Inline thermostat
Fabbed a new crossover with two inlets/one outlet
Custom 2.5" core radiator with standard cap (no expansion tank)
Can I run an inline thermostat in upper hose????????
- Thread starter cobra196
- Start date
Inline thermostat
Fabbed a new crossover with two inlets/one outlet
Custom 2.5" core radiator with standard cap (no expansion tank)
The only time a bypass is not needed is when the engine never shuts off and cools down so that the thermostat NEVER CLOSES.
Lets be careful here with this cooling system re-engineering.
Your water pump never stops pumping when the engine is running, when the T-stat is cold and closed the coolant is supposed to circulate within the engine, NOT JUST SIT IN ONE SPOT. It does this through the bypass.
Use an upper hose style stat that has a bypass made into it and then just adapt the bypass hose to connect to the cooling inlet at the lower hose somewhere.
I used the "Evans Cooling Mod" stat(Behr), which has a built in bypass, but retained my OE oil cooler/oil filter hsng/thermostat(empty) hsng and sent the bypass back to it's original location.
But I don't have a reverse header in the way.
The bypass has to go to the lower hose cooling system inlet, HOW YOU DECIDE TO DO THAT IS UP TO YOU.
If you eliminate the bypass, when the Tstat is closed, the coolant has no where to go, hydraulic pressure builds up and the first time you rev it a little a hose is going to either BLOW OFF or BURST.
Any questions?
I am going to remove this Behr t-stat very soon and put the stock stuff back functional again but I am going to use the Reische 170 t-stat instead of drilled stocker I used to use.
When using the stock t-stat housing and t-stat, the bypass comes from the crossover tube and down to the block off plate area of the t-stat housing, if you have the right t-stat the bypass blocks off when the t-stat opens.
Though there is a period of time where they are both open near the end of the warm up period.
Jimmysidecarr,
I fully see where you are going with your post.
I just have a few questions.
1: Does every 79+ Mustang have a bypass? If not, why not?
2: Can't you just drill a few holes in the upper t-stat....that way you will have circulation? I would imagine the t-stat would stay open most of the time anyways, but if there are hole sin the t-stat...wouldnt that prevent the pressure build up?
3: So you are saying, "T" off of the upper hose, PRE t-stat.....and "T" that into the lower hose?
4: I will admit, I do not know how these systems work very well. I was under the impression the coolant continuously circulated via water pump.....but didnt "cool" off until the t-stat opened. Guess I was wrong.
Thanks for your input. Please answer those.
I fully see where you are going with your post.
I just have a few questions.
1: Does every 79+ Mustang have a bypass? If not, why not?
2: Can't you just drill a few holes in the upper t-stat....that way you will have circulation? I would imagine the t-stat would stay open most of the time anyways, but if there are hole sin the t-stat...wouldnt that prevent the pressure build up?
3: So you are saying, "T" off of the upper hose, PRE t-stat.....and "T" that into the lower hose?
4: I will admit, I do not know how these systems work very well. I was under the impression the coolant continuously circulated via water pump.....but didnt "cool" off until the t-stat opened. Guess I was wrong.
Thanks for your input. Please answer those.
Well, I picked up the GT lower hose today.
Ths is nice and simple. Installing the GT lower rad hose....an inline Mezeire T-Stat housing, and drilling some holes in the t-stat.
Should work perfect.
I have a 190 deg t-stat in the car now, and the coolant comes out of the engine at about 210 on average.
I am going to stick with a 190 stat, so the actual engine/coolant temp shouldnt ever get much over 190. THATS HOW IT SHOULD BE.
Ths is nice and simple. Installing the GT lower rad hose....an inline Mezeire T-Stat housing, and drilling some holes in the t-stat.
Should work perfect.
I have a 190 deg t-stat in the car now, and the coolant comes out of the engine at about 210 on average.
I am going to stick with a 190 stat, so the actual engine/coolant temp shouldnt ever get much over 190. THATS HOW IT SHOULD BE.
Ideally you want to "T" into the upper hose right at the stat and just "T" into the lower hose anywhere. I am not familiar with it, but the stat housing Jimmysidecar shows looks ideal. With any luck it uses a stat that blocks the bypass when the stat opens.
Well that pretty much defeats the purpose of doing anything to the system IMO.
I think my plan is a good one, I'll stick to it. As long as there are holes in the t-stat, I don't see there being an issue. My car is not a daily driver, so I have all the time in the world to do this mod.
I think my plan is a good one, I'll stick to it. As long as there are holes in the t-stat, I don't see there being an issue. My car is not a daily driver, so I have all the time in the world to do this mod.
The stock Modular Cobra t-stats block the bypass when they open, as does the GT500 upper style and the Behr.... they are kind of an all in one deal and work nice as long as you don't buy a junk stat with the wrong diameter block off plate or one that the block off does not close all the way for what ever reason.
I am trying to think of where a bypass is on 96-04 2V Mustangs that have the t-stat in the intake manifold. (Similar to relocating the t-stat to upper hose on 4V's)
The GT lower hose I picked up the other day.....has NO other line going to it, except the line to the expansion tank, which the 4V has a separate hose for that as well...
If there was a bypass, wouldnt the lower hose have to feature some sort of other hose?
The GT lower hose I picked up the other day.....has NO other line going to it, except the line to the expansion tank, which the 4V has a separate hose for that as well...
If there was a bypass, wouldnt the lower hose have to feature some sort of other hose?
not to be rude- but had the OP researched- he would realize that there is a 30+ page thread on this exact subject on modularfords.com in the 03/04 cobra section
Different animal. The 2v has the stat in the upper coolant crossover, all that needs to be done is circulate some coolant thru the motor and past it. The heater hose circuit accomplishes this.
We have the same heater hose circuit but when the stat is in the upper hose its out of circulation (unless you drill holes).
Opening up the tstat with slots or holes will have the same effect as a bypass. Don't get me wrong, it's not ideal and if I had seen the thermostat housing you have pictured before I built my system, I may have gone that way. However, there are plenty of cars running modified routing with no ill effects.
I make those. PM me if you're interested... :beer:
Not to bring this back and beat a dead horse but I have a question. If you want continuous flow what is the point of running a thermostat anyways. This stuff is kind of confusing me. I mean were talking about drilling holes in the stat to continue flow through the engine, if that be the case why not just take the stat out? Yes it would make the motor warm up slower but who cares, I only drive my car when it's nice out anyway and with the turbo it will warm up just fine I'm sure. Can someone explain why you can't just delete the thermostat all together and then jut run a vent as said before from that cap to vent air?
A stat would regulate temp regardless of your cooling system efficiency and ambient air temp.
IMHO with lots of aluminum bits with high thermal expansion, I'd want to keep my motor a nice and constant temp all the time.
IMHO with lots of aluminum bits with high thermal expansion, I'd want to keep my motor a nice and constant temp all the time.
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