Built bottom end...on a budget

KP_510

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Starting to look into buying a forged short block for my 13GT. I don't really want to go over 5k budget so of course I won't be buying a sleeved block just need something that can handle about 1000HP, end goals for the car is 850-900HP running E85 with Vortech JT Trim blower.

I've done a search on the site and talked to one of the builders whose prices were supposed to be really competitive but the few times I've talked to him it seems as if his prices must've went up or something as he's out of my budget. Only companies I'm currently seeing in my budget
are MMR or Modular Head Shop.

Are there any other suggestions or companies I should be looking at? Thanks for any help
 

wolfman311

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Starting to look into buying a forged short block for my 13GT. I don't really want to go over 5k budget so of course I won't be buying a sleeved block just need something that can handle about 1000HP, end goals for the car is 850-900HP running E85 with Vortech JT Trim blower.

I've done a search on the site and talked to one of the builders whose prices were supposed to be really competitive but the few times I've talked to him it seems as if his prices must've went up or something as he's out of my budget. Only companies I'm currently seeing in my budget
are MMR or Modular Head Shop.

Are there any other suggestions or companies I should be looking at? Thanks for any help

Something to keep in mind, for those HP goals you want you will want a sleeved block. I believe the stock block is good to about 800hp without sleeves. I'm sure an engine builder can chime in and correct me if i'm wrong.
 

KP_510

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RusWolf

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5k with labor of installing or with no labor?

I searched and it seems that it's impossible number to meet including all labor to remove, swap heads and install back in the car.
 

KP_510

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5k with labor of installing or with no labor?

I searched and it seems that it's impossible number to meet including all labor to remove, swap heads and install back in the car.

I can over 5k with install and everything but Blazer707 will be doing the install so I'm not too worried about that portion hes pretty reasonable on pricing :)
 
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SHIFTYBUSINESS

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I'm having Tim Eichhorn at MPR build me a non sleeved short block for $5400. Tim is one of the best modular builders out there. Most places are right around $5000 for the same thing. MMR is a little cheaper but they have to many bad reviews and it scared me off and after talking with Tim I felt good about going with MPR. The Don Wood Aluminator short block was the cheapest one that I found when I was looking at those, it was really tempting.
 
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cprboss

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There's a guy on Facebook who sells supports that slide in the water jackets and get screwed in. Know of a few cars over 1k wheel with these. This, plus good rods and pistons, and someone to put it together should cost less than the options above.
 

vortecd

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I have been looking around at this also. The Aluminator is looking pretty good for the price
 

20lbbooster

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I'm running basically the exact same setup you're talking about running. I'm on a "budget" built motor that consists of Weisco pistons, Manley rods and stock sleeves with the billet water jacket supports installed. I'm on a billet JT and 3.15 pulley with a 20% overdrive ati. I don't have Hp/TQ numbers to share
 

Scott8583

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Cheapest way is to probably just have your current rods, pistons, and oil pump gears upgraded... That's what I did. I'm making 800whp
 

justinsstang

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^ stuff is getting left out... If you're a blower car you're going to need crank sprocket in addition to the rest. You're also going to want to upgrade the rod bolts and head studs to ARP. Fresh gaskets, and fluids.
 

RR5.0

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Scott8583,

What piston and rod package did you go with? Also, did you have someone assemble the motor for you or did you do it yourself?

So basically I would need rods, pistons, crank sprocket, oil pump gears, new bearings, rod bolts, head studs, all new gaskets, and I could ride safely on 800-850whp?
 

justinsstang

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Idk anything about doing bearings, not something I've considered personally and unsure how they hold up/when you need to replace them. Hopefully someone can shed some light.

As far as being safe on 850whp, its still not safe because of the water jacket weak points. Probably ought to do the supports if you aren't going to sleeve it. Then and only then should you really feel "safe" with that sort of power.

Looks like you can get everything you need minus gaskets, fluids, water jacket supports, and bearings (if they even need replaced, know nothing about them) from MMR (includes Manley rods, Manley pistons, total seal AP steel rings, opg, crank sprocket, arp rod bolts & head studs) for less than $2200.

The rest you would have to source elsewhere but that's the bulk of it.

Also you're going to have to hone the block at least to ensure a proper seal on the piston rings. Always a good idea to do a minimal bore prior to the hone for a fresh start too. You can pick up the aforementioned rods & pistons with a .005 bore if you want to do a small bore to possibly add to engine life, or you can risk it and skip the bore and keep the standard bore and just get it honed (which I don't think anyone recommends).
 

Scott8583

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I had a local shop do the work. Manley rods (new rods come with bolts) diamond 11.25:1 Pistons (bore & hone are a given) new ford head bolts, stock chains & sprockets. If you have some miles on your car get new bearings & have everything freshened. I re used the stock valve springs because my car had 11000 miles on it. I'm making 800whp and will be shooting for close to 850... My car runs 9.40's @ 146.

I wouldn't run water jacket supports. If you want north of 900whp then spend the money for sleeved cylinders...
 
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