Building block options???

GT500_012308

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I am looking to build my block I have an 11.

Looking to make 850rwhp on 93. Currently have a VMP R will end up running a Gen3

Currently have L&M NSR's and will probably stay with that and not really interested in doing head work. I will be adding a fore return system trying to stay on 93 but have the E85 option if I want to crank up the power.

I was looking at the rebuild kits that JDM sells with the Pistons/Rods bearings ect. Was thinking maybe adding the cobra jet crank if needed.

Kinda wondering if that is safe enough for that power on 93 obviously corn I can run much more.

Thanks in advance.
 

merkyworks

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Main issue is going to be determining if you can use your block as is or if you will have to install sleeves. Also your engine already has a cobra jet crank, just need to have it double keyed and your set.
 

GT500_012308

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Ahhh cool thanks for the info. I’m actually kinda leaning more towards doing a new block I’ve seen a lot of people switch to iron because of the amount of money it saves and when your putting down 1000rwhp who cares about 100lbs


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GT500_012308

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Anyone on here built their blocks? What did you use and what compression did you end up running?


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RBB

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Components in the JDM rebuild kit will easily handle 850 to the tire. The biggest hurdle in making 850hp on 93 octane is the fact that you’re trying to do it on 93 octane. I’ve got a similar setup....JDM built 5.8, SS cams, return fuel system, KB168 and DD149. It’ll be on the dyno some time in the next month and I expect it will be close to 850, maybe not quite that much.
 

GT500_012308

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oh ok. yea thats why I would most likely switch to the Gen3 after building. Im no so concerned with hitting a number just with the mods Id be adding at the time id figure thats what ill be at. I just want to make sure that it can more than handle the power.

What if I was wanted to bump up to say 1000 to the wheels do those kits handle that? Also not sure on what compression I would run. But id obviously be on Corn at that point which I may just end up doing after building anyway.
 

RBB

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oh ok. yea thats why I would most likely switch to the Gen3 after building. Im no so concerned with hitting a number just with the mods Id be adding at the time id figure thats what ill be at. I just want to make sure that it can more than handle the power.

What if I was wanted to bump up to say 1000 to the wheels do those kits handle that? Also not sure on what compression I would run. But id obviously be on Corn at that point which I may just end up doing after building anyway.
I believe the JDM rebuild kit is good for 1200HP. Be sure to do billet OPGs, lower crank sprocket, etc at that power level.
 

biminiLX

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‘11 block a good starting platform. Put some of the budget in fixing the biggest restriction, the lower intake.
With a Gen3 I’d assume 850rwhp very doable.
-J
 

GT500_012308

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cool will do when I look into that was thinking of going 9:1 ratio as well I know a lot of people are going 9.2 id do that if I was only corn but we will see as the build progresses just trying to plan all the stuff I need also need to get a DD which I needed anyway.
 

biminiLX

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Yes definitely get a DD or change your build expectations.
On compression I’d be going the opposite way to 9.5-10:1
Will feel better off boost and when on boost you’ll need good octane regardless. I personally hate 93 octane builds with all the octane options we have available.
If it’s straight 91/93 pump and no additives or meth or corn, just be happy with less power. Gotta pay to play.
-J
 

RBB

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Seeing that you live in pretty much the same area I do I'm guessing you don't have E85 readily available either? If you want to make the most of the build then get two tunes. Run your 93 tune on the street and get a race gas tune for the track. You will have to upgrade your fuel system to do this....I'm running a Fore return system with dual Walbro 400s and ID1000s. That should be more than sufficient for anything the Gen3 can put out on Gulf Mach 116.
 

RedVenom48

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Stick with the 11 block. Some highly regarded people in the industry think its one of the strongest blocks produced by or for Ford. 11-12 were produced in Germany by Honsul.

Factory pistons are Mahle Forged and honestly, its my belief that the stock powder rods are the limitation in these engines. You're goal of 850 is very attainable, and with new true forged rods, Id personally be hard pressed to think you need sleeves or a new block. Then again an inspection by a qualified builder who is familiar with these 11-12 engines should help you make the final call when the engine comes apart.

Do your due diligence and as much research as you can. Speak with as many people as you can. In researching what I needed for the goals on my '11, I was extremely fortunate to have talked with several of the big names in the modular community. These people took the time to take phone calls from dumpy little me and point me in the right direction for what I wanted out of my car.

