Swap, day 01:
Bye Bye, V6
- Thread starter jsimmonstx
- Start date
Sweet!
Wow, Look at all the room you have to work with! That motor looks tiny in there. Will you be keeping the A/C or deleting it?
forgive the stupid question, but how does this work with emissions testing? wont be OBD2 compliant anymore, or will it?
Yeah - "cavernous" would be a great description. I'm keeping the A/C (but I have to use a Fox Mustang compressor and brackets). One of these days, I'll get the fancy March bracket kit for $1600 (comes with a polished A/C compressor and alternator).
What do you plan on using the car for?
Fun...probably. 
It'll be really cool to make timing, jet, and air bleed changes yourself.
It'll be really cool to make timing, jet, and air bleed changes yourself.
Fun...probably.
It'll be really cool to make timing, jet, and air bleed changes yourself.
Fun is sole purpose. Mostly street driven, and some track days at the local road course.
i've owned several carb'd cars before (including a couple of multi-carb set ups )- no big deal.
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I kept skipping over this thread because the title led me to believe some guy traded a v6 for a GT. NOPE!! Awesome build, can't wait to see some more progress!
Okay, pics from day 02:
Gas pedal - had convert to a throttle cable system, so I started out with a Fox Mustang gas pedal. The holes that mount the Fox pedal are exactly the same as the left side S197 holes.
However, when we stuck the pedal on the studs, we found that the pedal is too high and too far to the left, so we fabricated an adapter plate that utilized the factory hole locations, and allowed us to position the Fox pedal in a more favorable location.
Here it is mounted in the car, along with the brake/clutch pedal setup we also had to install.
After we finished the pedal, we were able to determine where to drill the holes for the Fox (manual transmission) throttle cable.
Next, we tried installing the pre-2010 master cylinder reservoir (for the hydraulic clutch). It turns out that the reservoir is too freakin' wide, and prevents the use of the vacuum fitting on the brake booster. I had to order a new reservoir from Ford, but here's a pic with an arrow pointing to where the vacuum fitting should be.
Finally, we mounted the crank trigger wheel (from a late model 302 Bronco) and pulley, and attached the alternator bracket and two of the three a/c brackets. I got the wrong front bracket and had to order one from AM for a 351w swap. Arrgg. Here's a pic of the trigger wheel mounted:
We had issues getting the transmission in the car, so there are no more pictures from what turned out to be a very long day.
I'll be spending the next couple of days (while the shop is closed) stripping the protective wrap from the wiring harness so we can cut away the wiring we don't need.
Gas pedal - had convert to a throttle cable system, so I started out with a Fox Mustang gas pedal. The holes that mount the Fox pedal are exactly the same as the left side S197 holes.
However, when we stuck the pedal on the studs, we found that the pedal is too high and too far to the left, so we fabricated an adapter plate that utilized the factory hole locations, and allowed us to position the Fox pedal in a more favorable location.
Here it is mounted in the car, along with the brake/clutch pedal setup we also had to install.
After we finished the pedal, we were able to determine where to drill the holes for the Fox (manual transmission) throttle cable.
Next, we tried installing the pre-2010 master cylinder reservoir (for the hydraulic clutch). It turns out that the reservoir is too freakin' wide, and prevents the use of the vacuum fitting on the brake booster. I had to order a new reservoir from Ford, but here's a pic with an arrow pointing to where the vacuum fitting should be.
Finally, we mounted the crank trigger wheel (from a late model 302 Bronco) and pulley, and attached the alternator bracket and two of the three a/c brackets. I got the wrong front bracket and had to order one from AM for a 351w swap. Arrgg. Here's a pic of the trigger wheel mounted:
We had issues getting the transmission in the car, so there are no more pictures from what turned out to be a very long day.
I'll be spending the next couple of days (while the shop is closed) stripping the protective wrap from the wiring harness so we can cut away the wiring we don't need.
Had to shave 5/16 inch off the transmission spacer, install three 0.187 throwout bearing spacers, and drill new holes in the transmission cross member, but we finally got the transmission in the car for good, and measured for the driveshaft.
Today, we're going to modify the passenger side header so it clears the bellhousing (it just barely touches when it's bolted up). Once that's resolved, we can weld the v-band collar to the collector and send the headers out for ceramic coating.
Once that's done, I think we're going to tackle the fuel system changes.
Today, we're going to modify the passenger side header so it clears the bellhousing (it just barely touches when it's bolted up). Once that's resolved, we can weld the v-band collar to the collector and send the headers out for ceramic coating.
Once that's done, I think we're going to tackle the fuel system changes.
Subscribing
Not much to report today. Buttoned up the transmission, re-installed the driver's seat, and found that the passenger side header does in fact clear the bell housing.
When we installed the center console panel, we found that the shifter base rubs the driver's side of the trim panel when we try to go into first. I think we're going to grind down a raised boss on the base because it's just barely hitting.
Transmission crossmember - we had to drill a whole set of new mounting holes - understandable if you consider that the trans kit is designed to go behind a mod motor instead of a Windsor.
The transmission, installed.
The throwout bearing (from Exedy) installed. You can see the spacers behind it.
The undercarriage.
The passenger-side header clears!
Today, we're going to start on the exhaust system, and hopefully, the fuel return line.
When we installed the center console panel, we found that the shifter base rubs the driver's side of the trim panel when we try to go into first. I think we're going to grind down a raised boss on the base because it's just barely hitting.
Transmission crossmember - we had to drill a whole set of new mounting holes - understandable if you consider that the trans kit is designed to go behind a mod motor instead of a Windsor.
The transmission, installed.
The throwout bearing (from Exedy) installed. You can see the spacers behind it.
The undercarriage.
The passenger-side header clears!
Today, we're going to start on the exhaust system, and hopefully, the fuel return line.
Subed
make sure you post up some sound clips when this thing gets running
Me too, lol. Great build OP. You should leave the v6 badges.
I fixed the title - I hope it doesn't mess up anyone's sub...
I don't have any V6 badges. Right now, it's wearing the new style PBF badges, but I got plished stainless "427" badges to replace them with. There's no way this is gonna be a sleeper with the sound it's gonna make.
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This is a pretty bad ass swap. You are going to have people breaking their necks trying to figure out what motor the car has in it when you drive it. Hard to beat the sound of a cammed Ford pushrod motor. Can't wait for vids!
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