Buying a 2004 cobra.. need help
- Thread starter tzr250rg
- Start date
Sounds like the drivetrain exploded from the flywheel back. Have you compression tested the engine?
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Hard to believe he did that on the street on a stock blower\pulley. Maybe if he did a 6k clutch dump and there was insane wheelhop and he just bounced it off the limiter and didn't let off. The thing is, that has nothing to do with actually fixing the "cobra clunk", that's just him having shit he broke repaired back to OEM - although he did at least have the Ford Racing diff cover put on, so better than OEM for that part.
The "cobra clunk" is most often fixed by adding the larger MM IRS bolts, poly or solid rear diff mount bushing and sometimes re-enforcing the IRS mounts. There are also aftermarket front diff supports, but on the 03/04 there is one stock and it's debatable if the beefier aftermarket one is really needed. FTBR everything in the IRS also helps, but that's more about getting rid of wheel hop and general swaying under hard driving.
The "cobra clunk" is most often fixed by adding the larger MM IRS bolts, poly or solid rear diff mount bushing and sometimes re-enforcing the IRS mounts. There are also aftermarket front diff supports, but on the 03/04 there is one stock and it's debatable if the beefier aftermarket one is really needed. FTBR everything in the IRS also helps, but that's more about getting rid of wheel hop and general swaying under hard driving.
I'd be worried about everything.....from engine to rear end...sounds like that car did a whole bunch of 1/4 mle racing. Keep looking might be your best bet
How does the car drive now?
Reason I ask is my car has a hole in the center console where I'm sure a nitrous switch was wired in....its a 15 year old mustang, its going to be modified. Who cares - my car makes 600+ every day, and drives just fine.
Reason I ask is my car has a hole in the center console where I'm sure a nitrous switch was wired in....its a 15 year old mustang, its going to be modified. Who cares - my car makes 600+ every day, and drives just fine.
I mean my car is by no means babied but it runs like a clock and makes over 700hp. As long as it was repaired properly and the engine is in good condition it might not be a bad buy. Get it compression tested and even have a cylinder leak down test performed. Spending a few hundred bucks upfront might save you thousands in the back.
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He suddenly agreed to come down 4k? If he will really let you get it compression and leakdown tested and it passes, I would say getting it for 15.5k is a hell of a deal.
If compression test checks out I wouldn't hesitate a second on paying 15.5k for that. Most of these cars seem to have some form of abuse in their past. If the motor is good and overall appearance is good, at that mileage you're getting a pretty good deal.
Snag it up bud
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