For your goals, I dont think you need a lot done to the shortblock to reliably hit your goal, in my opinion. Biggest limitation is fuel both in delivery and quality. If corn (e85) isnt available like RBB states, talk to your tuner to see what he/she is comfortable with as far as power on 93 goes.
 

GT500_012308

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Thanks for the info. Yea trying to get as much covered as possible and be 100% sure on what I do. Also not over spend on shit I don't need. I do have corn available where I am and after building it I don't plan on driving it so much but I know I will anyway. Had a DD before and never drove it so sold it.

I only say 93 so I can drive it all over and not worry but if I am building might as well. My thing is its only a street car for fun on the road which I never do anyway and possibly a few track passes just to see what I run. So running corn and making close to 1000 is cool but no good for street.
 

RBB

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Thanks for the info. Yea trying to get as much covered as possible and be 100% sure on what I do. Also not over spend on shit I don't need. I do have corn available where I am and after building it I don't plan on driving it so much but I know I will anyway. Had a DD before and never drove it so sold it.

I only say 93 so I can drive it all over and not worry but if I am building might as well. My thing is its only a street car for fun on the road which I never do anyway and possibly a few track passes just to see what I run. So running corn and making close to 1000 is cool but no good for street.
Unless you plan on hitting the drag strip seriously then I wouldn't bother with E85 if you're trying to stay on a budget. I know some will disagree, but that's my opinion. You're going to make in the neighborhood of 800+ to the tire on a cammed Gen3 build with 93 octane, which is more than sufficient on the street. And if you just intend on the hitting the strip for a few passes once a year your ETs are going to suck anyways. It takes a substantial amount of seat time to put up good numbers.
 

69b302

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I am in the minority, but 850rwhp on 93 octane will be tough. Of course the dyno type/settings play a big part in the numbers they report.
 

RBB

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I am in the minority, but 850rwhp on 93 octane will be tough. Of course the dyno type/settings play a big part in the numbers they report.
I made 780 to the tire on a Mustang dyno last spring with a cammed 5.8 build using a stock Trinity TVS, twin 67 TB, and PMAS 120. With a Gen3, bigger TB and intake you're definitely over 800. Maybe not 850, but you're getting somewhat close.
 

RedVenom48

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Unless you plan on hitting the drag strip seriously then I wouldn't bother with E85 if you're trying to stay on a budget. I know some will disagree, but that's my opinion. You're going to make in the neighborhood of 800+ to the tire on a cammed Gen3 build with 93 octane, which is more than sufficient on the street. And if you just intend on the hitting the strip for a few passes once a year your ETs are going to suck anyways. It takes a substantial amount of seat time to put up good numbers.

My God, if I could forget the last time I was at the track I would. My TR6060 gave me 2 big middle fingers that night. ...which is why I have a pile of upgraded parts for it waiting to get installed haha.
 

RBB

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My God, if I could forget the last time I was at the track I would. My TR6060 gave me 2 big middle fingers that night. ...which is why I have a pile of upgraded parts for it waiting to get installed haha.
I hear ya man....an auto swap is always tempting. So much easier to consistently hit nice ETs, but boring as hell out on the street. A WOT box and MGW shifter will be your best bets if sticking with the TR6060. I feel the WOT box really helped me out as far as consistency goes. That said, I wouldn't run one without beefing up the timing components, which I know you're already aware of Ed.
 
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RedVenom48

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I hear ya man....an auto swap is always tempting. So much easier to consistently hit nice ETs, but boring as hell out on the street. A WOT box and MGW shifter will be your best bets if sticking with the TR6060. I feel the WOT box really helped me out as far as consistency goes. That said, I wouldn't run one without beefing up the timing components, which I know you're already aware of Ed.
For sure! Unfortunately, that bad night was with a WOT box and MGW. The trans was/is just in need of a rebuild with the synchros.

Almost there with the timing system and will be good to go for tear down. Im debating on going with the Accufab passenger tensioner and chains or just the Accufab chains with Cobra Engineering tensioner housing. Then some Shelby Mike primary chain arms them its time to pull the engine!
 

GT500_012308

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lol you guys are talking big power problems im over here talking baby numbers.

I def am not number chasing like I said I know that combo will make 800 or over ill be on a Gen3 but was gonna do 93 for ease of driving all over which I do but only local lol. Im saying if I ever wana drive a few hours away but at that point I could just switch back to 93 if running corn.

Thanks for the info tho guys def helps a lot
 

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