Broke cam sprocket bolt. What to expect?!

Badaz01

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Any of you guys have any experience with such a thing as mentioned in the title. I broke the bolt that goes to the cam sprocket and windowed my valve cover. I did it while at cruising speed and shut it down with in an 8th mile. At first I thought it was fuel pumps kinda acted like it was starving for fuel. So just kinda wondering before the tear down what may be in store broken pistons, bent valves …….. EE66662B-EC32-420A-8525-4FCE0D916FA3.jpegD7225A68-C762-4424-8B5C-DFE075BF3B0F.jpeg
 

hotcobra03

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I had a sprocket explode,,

Can't say what all happened,
I had just had heads at the shop for repairs.

I sent them in complete and got them back complete except they must of missed cam bolt,

I didn't think I should have checked them but they fixed it and covered new Gaskets and bolts.

I did all the labor so time was out of my pocket

Was any work done prior?
 

01yellercobra

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Is the chain still in one piece? I'd guess bent valves and probably some marks on the pistons. Generally pistons win in that fight.
 

5.0 Hatch

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Yikes. Hard to believe it didn't do any additional damage. was the sprocket and chain still on place?
 

Badaz01

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Yes sprocket was in the general area but loose. Chain as far as I can tell is in one piece. Taking car in Monday hopefully nothing to crazy just had oil pan to heads all completely rebuilt 5k miles ago.
 

5.0 Hatch

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Yes sprocket was in the general area but loose. Chain as far as I can tell is in one piece. Taking car in Monday hopefully nothing to crazy just had oil pan to heads all completely rebuilt 5k miles ago.
You might be okay if it's all intact. I would be concerned with what caused it to break in the first place.
 

hotcobra03

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Work 5k ago,,sound like something was missed.
Hopefully not the cam seizing up,

i had to pull oil pan to get missing pieces of sprocket,,

found it cracked 1 chain adjuster inside of it.

Adjuster between cams lost its white pads,

Reused the chain
Yes sprocket was in the general area but loose. Chain as far as I can tell is in one piece. Taking car in Monday hopefully nothing to crazy just had oil pan to heads all completely rebuilt 5k miles ago.
 

Badaz01

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Well until I get it tore down I’ll hope for the best but expect the worst. I’ll keep you all updated. Thanks for the input.
 

Badaz01

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Update***
Well so far it looks like just a couple bent valves. The valves that bent barely left a mark on the two pistons. Little metal in the oil pan but hopefully that won’t cause any big issues.
 

5.0 Hatch

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Update***
Well so far it looks like just a couple bent valves. The valves that bent barely left a mark on the two pistons. Little metal in the oil pan but hopefully that won’t cause any big issues.
Great news... So what happened?
 

Badaz01

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Well it’s off to the machine shop with my heads and block. I figure we’ve came this far might as well re ring it while it’s out. Maybe I should re open my build thread lol.
 

Badaz01

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Well I guess it’s back to the drawing board again. Turns out I have a hurt piston in cylinder 5. Broken ringland. So now is the decision of how much do I want to drop my compression. I had flat tops in there now but I’m thinking of going atleast -6 cc. Any thoughts on that ? Oh and my driver side bank was running leaner than my passenger. My mechanic said he has never seen it that far off before. Kinda confusing to me being the afr looked good on the dyno. I guess maybe we’ll have to richen it up across the board idk what would cause one side and not the other to do that.
 

5.0 Hatch

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Well I guess it’s back to the drawing board again. Turns out I have a hurt piston in cylinder 5. Broken ringland. So now is the decision of how much do I want to drop my compression. I had flat tops in there now but I’m thinking of going atleast -6 cc. Any thoughts on that ? Oh and my driver side bank was running leaner than my passenger. My mechanic said he has never seen it that far off before. Kinda confusing to me being the afr looked good on the dyno. I guess maybe we’ll have to richen it up across the board idk what would cause one side and not the other to do that.
I hate to read this. Id personally do a coyote swap at this point due to having no confidence in any engine builders in my area being able to build a modular correctly.

I actually chose to go with an aviator long block in my car over building my 01.
 

Badaz01

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I hate to read this. Id personally do a coyote swap at this point due to having no confidence in any engine builders in my area being able to build a modular correctly.

I actually chose to go with an aviator long block in my car over building my 01.
The bearings looked great I’m assuming a tuning issue of some sort or maybe poor quality fuel idk. The coyote swap idea has definitely been in my wheel house. I could sell the procharger and fund a decent chunk of it.
 

Badaz01

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Well I guess it’s back to the drawing board again. Turns out I have a hurt piston in cylinder 5. Broken ringland. So now is the decision of how much do I want to drop my compression. I had flat tops in there now but I’m thinking of going atleast -6 cc. Any thoughts on that ? Oh and my driver side bank was running leaner than my passenger. My mechanic said he has never seen it that far off before. Kinda confusing to me being the afr looked good on the dyno. I guess maybe we’ll have to richen it up across the board idk what would cause one side and not the other to do that.
No body!?!?
 

Badaz01

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How’s the fuel system lines routed? Maybe have the injectors cleaned and flowed
It’s a return style system. My tuner talked about maybe fattening the tune up just a smidge to see if that balances both sides out. I may have to look into the injectors. I have id1050’s in now.
 

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