in boost and power from upgrading to a more capable drive system was so drastic that they had to retune the car. And they didn't even change the pulley diameters to run more boost.
Homer
no it doesn't. the p1sc and the d1sc have the same step up ratio.
I remeber reading that article. It was the Steeda dedicated drive for a Whipple on a 3v. I imagine similar results would be found in a dedicated drive for a centri.
+1. Both D1SC and P1SC have the 4.10 ratio IIRC. The F1 has a more agressive ratio.
I'm running a D1SC with a 3.9 pulley on a Marauder. Stock internals. 12psi. 12 deg timing. 425 whp. Could easily be near 500 whp with timing advance and lean the a/f. I have all the supporting mods to make the power except forged internals:shrug:
^^^Still seems a little low to me. The Marauder has the same engine as the Mach 1 correct? I would think you would be at 500 rwhp.
I have a very similar setup, and I'm making right around 425 whp also. I don't think it's wise to push it with the timing on the aviator/marauder/mach longblocks, being that they have 10.5:1 compression. But this setup has worked perfect for over 50,000 miles. Good luck with your combo.
Homer
1. Where can I get a power pipe and where exactly would it go?
2. The guy did tell me the belt tensioner had to be replaced a couple of times but it's held up the last few yrs. Is that what a blower brace would help with.
^^^Anderson Ford Motorsports makes a power pipe. It replaces the pipe going into the inlet of the supercharger where the impellar is. But you could easily make one yourself for less money.
As for the blower brace if Im not mistaken, helps keep the blower more firm and reduces the amount of flex in the blower bracket thus reducing belt slip.
As for the blower brace if Im not mistaken, helps keep the blower more firm and reduces the amount of flex in the blower bracket thus reducing belt slip.
I got both my power pipe and blower brace from a company called "Morpheus Performance" that went out of business about 5 years ago.
The blower brace is just a little bracket that bolts from the top of the procharger bracket to the alternator. Not sure just how much good it does, I still have belt issues.
The blower brace is just a little bracket that bolts from the top of the procharger bracket to the alternator. Not sure just how much good it does, I still have belt issues.
Thats why I'm excited to see the House of Boost dedicated drive for Procharged dohc's. I'll definately get one when funds allow.
hey guys, he bought my car.
it has an anderson powerpipe.
When lund tuned the car, the conversion numbers for a dynojet were right around 500rwhp.
AS the car sits, the ONLY thing you can do for more power is up the timing a few degrees, you can do that with the XCAL as Jon allowed me to do that with the tune. I never chose to do that.
Remember when we talked though, your limiting factor right now is your fuel system, it won't support more boost as it sits. Your fine right now, and your fine if you up the timing, but more boost = more fuel, and right now above 6000rpm's, you'll risk running lean.
it has an anderson powerpipe.
When lund tuned the car, the conversion numbers for a dynojet were right around 500rwhp.
AS the car sits, the ONLY thing you can do for more power is up the timing a few degrees, you can do that with the XCAL as Jon allowed me to do that with the tune. I never chose to do that.
Remember when we talked though, your limiting factor right now is your fuel system, it won't support more boost as it sits. Your fine right now, and your fine if you up the timing, but more boost = more fuel, and right now above 6000rpm's, you'll risk running lean.
I see that you have 42LB injectors and a KB boost a pump. What kind of fuel pump do you have? Is it a stock pump?
Have you seen that triple pump fuel hat that someone makes? It'll hold three Walbro 255LPH pumps!
Homer
Have you seen that triple pump fuel hat that someone makes? It'll hold three Walbro 255LPH pumps!
Homer
car has a focus pump
welcome back wojo! I did assume there was a power pipe but the car is still getting painted so I couldn't check. I knew about the fuel pump cause my truck will need a dual setup if I port the blower and raise the boost. I wouldn't 3 pump the cobra since 2 should be plenty if anything but timing was upgraded. is it stock compression wojo?
I give a big +1 on upgrading the blower to a D-1SC. Lund tuned my car with about 9 lbs on the stock motor and on the mustang dyno it was laying down high 400's. Too bad the motor didn't last too long like that lol. You can expect about 20-30 more hp on a dynojet anyway so I would say with the P-1SC you are right around where you should be. If you are looking for more though, definitely look into a D-1SC.
KB says a focus pump is not recommended with their BAP.
http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/BAPsvtFocus_kens.pdf
Users who are viewing this thread
