Break in for the Aluminator 11:1?

[2014Mustang5oh]

Wondering if you had to break the motor in or not? And if so what's the quickest and easiest way to do so. Im on a tight schedule to get this done before the half mile event in Sep. Thanks

 

[Tx5.0]

Drive it for 500 then get on it!

 

[2014Mustang5oh]

Drive it for 500 then get on it!

Cool. Thanks alot

 

[CPRsm]

Strap to Dyno and make multiple pulls. Done
Lol

 

[nosscort]

I would do a couple heat cycles with it.. change oil and strap her down and make some hits

 

[cb900f]

Strap to Dyno and make multiple pulls. Done
Lol

This... Break those rings in ASAP.

 

[2014Mustang5oh]

Not sure if serious

 

[JTS_7]

There are various methods/theory's out there for "breaking in" motors. Pick one and use it.......

Google search will give you many results.

 

[Mach828]

As long as it takes you to find an open road to floor it for a full pull through the gears.

 

[AKDMB]

Do you guys like to prime your crate motors before fireup? I've heard this isn't necessary since they ship with oil already inside. If so, how?

 

[2014Mustang5oh]

Do you guys like to prime your crate motors before fireup? I've heard this isn't necessary since they ship with oil already inside. If so, how?

I dont think they ship with oil in them

 

[AKDMB]

I dont think they ship with oil in them

My normal 5.0 coyote Crate Motor did, it's not an aluminator though.

 

[Tx5.0]

They ship with maybe 1 quart of oil in it. You can always manually turn the crank if you want some oil to get around.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Amsoil break in oil works the best, put about 50 mild miles with some bursts in between, then change it, you'll be fine!

 

[DrTriton]

No need to prime the Aluminators, they are all tested with oil in the pan then drained before shipment.

Search youtube for "Ford Racing Aluminator" to see the whole process.

 

[NxCoupe]

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is the best engine break in thread I've ever read. He has done all the research and documentation to back up his claims.
Every engine I install goes from the rack straight onto the dyno, I put a 20% load on the brake and make 3k to 6k pulls and then let it slowly decel to 3k then hit it again. I do this several times. Then let it cool, ck fluids and do it 5 or 6 times. I keep this cycle up till I get 15 to 20 hard pulls/decels on it. Then change the oil and its ready to be driven. Leakdowns are always very low with this method as ring seal is optimized.

 

[2014Mustang5oh]

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is the best engine break in thread I've ever read. He has done all the research and documentation to back up his claims.
Every engine I install goes from the rack straight onto the dyno, I put a 20% load on the brake and make 3k to 6k pulls and then let it slowly decel to 3k then hit it again. I do this several times. Then let it cool, ck fluids and do it 5 or 6 times. I keep this cycle up till I get 15 to 20 hard pulls/decels on it. Then change the oil and its ready to be driven. Leakdowns are always very low with this method as ring seal is optimized.

This makes sense but makes me nervous

One reason is my motor is NA and I have a blower on it. That cant be easy on unsealed rings to seal, can it?

 

[VENOM_TT302]

I was at the track the same day I installed the aluminator with 6 psi

 

[RAZRS EDGE]

If your block was prepared properly, honed with correct torque plates and correct ring placement/gaps there is not much break in. Run mineral oil for at least the first 1500 miles and run high engine loads for short periods of time. You want the cylinder pressure to push the rings against the cylinder and wear them in. If you pussy foot it they will buff the walls and never break in. Start it, bring up to temp/check oil pressure/no leaks/etc, beat the shit out of it.

 

[WIPLASH1]

Should you not do a crank relearn before beating on it, especially on a power adder car?